No Heat on a whirlpool dryer. 14 years old.drum turns,timer moves,getting gas to valve,tapped solenoids-no change.burner not lighting. thanks for any info

Motor runs, but main burner will not ignite
1.heat switch set wrong---correct switch setting
2.defective timer or timer circuit---check timer wiring--replace timer motor or switch as needed
3.defective centrifugal switch in motor---clean switch or replace as needed
4.gas supply valve closed----open gas valve
5.inoperative solenoid coil---test coil for open circuit & the voltage to it
???
Pilot burner goes out
1.insufficient gas supply---- low gas pressure or clogged pilot filter or partially closed gas valve
2.carbon deposit on thermocouple tube---clean tube & check pilot burner for proper combustion
3.improperly adjusted pilot flame--adjust pilot flame until faint yellow tip begins to appear
4.faulty ignition or reset valve or thermocouple---replace

The burner is on the lower right side of the bottom under the drum. See this manual pdf page 23 for location and access. https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/4829abde74a34d7f85256ab000620794/$FILE/4322260.pdf

The burner uses an ignitor and a flame sensor vs a pilot light. See this link pages 12 - 14
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/c5c81d2c8f26b1b5852574f20055c20c/$FILE/4314010.pdf Note the M series burner has been in use since 1984.

The dryer must have a complete termperature circuit and no "high temp limit" failures for the ignitor to light. That means the door is closed, motor is running, and the cycle thermostat is less than 135 deg F and the High limit thermostat is less than 180 deg F just to provide power to the gas valve solenoids, ignitor, and radiant / flame sensor.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly.

Your power for the burner assy goes on a series circuit from the timer to the high-limit thermostat to the operating thermostat to the thermal fuse to the gas burner assy, thru the motor centrifugal switch to the door switch. EACH of these must be functioning for the burner to light.

This manual will help with some of the how to do it as far as component access, removal and replacement of parts.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/4829abde74a34d7f85256ab000620794

Also this link has loads of information on what to check.
http://fixitnow.com/wp/2006/09/19/how-to-check-the-burner-components-in-a-gas-dryer/

The 3 most common failures are
Igniter:
Gas Valve
High Limit Thermostat

Compnents : http://fixitnow.com/appliantology/gasdryer.htm

Note the LINKS!

Here is a 9 min video that pretty much covers everything you need to check: http://www.howcast.com/videos/371390-How-To-Troubleshoot-a-Gas-Dryer-That-Wont-Heat

Thanks fo choosing FixYa.

Kelly
The

If your dryer heats when you first turn it on and after a few minutes it does'nt. check the ignitor to see if it is glowing. It should glow bright then you will hear a click and the burner will light. If the ignitor glows bright but you hear a click but no flame and if you watch this for several minutes and this process continues of glow then glow goes out no flame, then you have a bad burner coil. There are 2 black solenoids sitting on top of gas valve. One of them is shorting out after it warms up. Replace both solenoids. You can usually get them as a kit from parts store.

First, check the ignitor. If it is working properly it should glow noticeably. If the ignitor is working and the burner will not light, I would look at the gas valve coils. These small black electrical coils are right above the gas valves. These solenoids open the gas valves when energized. If faulty, the gas valves are not opened and the burner cannot light. Due to the difficulty in testing these solenoids, it is recommended that both (all) be replaced at once if any are suspected of being faulty. Hope this helped and best wishes.

Check the gas valve in the back of the unit and also check the Glow ignitor to make sure that you are igniting the gas to heat the drum. Sounds more like it is the Glow ignitor that is bad

Ended up replacing the solenoids and the burner ignited, flame stayed on. Problem appears to be solved. Thanks for your help and posting.

The heat is regulated with a Klixon mounted next to the blower housing near the vent pipe so it can judge the temperature of the air coming out of the drum.Right next to it is a melting type fuse. If the dryer runs and gets too hot the fuse will melt.But the dryer will still run. So if the fuse is good(continuity) and the dryer control(cycle) thermostat is also good then you should have power going to the gas valve assembly when the machine is running unless the timer is in the no heat or wrinkle free/cool down mode. When the gas valve assembly is energized the flame sensor mounted outside the burner chamber detects the heat from the ignitor. When the heat is very intense then the sensor shuts down the ignitor and that frees up the power so that the coils can be fully energised and open the gas gates. The gas comes out and hits the red hot ignitor and you have ignition. It stays on for maybe 2 or 3 minutes or until the control thermostat is satisfied and shuts down power to the gas valve assembly.
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The gas burner assembly uses solenoid coils in a circuit with the flame sensor to safely ignite the burner. When the dryer starts a heated cycle, the circuit through those components is energized. The igniter glows until it reaches the proper temperature to ignite the gas, at which point the flame sensor trips open and the current flowing through that circuit is diverted to the gas valve coils so the gas valves open, and the burner lights and continues to burn. If the solenoid coils on the gas valves fail, the gas valves won't open for ignition. If the gas valve coils are weak, the burner lights during the initial ignition sequence from a cold start but it fails to light the burner on subsequent ignition attempts. In this situation, replace the valve coils. I Had the same problem with mine and I fixed for like $25.00 US. Its not hard to do look at the video. Either buy your part from them or to get it fast and not out of this world go to "repairclinic.com

My Kenmore 80 series (model 11072802100) has the same problem that it fires up first and then stop producing heat after a few minutes. It's also 7 years old. After a while, if I restart it, it will run and do the same thing. I found a thread of discussion on another forum that says that this can be the gas valve coil (solenoids) problem as these coils turn on and off the gas flow to the chamber. I'm going to check out the coils, but don't know where they are located (can't find the manual). If anyone has any idea, please share. Or I'll just tear off the top and back to see where they are.

Any gurus here to help? Thanks.