Need Parts diagram fo 25 H.P. yamaha lower unit

Exactly which driveshaft do you mean? The one that goes front to back, (prop shaft), or the driveshaft going to the actual wheel?
If you are going to remove any of the drive/prop shafts you will need to drain the transmission oil. This will stop it dribbling all over the floor when the shaft comes out of the transmission! REMEMBER to Refill the Transmission BEFORE you drive it!
The 'prop shaft' is the easier of the two to remove BUT they are VERY heavy so have someone help. One end is fastened to the Differential flange with 4 bolts, the other sliding on a splined shaft at the transmission end.
Driveshafts to the wheel are a lot more work. You have to strip the lower half of the suspension to get the shaft out and the 'castle nut' at the hub end can be very tightly fitted.

no engine stated, they even have diesel. or 3.7L GAS.
I toss my first coil, land on 3.7L V6.
great question, like the very first ever.
most just do it and get in trouble. vast posts in this.
but whats up, what is wrong, what part failed.?
this is best to know, so we can send you the official chapter on this from jeep.
sure use jackstands, never jacks only and never bricks .
04,KJ jeep 4wd pan off.
in chapter 9 ,under diagnostics, and pan leaks. that?
it says read
Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN -
REMOVAL). page 1555 (3.7L)
and i quote:
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect and isolate negative battery cable.
2. Install engine support fixture.
3. Raise and support vehicle.
4. Remove front wheel assemblies.
5. Remove skid plate (if equipped). (Refer to 13 -
FRAME & BUMPERS/FRAME/FRONT SKID
PLATE - REMOVAL)
6. Drain engine oil.
7. Mark adjustment cam position of front lower control
arm bolts.
8. Remove front lower control arm bolts. (Refer to 2 -
SUSPENSION/FRONT/LOWER CONTROL ARM -
REMOVAL)
9. Disconnect LH tie rod. (Refer to 19 - STEERING/
LINKAGE/TIE ROD END - REMOVAL)
10. Disconnect LH lower ball joint (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/
FRONT/LOWER BALL JOINT -
REMOVAL)
11. Disconnect LH strut clevis (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/
FRONT/CLEVIS BRACKET - REMOVAL)
12. Remove LH front axle (Refer to 3 - DIFFERENTIAL
& DRIVELINE/HALF SHAFT - REMOVAL)
13. Remove front axle brace bolts.
14. Remove front prop shaft. (Refer to 3 - DIFFERENTIAL
& DRIVELINE/PROPELLER SHAFT/
PROPELLER SHAFT - REMOVAL)
15. Drain front axle.
16. Using a transmission jack, support front axle.
17. Remove axle bracket bolts. (Refer to 3 - DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE/FRONT AXLE - REMOVAL)
18. With RH axle still in place, remove front differential.
19. Remove transmission oil cooler line bracket.
20. Remove engine to transmission stiffening bracket.
21. Position Special Tool 8534 on fender lip and align the slots in the brackets with the fender mounting holes.
22. Secure brackets to the fender using four M6 X 1.0 X 25 MM flanged cap screws.
23. Tighten the thumbscrews to secure the sleeves to the support tube.
24. Secure the support tube in an upright position.
25. Assemble the flat washer, thrust bearing, hook and T handle.
26. Using the M10 X 1.75 mm flanged nut supplied with the support fixture, secure the chain to the front engine
lifting stud.
27. Loosen engine mounts.
28. Remove oil pan bolts.
29. Seperate oil pan (1) from engine.
30. Move oil pan to one side, remove oils sump bolt and windage tray bolts,
NOTE: Do not pry on oil pan or oil pan gasket. Gasket is integral to engine windage tray and does not come
out with oil pan.
end quote, (off)

drive shafts are normally flange mounted and have 4 bolts that bolt the flanges together. Undo the bolts and slide the shaft along the spline to get it off the flange ( may need a lever to break the hold of the flange)

Take The Propeller Off,
Use The Rear Thrust Washer As a Tool Turn It Upside Down And Put It Back On The Prop Shaft The Three Slots Should Match With Bearing Carrier.,Undo Three Bolts On The Carrier In The Back Of Gear Box,
Turn Carrier Counter Clock Wise Until It Is Loose Remove Prop Shaft Complete With Carrier and Reverse Gear

the bolts around the bottom and the gearchange under the engine ,then it should drop down providing that the drive shaft spline isnt corroded into the bottom of the crankshaft

The torque convertor is the part between the engine and the transmission. It is bolted to the "flex plate", or flywheel. You have to remove the engine or the transmission to gain access to it.

