Water inlet valve

Hi Welcome to FixYa I am Kelly. You have debris inside your water inlet valve. You can try to clean it by doing the following:

- First remove both hoses from the water inlet valve and remove the inlet screens of the water valve.
(Use a knife blade on the outer part of the screens to remove them from the water valve)
- Connect both hoses to the water inlet valve without the inlet screens.
- Connect ONE hose to the wall faucet
- Place ONE hose in a bucket

SELECT WARM WASH and start wash fill

Water should flow into the washer and the bucket. Use the handle of a screwdriver and tap the hose connections of the inlet water valve for about 20 seconds. (your trying to free the debris from the inlet water valve diaphram)

Stop Fill

Reverse Hose connection at the wall.... i.e. hook up other hose and disconnect the one you had connected. Place the hose you disconnected from the wall into the bucket.

START warm fill

Water should flow into the washer and the bucket. Use the handle of a screwdriver and tap the hose connections of the inlet water valve for about 20 seconds. (your STILL trying to free the debris from the inlet water valve diaphrams)

STOP FILL

- Connect hose to wall connection
- WASH the inlet screens under slowly running water until both sides are clean
- Remove hoses from the water inlet valve and install the inlet screens.
- Reconnect hoses and turn on water supply

TEST HOT and COLD fill

Turn off machine.... IF the debris was freed the water flow will stop when the machine is turned off.

If this flushing attempt does not correct your constant water flow the remedy is to replace the water inlet valve on your washer.

I can help with locating parts ON-Line but will need your model number to help you should you require a water valve.

Hopefully you are able to clear the debris by doing the above. (50 - 50 chance of it working)

Thanks for Choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Welcome to FIxYa.com

THERMOSTAT REMOVAL

HINT: Removal of the thermostat would have an adverse

effect causing a lowering of cooling efficiency. Do not remove

the thermostat, even if the engine tends to overheat.

1. DRAIN ENGINE COOLANT

2. REMOVE AIR CLEANER CAP WITH AIR CLEANER

HOSE

3. DISCONNECT ECT SW1TCH CONNECTORS

4. DISCONNECT ENGINE VIRE PROTECTOR FROM

WATER INLET AND RH CYLINDER HEAD

Remove the 2 nuts, and disconnect the engine wire

protector from the water inlet and cylinder head.

5. DISCONNECT WATER INLET PIPE FROM WATER

INLET AND LH CYLINDER HEAD

a) Remove the bolt and disconnect the inlet pipe from the

water inlet.

b) Remove the O-ring from the inlet pip e.

6. REMOVE WATER INLET AND THERMOSTAT

a) Remove the 3 nuts, water inlet and thermostat.

b) Remove the gasket from the thermostat.

INSPECTION

INSPECT THERMOSTAT

HINT: The thermostat is numbered with the valve opening

temperature.

a) immerse the thermostat in water and gradually heat the

water.

b) Check the valve opening temperature.

Valve opening temperature: 80 - 84CC (176- 183 deg f)

If the valve opening temperature is not as specified,

replace the thermostat.

c) Check the valve lift.

Valve lift: 10.0 mm (0.394 inch) or more at 95CC (203 deg f)

If the valve lift is not as specified, replace the

thermostat.

d) Check that the valve is fully closed when the

thermostat is at low temperatures (below 40CC (104CF)).

if not dosed, replace the thermostat.

INSTALLATION

1. PLACE THERMOSTAT IN WATER PUMP

a) Install a new gasket on to the thermostat.

b) Align the thermostat jiggle valve with the upper stud

bolt and insert the thermostat in the water inlet

housing.

HINT: The jiggle valve maybe set within 15 deg of either

side of the prescribed position.

2. INSTALL WATER INLET

Install the water inlet with the 3 nuts.

Torque: 8.0 Nm (80 kgf-cm, 69 inch lbs.)

3. INSTALL WATER INLET PIPE

a) Install a new O-ring to the water inlet pipe.

Thank you for using FixYa.com

Regards, Lee Davidian

First you should remove the hoses and clean the screens in the ends of the hose, some hoses have screens in both ends. While the hoses are removed look inside the water inlet valve there should be a screen in there also remove and clean the screen out. Some screens will not be removable so you will need to clean in place or remove the water inlet valve. If all is clear you will need to check the solenoids on the water inlet valve for power.If the solenoid has power when put in a fill cycle and no water eneters your washer you will need to replace the water inlet valve. Most water inlet valves must be replaced as a unit, so if one solenoid fails you replace the hole valve assembly. These are inexpensive and easy to replace. Here is a video at that will walk you thru the testing a water inlet valve. It may be a different model but the testing will be the same. If you need help disassembling there are also videos of disassembling most styles. You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations of your specific model. Not all models will be available. All parts come with installation instructions.

The problem is caused by a leaking water inlet valve and the only way to solve it is by replacing the water inlet valve assembly. It is an easy "do-it-yourself" fix that only requires a minimum effort.

