Charger schematics found charger not woerking on further investigation determined resistor r-5 burned up. not being able to read the bands on resistor need to now actual resistor value to fix correctly. PS 2 1M ohms connected in parralel works but would like to do it correctly.

Also looking wiring schematic M12 Milwaukee charger

This could point to several causes:

1) Accidentally disconnected battery or batteries inside Neato
2) A charger that is not properly assembled (check charging block connections)
3) A dead battery
4) A defective charger
5) Defective charging circuitry on the Neato motherboard

The easiest way to determine the actual cause is to thoroughly research each potential cause on the Neato Robotics forum, found here:

I had two of them like this. Order resistor at Digikey. Match the resistor color rings to the online decoder at Digikey so you get the right one. Refresh the Ni-cd battery while you're in there. Search "youtube" for battery fix. It's easy to do.

Hi there,

Sorry to hear you're having difficulties with your DC16. Although your cleaner will no longer be under its original 2 year warranty, the new motor assembly would be covered by a 12 month warranty if you purchased it directly from Dyson. As long as the cleaner has been used in accordance with the terms and conditions described in the manual, we should be able to replace this for you.

Alternatively, we could arrange to have the cleaner returned to us for further inspection.

In either case, please get in touch with us directly so we can discuss the issue further. You can call us free on 08002980298 - our Helpline is open from 7am until 10pm, 7 days a week. We look forward to hearing from you.

Kind regards,

Jack
Dyson Customer Service

Hello,

Investigate these three areas if your microwave won't heat

Power Diode

A diode is an electronic component that readily passes current in one direction only and blocks the flow of current in the opposing direction. If your microwave's diode has become defective, your microwave will not heat and you will hear a buzzing noise. Test the diode to determine if this is the cause of your problem. Replace it if it is defective.

Testing a diode

NOTE: Before you test your diode, make sure your microwave is unplugged, and that you discharge the microwave's capacitor.

Whether it is shorted or open, a defective diode will most likely show some sign of defect. Defective diodes will usually emit an electrical burning smell, signifying its defectiveness. Also, it may have split in two, or it may exhibit a burned crack, or possibly even a blistered spot.

A shorted diode is indicated by a loud humming noise from the high voltage transformer, and no heat produced when a cook cycle is initiated. Whereas little or no heat produced in your microwave, with an absence of a humming noise is indicative of an open diode. In either case, the diode has to be replaced.

With your microwave unplugged, and your capacitor discharged, use extreme caution to remove the lead that leads to the capacitor. You can leave the ground connection attached. The side of the diode that goes to the ground is usually marked with a dot, stripe, or arrow. Set your ohmmeter to R x 10,000 or higher. Touch the positive meter probe to the anode and the negative meter probe to the cathode to measure the resistance across the diode terminals. Remember that the cathode is on the side that goes to the ground, which is often marked by a dot, stripe, or an arrow.

A normal diode, that is a non-defective diode, will read anywhere from 50,000 to 200,000 ohms. Differences in microwave make and model account for this large range in resistance readings.

Reverse the meter probes and measure resistance while touching the positive probe to the cathode and the negative probe to the anode. Reversing the probes like this should result in a reading of infinity. Unless a bleeder resistor is present. The presence of a bleeder resistor would produce a reading of the value of the resistor.

High Voltage Capacitor

A capacitor is an electrical device which stores electricity. A defective capacitor may be why your microwave is not heating but you are hearing a buzzing or humming noise. The capacitor will have to be tested to determine if this is the cause of your problem. A defective capacitor will have to be replaced before your microwave will work again. Make sure you discharge the capacitor before you test it, though.

Magnetron

A defective magnetron is the third possible cause of why your microwave is not heating, but you can hear a buzzing noise. Test your microwave's magnetron. Replace it if it is defective.

Testing a magnetron

NOTE: Before you test this component, make sure your microwave is unplugged, and that you have discharged the capacitor.

There are two tests to conduct in order to determine whether or not a magnetron has become defective. If you receive results other than what are detailed below, you will have to replace your microwave's magnetron. Each test is described for you here:

TEST 1: Locate your magnetron and label each of the wires attached to it so that you know which wires are to be replaced where. Set your ohmmeter to the lowest resistance scale. Take a resistance measurement between each of the magnetron's terminals by touching each probe to one terminal each. Reverse the probes and take a second resistance measurement. Each measurement should read less than one ohm.

TEST 2: Set your ohmmeter to its highest resistance scale. Touch one of the meter's probes to a magnetron terminal. Touch the other probe to the metal magnetron housing. Take special caution to not touch the two probes together. This could result in an inaccurate reading. This test should produce a reading of infinity - indicating an open circuit.

Read the tips on the below links on how to replace your microwave oven's diode and how to discharge the capacitor.

http://www.fixya.com/support/r7088355-replace_microwave_ovens_diode

http://www.fixya.com/support/r7088317-discharge_microwave_ovens_capacitor

I hope the above is helpful.

Good luck.

According to you your machine's resistor burnt out. This resistor is located above the 240 volt capacitor which white base. change the resistor soon. For color code of the resistor you can follow the manual. You can visit also the product website for tech assistance.

Hi

If it smells like burning rubber, then your belt is probably slipping due to having lost tension and needs to be replaced. If it's another smell, it could be the motor burning out, but that is often accompanied by smoke. There could also be something caught around the revolving brushes in the cleaning head. Lie the vacuum on it's side and make sure you can spin the brushbar freely by hand. Also check for any debris entangled in or obstructing the brushes. This would also cause the belt to slip resulting in a smell of burning rubber. It could also damage the motor so I suggest not using the vacuum until the source of the fault has been determined.

Instructions on replacing the belt can be found in your user manual. If you don't have one or need further instruction on how to do this, please post back for further assistance.

Regards,
BElectric.

Can not believe NO ONE could answer this.

The R1 resistor basically drops the 9V to around 5V for charging the battery pack. The resistor is a 10 ohm , 2 watt resistor. The other resistor is 220 ohm. This only limits the current to the LED.

The 10 ohm resistor burnt because the battery pack was left to sit too long without use and charging. So the cells shorted causing excessive current through the resistor when you attempted to charge the batteries.

After replacing the resistor, you will need to replace the battery pack before charging. Otherwise, you'll just burn the resistor again.

Hi there,

Well first of all you may check that the charger (adapter) is working or not, you may use a volt meter to check it out or use another charger to make sure....... further you may follow the step below -
1. Remove the battery pack from Vacuum.
2. Hold down the power button for five seconds.
3. Reinstall the battery to reset the system.
4. Plug the Charger directly into vacuum.
5. Charge the battery untill the power light is solid green again and keep the vacuum on the charger for an additional 72 hours (3 days). Important: Do NOT interrupt this charging cycle.
If further you have the same problem it means it's time to change the old battery with new one.

Good Luck!!
Thanks for using FixYa!!

This sounds like your roller has stopped causing the belt (s) to burn. The problem is definitely in the foot of the vac. You will need to take the bottom plate off to investigate further.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_b96ba3f038cf317c