My microwave trips my circuit breaker when on a full power setting and cooking things like pop corn. I have to go and reset the breaker switch, wait a couple of minutes, then reset the clock. It is the only appliance on the circuit which has been checked by two seperate electricians who say the circuit is ok. This has been going on for years and my alternative has been not to use it except to warm up coffee. Thanks
SOURCE: khmc107b (not a bt): lost power, won't start again
The most likely causes are an open thermostat on your magnetron or the internal fuse. You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your base model number (without the suffix) here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383 The fuse is shown on diagram 5 and the thermostat on the magnetron is on diagram 8. If you or a friend decide to work on it, we have *critical* safety and disassembly info at our site, which is linked at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
SOURCE: Microwave beeping and F2 error code
hi,
The F2 code is a keyboard failure. Since it's intermittent I would check for a loose wire/connection. open the control panel and reset the ribbon cable on the circuit board....
thank you,
vijay (vote for me)
SOURCE: I've had my microwave for 8 years. No problems
Maybe. You can get a fuse here: http://www.amiparts.com//A33A673631FA4E01ABD536DEFEA76A01.asp?pcs_key=A31D300EB99A4D17A25D1D3529D26562
SOURCE: KitchenAid Microwave Model KCMS1555 does not work
Assuming your inside
light, turntable, and internal cooling fan all come on when you try to microwave, with the
symptoms you
have, I would most strongly suspect a shorted high voltage rectifier
diode or a bad magnetron, or a loose and possibly corroded connection
on the magnetron's terminal.
The diode is a fairly
cheap fix, and the mag will cost more.
If you or someone you
know
decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and
disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.
There
should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit
behind the
control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is
very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating
components.
At
our Web site, we have a video
available showing how to remove a typical
over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.
If you don't find your mini-manual,
or if you want to look at it before removing the controller, you can
download it here.
Here are some links you
or someone you know can use for test help, but read their safety
warnings first:
http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/diode.html
(if it's not shorted or burned, it's
probably okay)
http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/mag_test.html
http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/xformer.html
http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/cap_test.html
You can find links to helpful exploded
view diagrams and part ordering help
here. I recommend that you bookmark that
link to your favorites.
Accessing some
components for testing and possible replacement will require you to
remove the oven from the wall.
If
so, the installation instructions are very handy, and it's best to have
two people since the microwave can be heavy and awkward.
You can download owner's manuals
and installation instructions for several brands (including Amana, Jenn-Air,
Kitchenaid, Litton, Maytag, Roper, Tappan, Thermador and Whirlpool)
here.
If
it's within the magnetron portion of the warranty (usually 5-9 years)
but out of the original full warranty (usually 1 year), then your
manufacturer will cover the part cost, but not the cost to visit you (usually $75 -90) or
the labor charge to do the work(usually $75 -90 more) . See the model tag in or on the
unit for the date of manufacture.
If
nothing else, you can save about $75 by taking it to the shop yourself.
We're happy
to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating
of our answer.
SOURCE: I have a F6 error
F6 on these models means that the cook relay on the control circuit board is shorted, and it is cooking anytime the door is closed.
We
regularly repair such control units for customers nationwide by mail
for $39.95 postpaid with a one-year guarantee.
At
our Web site, we have a video
available showing how to remove a typical
over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.
If you prefer, you can buy a new circuit board (part number 8169733 for $150.27) from the Pros here.
They're our favorite supplier.
We're
happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful
rating of our answer.
If you find the fuse blown or circuit breaker tripped, unplug everything from the circuit to which the microwave is connected (keep in mind that other outlets may be fed from the same circuit). Replace the fuse or reset the circuit breaker. If the same thing happens again, you have a problem with the outlet or other wiring on the same branch circuit. If plugging in the microwave causes the fuse to blow or circuit breaker to trip immediately, there is a short circuit in the power cord or elsewhere.
The microwave oven may be powered from a GFCI outlet or downstream of one and the GFCI may have tripped. (Removing a broken oven lamp has been known to happen.) The GFCI outlet may not be in an obvious location but first check the countertop outlets. The tripped GFCI could be in the garage or almost anywhere else! Pushing the RESET button may be all that's needed.
Next, try to set the clock. With some ovens the screen will be totally blank following a power outage - there may be nothing wrong with it. Furthermore, some ovens will not allow you perform any cooking related actions until the clock is set to a valid time.
Assuming these are not your problems, a fuse has probably blown although a dead controller is a possibility.
While you can do some repairs on your microwave, what you don't know can kill you... even on an unplugged microwave, so make sure you understand the dangers and how to reduce them before you try anything inside a microwave. If you want to do more yourself, go to the link at the top of this post.
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