Where does the 2 wires connect running from the coil?

If you cant get to the wire. Can you splice in be fore the coils! God-Bless!

Hi Chris
I am not familiar with your particular vehicle. But...
The main reason that an ignition coil would fail is through an open circuit in the primary winding. (Use the ohms section of a multimeter to check for continuity) Now, the only way you can open circuit the primary winding is to burn out the primary winding.
Considering that this connects to 12 volts via the "points" or "contacts". There isn't much to go wrong.
So.... Here's what I think is happening.
From my old auto electrics background.... A coil connects to the vehicles 12 ignition circuit via a special nichrome wire (often inside the wiring harness) This Nichrome wire acts as a Resistor before the 12v current reaches the Coil's Primary winding. This cuts down the current when the the ignition key is in the running mode. When you start the vehicle, the full 12v current bypasses the resistor to give to a BOOST while starting the vehicle. When the key returns to the Running position the coil is being supplied by the resistance wire so the current is reduced.
Note: There would have been 2 wires connected to the Coil originally. One is 12v from ignition switch "run" position and one from ignition switch "start" position.
If you have wired the vehicle different than the original wiring or have used a different wire then you may actually be running the vehicle directly on 12v from the ignition/battery. This would eventually burn out your coil.
If necessary, add a resistor (large wire wound, ceramic), to the circuit. Purchase or make your own.... once you know how many ohms you require to reduce the current.
Hope this solves your problem. Pitty you have paid for 3 coils before finding out.

Cheers

No the coil wouldn't be the first place i would look This could olny be coused be total fuel shut down or total electrical failure at ignition.Check fuse #10 infuse box its the ecm ignitionpower main fuse this is cirrcut 439its a pink wire that runs to the the icm ignition cortrol module witch is bolted to the coil and has terminals A D B and C the coil has C A B With a mulitmeter check across on an ohms scale and the ignition on engne not running check A and B on the ICM you should have a connection them check between B and C you should have a connection if you do them check between D on the ICM and the coil main output wire on the you should have a connection with some restance if not try B on the coil and the main coil output wire you should have a connection with some restance If you have no connection on the ICM between A B or A C or B C then the ICM is bad if you have no connection between D on the ICM and B on the coil terminal or the coil main wire then the coil is bad I hope this didn't get to confuseing but if you follow it slowly you can diagnoss this

IF the photocell is indeed 120vac and only has two connections and you wish it to control a separate contactor that controls something else and if the contactor coil is 120vac and has N.O. (aka normally open) contacts and you are controlling something that runs on 120vac, this is what you do.
Connect the hot/black wire of the incoming power and run it to one side of the Pcell and take another piece of black wire and run it from the other side of the Pcell to one side of the coil on the contactor. Wire the other side of the contactor coil to the neutral/white incoming wire.
What ever it is that you want to control goes on the contacts of the contactor. Hot/black incoming power connects to one side of a set of the contacts on the contactor. Take another black wire and go to the coil/motor/light whatever you want to control. The other side of whatever you want to control goes to neutral/white. Ground as necessary.
You can jumper from place to place to get what you need, ie the hot/black incoming at the Pcell can be jumped to the contact. White/neutral on one side of the contactor coil can be jumped to what you are controlling.

Here's what will happen when wired properly.
Nothing is running. The Pcell detects light and acts as a switch to connect hot/black to the coil of the contactor. The contactor closes because one side of the coil now has a hot wire and the other side has a neutral and the circuit is completed thru the coil. The contact's closing feeds a hot connection to the coil/motor/light (aka the load). Because the other side of the load has a neutral/white wire connection -
It runs.

It is your responsibility to not get killed or burn down the place if you don't have the skills to do this.

The Black wire will connect to body ground, and it should be a good solid ground and if this wire is not grounded well then you might receive a primary voltage shock if you touch anything that is metal or grounded inside of the vehicle when the engine is running.

The Red wire should be connected to power when the key is in the "Run" position only, and a good place to find that source is one of the "IGN" connections at the fuse panel using a covered female spade connector. Use a test light and be certain that the connection only has power when the key is in the "Run" position, and has no power when the key is in the "Off" or "Accessory" position.

The White or Yellow wire should connect to the "LPS" connection at the fuse panel next to the LPS fuse using a covered female spade connector.

