Dometic RM2852 will not turn on

The dometic recall requires the installation of a thermal fuse from the DC terminal block to the igniter,  Originally it was a solid wire connection, and the recall replaced this wire with a thermal fuse imbedded.  On my unit the installer placed the fused wire too close to the burner sheet metal and, viola, the fuse blew (being thermal).  Camping World found the problem in 5 minutes and repaired it in another 10 minutes. $107.00. 

Don't be confused (as I was); there is both a "thermal fuse" and a "thermal switch". The switch has a reset button in the middle of two contacts. The fuse is in-line and covered with a black material to protect it from heat. If the switch has tripped, it will reset when things cool off. If the fuse has blown, nothing works and you have to replace the fuse. (You could wire around it, if you're in the field, but I'm not taking any responsibility if you do so. If you do so, monitor the the fridge furnace to make sure it doesn't overheat.) (My fuse blew when I drove through 116 desert temperatures.)

Dometic has issue a recall kit that includes a new thermal blow fuse which is mounted on the burner tube enclosure. There is also a supplied wire that has a diode inline, if this diode goes bad it will not allow 12v current to flow through and in turn will shut the entire system down. First step is look behind the 6 x 9 sheet of metal to see the thermal fuse. It should be resettable. Push the button between the two terminals. If this does not fix the problem then you will have to have the wire with the diode replaced. If the new recall kit has not been installed then you need to see an authorized repair facility to have that work completed.

Most likely you have either a burned up heating element or a bad circuit board. Check the heating element by unplugging it from the board and checking the two wires, it should read zero ohms, then leave one meter leg on the elements wire and put the other on the actual element you should not have any connection at all (if it does have a connection between it it is shorting to ground which would explain popped fuse). Or you cant just plug the element into direct 110 power and see if it gets hot. If the heating element is good your main circuit board is probably bad the one up top inside almost never goes bad although it is possible.


Fridges between 1993-1996 generally had a problem circuit board. Take the black cover off the circuit board and if it is filled with yellow epoxy it is almost positively the circuit board.