Remove or disconnect the following:

Battery cables Battery and tray Breather tube Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor Intake tube and air cleaner cover Air cleaner assembly Transmission Range (TR) sensor Heated Oxygen (H0 2 S) sensors Transmission harness connector and bracket Wire harness bracket spacer and move the bracket aside Shift cable Shift cable bracket and move the bracket aside Starter electrical connectors Starter Electrical connectors from the valve cover and install an engine support bar Upper transmission retaining bolts Left side upper transmission mounting plate Rear transmission mount Right side engine mount bolt and slightly raise the engine Both front wheels and splash shields Right side halfshaft and intermediate shaft assembly after matchmarking them Cross brace Center exhaust pipe and rubber hanger Front exhaust pipe and flange Rear exhaust pipe flange Driveshaft PTU vent tube Lower transmission bracket Access cover Flexplate nuts Output Shaft Speed (OSS) sensor Turbine Shaft Speed (TSS) sensor Fluid cooler tube and move it aside Fluid cooler line and install a transmission jack Bolts from the PTU unit Transmission with the PTU unit attached

The ring gear is bolted to what is called a ring gear carrier, the carrier is bolted inside the rear end housing with two bolts on each side, it is shimmed on each side to adjust backlash and pinion depth so DON'T mix up the left and right carrier shims, once the carrier is out with the ring gear attached you can remove the pinion shaft and drive out the bearing races of the pinion bearings. You also need to remove the pinion flange where the drive shaft U-Joint attaches, just hammer it off with a brass faced hammer (a steel hammer will run the flange) once the large center nut is removed.

In the leg, undo the gear link and undo the bolts that hold the lower half of the leg on, they are above the water intake pointing up, don't forget the bolt neat the prop. Wiggle the leg off and put it on the bench. The drive shaft protrudes from the center of the water pump housing, remove the bolts and slide the housing off. When you replace the impeller make sure the fins are folded in the correct direction to avoid pinching. Be sure to align the water cooling pipes when reassembling the leg.

Cheers, Timo

Prop shaft. You have to remove the bearing housing cap. reference number 70. Remove the bearing housing. reference number 60. The bearing housing will need to be pulled out buy using a puller. If it was in salt water it can be difficult. Pull the prop shaft and clutch dog assembly.

Gear cases are easy to take apart with the proper tools.I suggest buying a Clymer Manuel. it has a list of special tools. TEAR DOWN PROCEDURE(1) remove the propeller shaft bearing carrier assembly by removing the carrier ring. takes a special tool. (2)the bearing carrier depending on the running condition will become stuck in the gear case. there is a special tool for removing the bearing carrier out of the gear case.(3) the bearing carrier houses the reverse gear make sure the reverse gear was removed when the bearing carrier came out. (4)look inside of gear case you will see the propshaft assembly, drive shaft with pinion gear assembly, and the forward gear.(5) on the drive shaft pinion gear you will see a nut. there is a close clearance between that nut and the clutch dog on the propshaft assembly. it takes a special wrench to get this nut off plus a spline tool to hold the drive shaft as your turning the nut off. you can make them both but be careful.(6) there are two different styles for this model of stern drive a "R" and a "MR" the "MR" drive has a retaining nut for bearing preload for the drive shaft. need special tool to remove it. the "R" drive has a spring loaded pin on the top of the driveshaft to control bearing preload. no special tool need to remove shaft after pinion nut removal.(7) once the driveshaft is removed the propshaft comes out by lining up the shift shaft just right. (8) turn the shift shaft until the shift crank is at a right angle to the propeller shaft. you can't see the shift crank because it is behind the forward gear you have to go by experience or feel. once you have the shift crank lined up properly push the propshaft to the left side of the gear case housing then pull out at that angle. GOAL propshaft "clutch dog actuating shaft" in basic terms, is like a hook that grabs onto the shift crank. you unhook it by moving the propshaft tip to the side, causing the back of the propshaft inside the housing, to unhook and move away the the shift crank. it sounds complicated but once you do it you see how easy it is.(9) once you have the propshaft and the forward gear out you can leave the shift shaft inside.there is no need to remove it. have fun