The Green wire will connect to the "-" negative side of the ignition coil or to the "Tach" or "Test" lead that runs from the negative side of the ignition coil. To locate the lead run down the wire from the negative side of the ignition coil and the lead should break off from that wire and it should have a tag on the wire that will say either "Tach" or "Test" (sometimes it is just an empty black wire connector) and that is if the lead does not come straight off from the wire connector at the ignition coil. If there is no lead you can get a wire tap connector to tap into the wire from the negative side of the ignition coil and then use a covered male spade connector to connect the Green wire from the tachometer to the wire tap connector.

Here is a diagram to help assist you and if you can not download the image right click on the image and then select "save picture as..." or "save image as..." and from your image viewer you should be able to read this diagram or print it out, and let me know if you require any further assistance.

The Black wire will connect to body ground, and it should be a good solid ground and if this wire is not grounded well then you might receive a primary voltage shock if you touch anything that is metal or grounded inside of the vehicle when the engine is running.

The Red wire should be connected to power when the key is in the "Run" position only, and a good place to find that source is one of the "IGN" connections at the fuse panel using a covered female spade connector. Use a test light and be certain that the connection only has power when the key is in the "Run" position, and has no power when the key is in the "Off" or "Accy" position.

The White or Yellow wire should connect to the "LPS" connection at the fuse panel next to the LPS fuse using a covered female spade connector.

The Green wire will connect to the "-" negative side of the ignition coil or the primary side of the ignition coil, and for later model GM HEI equipped vehicles this will be the "Tach" connection next to the main "Bat" connection on the distributor cap if the ignition coil is mounted inside of the distributor cap, or to the "Tach" or "Test" lead that runs from the negative side of the ignition coil if the ignition coil is mounted separate from the distributor. To locate the lead run down the wire from the negative side of the ignition coil and the lead should break off from that wire and it should have a tag on the wire that will say either "Tach" or "Test" (sometimes it is just an empty black wire connector) and that is if the lead does not come straight off from the wire connector at the ignition coil. If there is no lead you can get a wire tap connector to tap into the wire from the negative side of the ignition coil and then use a covered male spade connector to connect the Green wire from the tachometer to the wire tap connector.

Here is a diagram to help assist you although it might be hard to make it out, and let me know if you require any further assistance.

check with inline spark tester between the coil and the plug wires for fire. also check the sparkplugs for a fouled out condition. if all checks out then check the coil with ohm meter. unplug the ignition wire connector from the coil. there should be 3 terminals on the coil. connect the ohm meter to the center pin and the other to either outside pin to check primary resistance. then using the ohm meter check the secondary resistance by connecting one end of ohm meter one tower on coil and the other end of ohm meter across to the opposite side of coil to check resistance. primary resistance--0.95- 1.20 ohms secondary resistance-- 11,300 to 13,300 ohms. if it does not check out then replace the coil.

Just wire one voice coil each into left and right rear respectively, in series with the original rears or if this is too quiet, wire both voice coils in parallel together and connect as per original single coil unit.

As they are 4ohms each they can simply be connected as simple speakers on each rear channel output, since thats exactly what they are, capacitors are used inside to make them react to bass frequencies only. Wiring them up is no different to wiring up a pair of 6x9's.

Contact points cover open.

Left side points are for cylinders 1 and 4.
Right side points are for cylinders 2 and 3

Left side points have a White wire coming from it.
Right side points have a Black wire coming from it.

One coil runs two cylinders.

One coil runs cylinders 1 and 4.
One coil runs cylinders 2 and 3.

No matter what style of ignition coil you use, the Black wire will connect to the Points. Whatever other color of wire they use, connects to the ignition switch.

BUT, check the specifications for the coils you're going to install. Connect the Negative side to the points. The Positive side to the ignition switch.

The Orange wire with a White stripe, coming out of the harness of the Suzuki Gs550 is from the ignition switch. It goes to a splice connector, and from there goes to two wires. The wires split off into one wire for each coil.

There is a White wire on the coil, that is used for Cylinders 1 and 4.
There is a Black wire on the coil, that is used for Cylinders 2 and 3.

you can run each sub at either 4ohms or 1ohm which means that two of them will run at either 2ohms or .5ohms....be careful how you wire them because most amps cannot handle .5ohms very well and might blow.....to wire them for 2ohms you will need to wire each sub the following way. they have two voice coils make a jumper wire connecting the negative on one coil to the positive on the other coil. what you are left with is a coil with an open positive and the other coil has an open negative. when both subs are wired like this connect the two positive terminals together (1 from each sub) and the two negative terminals together (1 from each sub) now the subs should be wired together at a 2ohm load. run the two positive wires into another combined wire which will run to the positive speaker terminal on the amp. do the same for the negatives