At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
I have a GE electric range, model # JBP30AA2. On two occations, when the oven controls were set to bake, the broiler element came on. The first time it got so hot that it started my daughters muffins on fire. The display panel gave us an F2 code. The second time this happened, the broiler element got red hot again but would not go off until I turned the breaker off to the oven. After it cooled down, I turned the breaker back on and the broiler has stayed off. What could be my problem and what part do I need to repair it?
Whirlpool #GR465LXLS, baking element gets super hot,will not shut off until breaker is turned off. Whirlpool #GR465LXLS, baking element gets super hot,will not shut off until breaker is turned off.
I have a GE electric range, model # JBP63. When the oven controls were set to bake, the broiler element came on. It got red hot hot and would not go off until I turned the breaker off to the oven. The display panel gave us an F2 code. After it cooled down, I turned the breaker back on and the broiler has stayed on and would not go off until I turne the breaker off to the oven.. What could be my problem and what part do I need to repair it? Thank you
I have a GE electric range, model # JBP63. When
the oven controls were set to bake, the broiler element came on. It got red hot hot and would not go off until I
turned the breaker off to the oven.
The display panel gave us an F2 code. After it cooled down, I turned the
breaker back on and the broiler has stayed on and would not go off until I
turne the breaker off to the oven.. What could be my
problem and what part do I need to repair it? Thank you
You can't post conmments that contain an email address.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Hello. I looked carefully at the service manual for your unit--surprisingly, there is no thermal switch inline with the bake/broil elements. Usually, if the bake or broil elements pop, this blows out the thermal switch, killing power to the elements for safety. The main control board can get damaged due to the high current draw during a short-circuit. The part number for the main board is WB27T10008. The overlay(the decorative sticker with the button/names on it) numbers are as follows: almond WB27T10022, black WB27T10023, and white WB27T10021. I hope this helps you!
see the next steps and proceed according with commong sense: God bless you Usually,
when an oven won't broil, it's because the broiler element is burned
out. The broiler element in an electric oven is the black, pencil-thick
tube at the top of the oven. When the broiler is on, the element glows
red. This element has an expected life-span of several years. It may
last for only one; it may last for many more. When the element burns
out, you need to replace it. To determine if the heating element is
burned out, watch the part testing video at the bottom of thi
does the bake element come on at all? if so, try the oven out. do a bake @ 350 allow it to pre-heat, and see if once the pre-heat is comlete, id the broil shuts off. on many ovens at the beginning of the cycle during pre-heat both bake and broil elements are powered.
other than that it may be a control board, or a burnt and crossed wire in the harness.
I would be looking at the bake relay on teh coven control board. Using a voltage meter test the output voltage when energizing the bake feature. Be sure to remove the bake element wire coming from the bake element to the control. Test this terminal without the bake element wire attached. From the terminal with one meter probe to the neutral on the terminal block (where your cord attaches to), you should read 110 volts when energized and 0 voltge when shut off. What are you reading? If I can help further, I am here.....
Hi Jeff. You should have a wiring diagram with the range. Check for an envelope on the back of the range, inside the back splash, or taped to the inside side wall of the range if you remove the lower drawer. That all being said, first check to see if the start or stop time knobs on the timer have been pushed in (and possibly turned). If the clock runs, it will clear this out within 12 hours, but on these old ranges often times the clock no longer runs. Make sure these knobs are turned until they have "popped" out or you won't get the necessary voltage where you need it. Secondly, when a bake element burns out, it can cause damage to the electrical contacts in the oven selector switch (part number WB22X5122 ) which can be tested with an ohm meter if you can find the electrical diagram. Also, the oven thermostat (part number WB21X5320 ) can be damaged in the same way. Unfortunately, these parts for these old units are not very cheap.
The little bit of heat you are getting in your oven now is most likely only from the 120 volts going to the broiler element when in Bake. During Bake, your bake element should get 240 volts (until thermostat is satisfied). Setting to Broil should give 240 to the broil element.
Before you replace the range, I'd try replacing the oven temp sensor (part number
WB21T10007 ) which is rather inexpensive. If I were able to get my hands on your range I'd first test to see if the control is sending 240 volts to the bake element. We know there is 240 to the range because the burners and broiler work, but is the control sending the full 240 to the bake element ? The only way for you to know this is to use a meter and test the voltage across the terminals of the bake element when in bake. Of course you should also test the bake element with power off and at least one terminal disconnected to see if you have about 20 ohms resistance across the terminals and no resistance from a terminal to the frame of the range. If not, you may need a new bake element (part number
WB44T10010 )
Let me know if I can be of further assistance. Thanks for using fixya.
If this helps, a fixya rating would be appreciated. Thanks.
Sounds like the oven control which is the clock is bad. The relay for the bake element has probably gone bad and will need to replace the control. You should check continuity on the bake element. If it shows resistance then it is ok. Also, on some models the overlay for the oven control is a separate part. If it is you will need to buy it also.
My model # was in my original comment. JBP30AA2
Whirlpool #GR465LXLS, baking element gets super hot,will not shut off until breaker is turned off.
I have a GE electric range, model # JBP63. When
the oven controls were set to bake, the broiler element came on. It got red hot hot and would not go off until I
turned the breaker off to the oven.
The display panel gave us an F2 code. After it cooled down, I turned the
breaker back on and the broiler has stayed on and would not go off until I
turne the breaker off to the oven.. What could be my
problem and what part do I need to repair it? Thank you
×