The compressor would try to cycle on whlie making high frequency metal toggling noise for about 10 sencond then a louder click ends the rattling noise. fans work fine. It will try again about every 5 minutes and the same thing happen again. I have replaced the start relay and capacitor ($65 for both parts) but the problem remains the same. I need more information to decied if changing the overload part ($40) would make any difference or it may be the compressor is at fault? I checked the 3 pins at compressor for open or short to ground and did not see any. How does the overload work? Since it cycles off after ~ 10 seconds trial, does it mean the overload part is working? Please advice!
I agree with Brian on the above answer about it being locked up. Take an amp reading within the few seconds the compressor is trying to start. If it is high (15 amps and up) the compressor could be bad. One option prior to compressor replacement would be a 3 in 1 hard start relay. This has the overload, relay and capacitor built in. It ramps up power sometimes more than what it is existing. If this does not work then the compressor needs replacement and you would need a qualified service technician to replace it.
The Compressor sounds like it has run out of refrigerant gas.
The gas acts a lunricant for the pump as well as removing the heat from the fridge.
See if you can match what i say below to your problem.
Start fridge or set to cold .
The comprssor starts and sound ok for 30 seconds , then starts to sound like it pumping a small creature thats covered in metal aound a pipe ( no small creatures were hurt in creating this answer)
It then shuts down
If so , the refrigerant is collecting at the bottom , in the compressor as it should , once the compressor starts it pumps its liquid to the fridge under pressure (as it should)
As it pumps, the liquid level lowers in the comprssor and the pump is now effectively pumping without any lubricant (oil in the refrigernat ) . The safety valve should cut in and stop the compressor befor it damages itself.
The only solution , if this is what your issue it, it to have the unit regassed by a expert. please note - i think its toxic and most companies have penalties for releasing refrigerant in the atmosphere . But the italic part of this you need to verfiy locally
It sounds like the compressor is locked (seized). The current overload is doing it's job by opening the circuit. Take a current reading, on the common leg, while the compressor is trying to start. The locked rotor amps (LRA) for that compressor will be indicated on the compressor tag. If it's drawing LRA while trying to start, you need a new compressor. Which is the costliest part in that unit and requires specialty tools to replace.
SOURCE: Kenmore
when its running how hot are the sides the starting amps are too high and 1.5 running amps ain't bad now the the cut in cut out are too high if you look on the dial that the mid point settings that's where you should have it not on 1 1 is hot set it on the straight line that's where you should do all your testing colder settings go up not down you could be overheating the compressor by making it come on too quick the freezer should be about -10 or so do you see any gaps in the gasket
SOURCE: Kenmore Upright Freezer Works Sometime
try a new start relay and overload kit specifically for the make and model freezer you are working on. if compressor can be seen ,the numbers on it can be used to get correct oem start cap, relay ,and overload. if your unit is having starting problems that will usually fix it. if however, the stat is failing to bring it on a new stat is called for. but it sounds like it is having starting problems since you said it was off a long while then still struggled on the overload to start then finally did. if the new start components don't work then new freezer time. compressor replacement is to expensive anymore. good luck
SOURCE: freezer fan on compressor off
They make generic "compressor packs" to solve these. Your capacitors and relay and parts that support the compressor operation went out.
If you're really really like just the temp overload switch went and you can jumper bypass it. It usually looks like a piezo electric type of disc connected right onto the comp case itself.
But you're right with the DT, the motors go out on them a lot. They are usually for 4/6/10/12 hours depending on make and model. Sometimes the contacts go So if you could isolate them... they're on the larger side and will go from the power to the compressor. Use a jumper and test for a complete circuit to the plug and through the compressor before trying it.
By law all freezers and ovens have to have a schematic diagram on them. Often it it in a little plastic package and sometimes just wallpapered to the inside of a large piece of sheetmetal in back.
Good that you know how to use a meter!
SOURCE: Freezer quit (Kenmore Upright)
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Good Afternoon friend, thank you for your post!
I see that your Frigidaire freezer is making noise and you have recently defrosted it, but your freezer is still making the noise. Your freezer will make certain noises which are normal operating noises for the freezer.
The compressor is a high efficiency so you may hear it during start up and while running. Additionally, refrigerant circulating through your freezer can make a tapping sound or even a gurgling noise. I hope this has been helpful. -Matt
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