Water Inlet Valve Replacement Procedure

1. Remove the three screws at the back of the machine holding the top cover.
2. Slide the top cover to the back and lift it from the washer.
3. Put a bucket or pan under the inlet valves.
4. Remove the fill hoses from the machine and drain the water into the bucket or pan to avoid flooding your floor.
5. Remove the screws holding the water inlet valve assembly to the back of the machine.
6. Use a pair of pliers to press the spring clamp holding the inlet hose to the inlet valve assembly and move the spring clamp away.
7. Install the new water inlet valve assembly and all other parts disassembled in reverse order of the procedure above.
8. Make sure to clean the fill hose filters, if there's any, before attaching it to the water inlet valve assembly.
   

HI. this will occur when the water inlet valve is clogged with debris. this will cause the valve to stick, or not close properly. follow the procedure below to inspect the valve for mechanical damage. replace if needed.

The water inlet valve is located behind your refrigerator. Find the water supply line coming into the valve and turn it off at the source (typically under the sink). Disconnect the supply line. Remove the screws that secure the inlet valve in place.

The water inlet valve is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the water inlet valve before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the terminals with slip on connectors

Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.

Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush, or warm running water. If you cannot clear the clog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves).


Test the water inlet valve for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of 200 to 500 ohms. Close inspection of the inlet valve and especially the coil may reveal the exact ohm resistance rating to test for. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced.

HI. The inlet valve is suspect in this case. I recommend to inspect this device for damage. replace if necessary.

The water inlet valve is located behind your refrigerator. Find the water supply line coming into the valve and turn it off at the source (typically under the sink). Disconnect the supply line. Remove the screws that secure the inlet valve in place.

The water inlet valve is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the water inlet valve before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the terminals with slip on connectors

Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.

Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush or warm running water. If you cannot clear the clog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves).


Test the water inlet valve for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of 200 to 500 ohms. Close inspection of the inlet valve and especially the coil may reveal the exact ohm resistance rating to test for. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced.


NOTE:- Make sure the inside line is not frozen over before preforming the inspection of the inlet valve.

HI, this will occur if there is debris present inside the inlet valve structure that is preventing the inlet valve form completely closing itself when not in use. the will cause a small amount of water to leak through the lines. This could also be a damaged valve as well(mechanism failure).

I recommend to inspect this valve. The water inlet valve is located behind your refrigerator. Find the water supply line coming into the valve and turn it off at the source (typically under the sink). Disconnect the supply line. Remove the screws that secure the inlet valve in place.

The water inlet valve is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the water inlet valve before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the terminals with slip on connectors

Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.

Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush
or warm running water. If you cannot clear the clog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves).


Test the water inlet valve for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of 200 to 500 ohms. Close inspection of the inlet valve and especially the coil may reveal the exact ohm resistance rating to test for. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced.

HI. there are only two reasons for this type of issue. One would be a frozen water supply line and reservoir, and the second reason will be a faulty inlet valve assembly. IF you are certain that the lines are not frozen, i recommend replacing the inlet valve assembly asap.

Use this procedure below to test the valve.

The water inlet valve is located behind your refrigerator. Find the water supply line coming into the valve and turn it off at the source (typically under the sink). Disconnect the supply line. Remove the screws that secure the inlet valve in place.

The water inlet valve is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the water inlet valve before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the terminals with slip on connectors

Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.

Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush or warm running water. If you cannot clear the clog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves).


Test the water inlet valve for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of 200 to 500 ohms. Close inspection of the inlet valve and especially the coil may reveal the exact ohm resistance rating to test for. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced.

HI. could be4 as simple as a frozen inlet line or, the water inlet assembly valve may be damaged as well. I recommend inspecting the lines for ice or frozen water. if the line are Ok and not frozen, this will confrim a defective inlet valve.

The water inlet valve is located behind your refrigerator. Find the water supply line coming into the valve and turn it off at the source (typically under the sink). Disconnect the supply line. Remove the screws that secure the inlet valve in place.

The water inlet valve is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the water inlet valve before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the terminals with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.

Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush or warm running water. If you cannot clear the clog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves).

Test the water inlet valve for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of 200 to 500 ohms. Close inspection of the inlet valve and especially the coil may reveal the exact ohm resistance rating to test for. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced.

HI. there is a water valve(inlet) that is responsible for the flow of water to the dispenser and ice maker(if equipped). i recommend testing the operational value of this valve.((Make sure the lines are not frozen before testing. frozen lines will affect the flow also))

The water inlet valve is located behind your refrigerator. Find the water supply line coming into the valve and turn it off at the source (typically under the sink). Disconnect the supply line. Remove the screws that secure the inlet valve in place.

The water inlet valve is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the water inlet valve before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the terminals with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.

Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush or warm running water. If you cannot clear the clog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves).

Test the water inlet valve for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of 200 to 500 ohms. Close inspection of the inlet valve and especially the coil may reveal the exact ohm resistance rating to test for. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced.