Unit has developed a continuous leak

Question edited for clarity.

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Excessive air pressure...if your safety valve is truely popping off, is caused by a bad pressure switch or a loose wire connection at the switch. It's a little odd to be leaking too. There is a couple a possibilities here. The most common spots for leakage is the "tube seal", the aluminum transfer/supply tube, or the outlet air hose. Usually a leak will keep a unit from acheiving full pressure causing the unit ot run continuously. The other common leakage spot is the "check valve" and a leak here usually makes the auto restart (upon using air from the tank, taking pressure below the set lower limit), not work,stalling the motor and popping a breaker. See ereplacementparts for a proper breakdown and identification of parts. Spliting the clamshell is a "pain in the neck" for these little units, but you"ll likely have to do that to find your internal leak. Carefully avoiding electrically exposed parts, spray a soapy water solution at suspected joints if the leak is not obvious.

You didn't state your model number but the only place I could find that has manuals for Clark air compressors is Clark Power Porducts UK at: www.clarkeservice.co.uk/product_manuals/air_compressors.shtml. Usually if you have an air leak at the pressure switch when the tank is full and after the motor shuts off it is indicative of a stuck or broken tank check valve. Sometimes they can be cleaned and will work for a while but more often than not they have to be replaced.

Hi.

The first part to check is drain system. Check the drain hose at the back and the drain filter attached to the pump. See article at the end for more detail.

Most machines' timer boards do an additional check on the lid switch before starting the spin part of the cycle. If the lid lock light is flashing and the machine does not spin the lid switch is probably defective.

The lid switch is tested jumping its contacts or reading Ohms at switch terminal. A two-terminals switch must read continuity (low impedance) when door is closed and must read open (infinity of Ohms) when door is open. If the switch is a three contacts, the third contact is called "heater". In that case there must be continuity between the three contacts with lid closed. If the model instead of a simple switch uses a wax motor, then the lock cannot be tested by jumping contacts. The lock motor must be tested reading Ohms and checking that impedance is the same as indicated in service manual.

If lid switch and drain system are OK, then the pressure switch must be tested.The pressure switch detects the water level and among other things determines when to advance the cycle to spin.

If all the above is OK, then the motor and motor control unit (if present) must be tested.

Please read the solution in the article below for more:

If you have no spin ...

You can find parts and diagrams for most appliances using the links listed on this page: Where do I find parts and diagrams for my appliance?

Regards.

Ginko

Hi.

The machine does not spin in consequence of the drain problem. The timer will not advance to spin until the pressure switch detects that the drain part of the cycle is complete.

Common faults causing the problem are drain lines blockage and faulty pressure switch. Sometimes the pressure switch can be unlocked by cleaning the tube attached to the switch or blowing into the tube.

See:My washing machine does not drain.

To find parts and diagrams for your appliance see:Where do I find parts and diagrams?

If you need to contact a qualified technician ring the number listed on the owners manuals or see:How to get in contact with a qualified technician?

Regards.

Ginko.

Hi.

The machine does not spin in consequence of the drain problem. The timer will not advance to spin until the pressure switch detects that the drain part of the cycle is complete.

Common faults causing the problem are drain lines blockage and faulty pressure switch. Sometimes the pressure switch can be unlocked by cleaning the tube attached to the switch or blowing into the tube.

See:My washing machine does not drain.

To find parts and diagrams for your appliance see:Where do I find parts and diagrams?

If you need to contact a qualified technician ring the number listed on the owners manuals or see:How to get in contact with a qualified technician?

Regards.

Ginko.

Is the washer leaking on the floor? Or is it continuing to fill while the cycle is running or when its not in use?

If the water simply continues to run and won't shut off, this may be caused by a pressure switch malfunction or a water inlet valve that is leaking by. The following link explains how you can determine which one may be causing your problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3753262-front_load_washer_fills_when_not_in_use

Check the small air hose that runs from the bottom right hand side of the wash tub to the pressure swtich. If this hose has come loose from the pressure switch from the air dome on the wash tub, the pressure switch will not sense the pressure differential coming from the wash tub as the unit fills. Also, if the air hose is cracked, ripped, split, or clogged somewhere, you will get the same symptoms.

If the water inlet valve is determined to be the source of your problem, follow the steps provided in the link on how to replace one. These are simple and inexpensive repairs. I've also included web sources that you can refer to for part numbers.


If the washer is leaking on the floor, you will need to remove the exterior washer case on this model washer In order to properly diagnose the source of your problem. Its not as difficult as it seems. The following link explains step-by-step how to inspect a top loader for leakage:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576648-washer_leak__top_loader

Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased on line at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancpartspros.com
repairclinic.com

Prices can vary between these sites, so shop and compare. The first three sites on the list also include helpful exploded view diagrams to assist you in locating and identifying the parts you need.

If you have any questions about this repair, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

Leaks at the pressure switch are usually associated with the unloader valve due to leaking checkvalve at the tank. To determine the faulty part requires a couple of tests. Run compressor till it shuts off and is full of air then unplug the unit. Spray soapy water or (windex) around the base of the pressure switch to find where air is leaking from. There is a rubber diaphragm incorporated into the base of the pressure switch that may develop leaks. If the base is leaking check for loose parts or screws. If the air is leaking from a valve that looks like a tire stem, then leak is a result of faulty check valve in tank. Follow the 1/4 tubing that is connected to the pressure switch down to the brass valve at the tank. This brass valve is not holding tank pressure causing leak at the pressure switch. Replace as neccessary. The pressure switch is expensive. Do not replace unless you have looked at checkvalve. A universal pressue switch can be and should be used to same money. The check valve need not be replaced with exact replacement. Universal parts are available at www.grainger.com . Just match tubing and thread sizes and pressure range for the switch. Good Luck on your project and email if you have more questions. Please wait for the soapy water or windex to dry before you plug in the unit.

This problem is usually attributed to a pressure switch problem. The pressure switch is located under the operator console behind the load size or water level knob. This controls the fill level of the wash tub and shuts off the water inlet valve when it reaches the appropriate level. The pressure switch usually has an electrical connection and a small air hose attached to it. In some cases you may not have a defective switch at all. The air hose can come loose and fall off, or develop air leaks. Check the air hose to ensure it is properly connected to the pressure switch. If it is not, it can easily be reconnected. To prevent it from slipping off again, place a small zip tie around the hose at the point where it connects to the switch. DO NOT over-tighten as you may damage the small pressure switch fitting. Just make it snug enough to keep the hose from slipping off. If the hose is still attached, check the entire length of hose from the switch to where it connects to the wash tub for any splits, cracks, or holes. If you do not have an air hose problem, check the electrical connections to make sure the connector tabs are not corroded and you do not have any broken wires. If you have checked all the preliminary items, and still have problems, replace your pressure switch. If you post back with your complete model number it would help in providing part numbers if needed. I hope this helps you.

check out www.pressureparts.com