I am able to turn the monitor on for a few seconds. Once it is turned on, the monitor displays "Analog" in the top left portion of the screen and then abruptly goes blank. If i shine a flashlight at the screen from the side, the screen still displays an extremely faint picture that it is receiving from my laptop. After some research, I found that some others have had the same issue. I replaced the following capacitors on the inverter board (C112, C113, C316). The C112 and C136 (870uf, 25V) were obviously defective and were replaced with 1000uf 35V capacitors. The C113 (470uf 25V) did not seem defective but was replaced with one rated at 470uf 35V. After reassembling the hardware, the problem was still occurring. Any advice would be greatly appreciated...
SOURCE: Samsung GH19LS LCD Monitor wont display computer signals
You should have received two cables with the monitor. One is for VGA and plugs into you video card or computer board . The second one is for DVI digidal video and if you have that cable it plugs into the square connector. Then if you look into your monitor manual or quick setup sheet it will tell you how to connect and set the monitor to either VGA or Digital. I'm sure that is what has to be set. Don't hook up both cables to the monitor and computer. Only use the one. Digital gives you a better picture if your computer has that function. Hope this is helpful. Bud
SOURCE: Syncmaster 910t blinks image perfectly once and goes back to black
I've had same problem and I fixed it!
With good CCFLs, clean supplying voltages, all good capacitors and resoldered junctions, the backlight still turns on for fraction of second and goes off.
It is in the Power Supply / Inverter board. In the Inverter part there are two dual n/p-MOSFETS U3 and U4 (models STS7C4F30L, SO-8 packages). I've found they both have too high ON-Resistance (perhaps due to age and constant overheating). All you need to do is to replace them. I've checked many models and found closest by Rds and IDcont (continuous drain current) are IRF7389, you can find distributor by findchips.com, but I've bought them at newark.com, they're cheap.
The hardest thing was to unsolder old chips, they are glued to PCB and because of overheated material under them, the copper could easily go apart. Therefore, the best is using fine tips cutters, cut off all legs one by one and then take chip body off the PCB and take legs from pads by iron. That's all you need. After that my monitor started working as new even with old CCFLs. Good Luck!
SOURCE: Monitor goes blank after 3 seconds -Samsung SyncMaster 920NW
hello i have the same problem, there are 4 lamps (bulbs) inside the monitor when some of them falls the system turn off, cheks and good look
SOURCE: I have a Samsung Syncmaster 932b LCD monitor.
savato321, Most black screen lcd monitor owners don't have the smarts to open up their monitors to do a VISUAL inspection of the "switch-mode-power-supply/inverter supply!!!! You're good. Now you will need to know some stuff about electrolytic filter capacitors! First, the "uf" or "UF" means micro-farad! It is just a rating given to express the storage capacity of the device. Next is the voltage rating. A 16v rating means that the capacitor should never be placed in a circuit where the voltage will exceed 10 to 12 volts DC. Your 820 uf cap rated at 25volts will most likely be in a 12 to 18volt dc circuit. Now for temperature rating. All caps have a maximum temp rating. Most clock radios, stereos, will use 85 degree centegrade rated caps. Printers,PCs,monitors, will use 105 degree C rated capacitors. Never replace with lower specification units! You can GO up but never DOWN. If 1000uf 25v is all you can get it's OK. If you can get 820uf 35v units and they are not too big and they will fit on the board sure you can use them. I would stick with the OEM design voltage rating. Electrolytic CAPS are polarized!! You must replace them + to + and - to -!!! If you screw -up they will blow-up!! The wire lead closest to the printed STRIPE on the cap will be the negative and the unmarked terminal will be the positive. If you visit www.ccl-la.com/badcaps.htm you will get more info on recapping your SMPS. You can also watch some DIY videos at YOUTUBE for "lcd monitor repair" that might be helpful. Also visually inspect the SMPS/inverter printed circuit board for "COLD" FROSTY looking solder joints. They should all have near mirror finish to them. Let us know the name of the BAD CAPS you remove from your unit. You may even want to document with pics with a digital camera what you find. Well, good luck guy. 12fixlouie
SOURCE: monitor comes on for 2 seconds then goes blank
Check if the cable connecting your monitor from the video card is properly secure and not loose...
You can also try this... turn off your cpu..remove the cable from your video card.....Open the housing....remove your video card from your motherboard... clean the contact surface of the video card with moisten cloth.... after cleaning...connect the video card to the motherboard...attached the cable to your video card.. close the housing and try to boot again...
I hope that work.. if not my suggestion is you try your video card in other computer, try also the monitor to other computer.. to see which one failed.
Much appreciated if you rate this help.. thanks..
Hi hope your monitor issue has resolved. I would suspect the
problem is a hardware issue then a software setting. Since the monitor is over
three and half years old, if your monitor is a LCD with CCFL back light and had
been used almost every day, there may be 3 possible hardware issues. First is
the internal power supply, that can go wrong due to heating problem within the
monitor, this problem usually cause the monitor to display poor quality picture
and may show interference lines on screen prior failure. Secondly, it may be
the inverter that drives the back light, which may fail due to the safety
circuit kicks in, because it involves with high voltages. Thirdly it may be the
backlight itself, which is like most compact CCFL energy saving lamps that
flickers or turn itself off when it reaches the end of its service life. This problem
usually caused the monitor to show redness or yellowness images prior failure.
All of these can be resolved by qualified electronic repairers, all the best.
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