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There must be a short circuit inside the VOM. If you can open it up easily, check all the wires for short circuits, especially the wires that connect up to the function switch.
The charger is a 24v 4 amp one stage device. Its an incredibly cheap charger. It consists of a step down transformer, a bridge rectifier, a filer capacitor, and a voltage regulator. Virtually all chargers are made this way. Generic schematics
I would get out my trusty multimeter and chase 24v though the device.
You may need a VOM meter only $9
http://www.amazon.com/Mastech-YG188-Pocket-size-analog-multimeter/dp/B00064CH6A/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1339024102&sr=1-8
Set the meter to read VAC, you should get 30VAC out of the transformer. Next check the rectifier section, Set the meter to read VDC, the output should be about 29VDC. There is a fuse in there that you can check out. Then there is the regulator, if any part of that is fried, you're going to have a hard time finding parts. i really miss the 60's when there were electronic stores on every corner. There used to be a time when you could order your your TV as a kit. You could literally teach your kids something useful at the kitchen table. Quite frankly a 2 amp charger cost $14 4 amp cost $28. Not worth fixing really.
Chargers can be found here http://www.amazon.com/Electric-Scooter-Battery-Charger-Prong/dp/B001GMTKN4
Set the VOM on a DC voltage range to read from 0 to 15 volts.
Connect the VOM from the battery positive post to the Self-Test Output pin
of the large Data Link Connector (DLC) (Figure 3).
Connect the timing light.
Using the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL)
No special equipment hookup is required. STI is jumpered to SIG RTN at
Self-Test Input (STI) connector and the Data Link Connector (DLC).
I need the schematic diagram of Hioki 3030-10 Analog MultiMeter VOM.
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