Vivitar 75-300mm lens

Try B&H Photo online to get adapters.

Haha!!
Maybe its something you're not doing, LOL.
Look on the side of the lens. Most of the 70-300 macros have a slide switch. My Tamron, for instance, needs to be zoomed out to 300, then slide the switch to Macro and its ok. Look for the slide switch. You might also notice lines of a different color to denote Macro.
Some days it too tough to be smarter than the lens,
LOL.

If the Vivitar has an FD mount for older Canons, then no, you'll need an adapter ring to convert the lens. They are available on sites like ebay

Put the macro adapter on the camera and move the camera in and out from an object to try to focus the object in the display. Remember, macro is very small, very close and very small field-of-focus. I hope this helps.

I will try to help you, but please understand that my experience is with Nikon film cameras. Assuming that the D60 works in a manner similar to a Nikon 35 mm body and that Sigma macro lens work like Nikon macro lens, you should be able to determine the usable subject to lens distance by experimentation. First, make sure the lens is in the macro mode. To do this you must set the auto-focus mode control to the manual focus mode (see your manual). On Nikon lenses, you must first set the focus ring to infinity, then move slider switch, which has two positions marked; "normal" and "macro., to the macro position. You should now be able to rotate the focus ring to the macro range. Use the zoom ring to zoom in and out and focus with the focus ring. The the range over which the lens to subject to lens distance will yield an in focus image will be rather limited and in the range of an inch or so to 6 or 8 inches.

I was focusing to close to the subject & too much glare from a church window.

I think the most prudent solution is to give up on the idea. What do you need that for? This lens already has a huge range of 28 .. 300 mm in film equivalents, and it is marginally useful at 300 mm. Whatever else you put on it will make it worse (less light, poor focus and aberrations). Similarly, at the wide end, while it is technically possible to add a wide-angle element to shorten the focal distance to about 20 mm, that will also result in a loss of light and poor peripheral focus, so you will be much better off taking 2-3 pictures and blending them whenever you need a wider angle. This lens is a miracle of optimization -- it already has the attachments you are contemplating, plus macro and super-macro. I don't think its range can be expanded any further without an unacceptable degradation of quality.

ivitar Entries

• 100/3.5 Macro, serial number 218434
• 135 mm f2.3 Series 1, serial number 2826606
• 19mm/38 lens for Contax/Yashica, serial number 94061957
• 28/2.8 lens, serial number 282 404 68
• 283, serial number 0032418 (PACK BATTERY)
• 283, no serial number provided
• 283, flash, no serial number provided
• 5600 Autothryistor TTL flash w/ Minolta module & standard head, serial number unknown
• 60 -300 AF zoom, serial number 77900979
• 70-210mm f3.5 series 1 f/Pentax, serial number 22002890
• 90-180 f:4.5 Series 1 Flat Field Zoom, serial number 3517730
• FD fit 19mm f3.8 lens, serial number 93110044
• FD fit 70-210 macro zoom Series II, serial number 09811287
• Series 1 28-90 for Canon FD, serial number 28612541

It will not focus on anything closer than 5 feet.

(From Sigma lens literature) Capable of macro photography, this lens has a 1:2 maximum close-up magnification at the 300 mm focal length. It's the ideal high performance lens for portraits, sports photography, nature photography, and other types of photography that frequently use the telephoto range. It also has a switch for changeover to macro photography at focal lengths between 200mm and 300mm with a maximum close-up magnification from 1:2.9 to 1:2. The minimum focusing distance is 1.5m / 59 in. at all zoom settings.

Send it to the repair shop Digital cameras like most folk object to brute force. you have probably wreck the focus motor and gearing.