Maytag Gas Oven top burner does not turn on when in bake mode

self clean and broil will make same heat for self clean
if this is a gas range then change bake glow ignition
more info can be yours send us full model # of range for more exact info of your range.
electric range will be element bake or broken burned wire

Assuming this is on a gas range, the bake burner ( under the oven floor) and the broil burner ( at the top of the oven) have electric igniters . When switching from bake to broil the broiler goes off due to a defective or broken broil igniter. cheap part to replace ( +-$40.00)

Hello there:
It doesn't bake Bake igniter
When the bake igniter becomes weak or burns out, your oven would not bake. The bake igniter is usually mounted on the oven burner. It's about 1 inch by 4-8 inches (depending on the model), and comes in round or flat styles. If you don't see the igniter glow at all, it's probably burned out. Replace the igniter if found defective. Note: one of the exceptions could be that your oven is set to automatic mode instead of manual. If this is the case, set your oven to manual mode and check again.

If the bake igniter glows red and not bright yellow or white, it is probably because it is too weak. When this happens, the safety valve would not let the gas out into the oven burner. A weak igniter must be replaced.

A faulty igniter is probably the most common cause, however there are others:

-- defective thermostat
-- defective selector switch
-- defective gas safety valve

If you are certain the igniter is ok, it might be a good idea to call a professional appliance technician.

Need a new oven igniter? Click here for most common oven igniters or enter your oven model number in our PART SEARCH. ^ top It doesn't broil Broil igniter
When the broil igniter becomes weak or burns out, your oven would not broil. The broil igniter is usually mounted on the oven burner. It's about 1 inch by 4-8 inches (depending on the model), and comes in round or flat styles. If you don't see the igniter glow at all, it's probably burned out. Replace the igniter if found defective. Note: one of the exceptions could be that your oven is set to automatic mode instead of manual. If this is the case, set your oven to manual mode and check again.

If the broil igniter glows red and not bright yellow or white, it is probably because it is too weak. When this happens, the safety valve would not let the gas out into the oven burner. A weak igniter must be replaced.

A faulty igniter is probably the most common cause, however there are others:

-- defective thermostat
-- defective selector switch
-- defective gas safety valve

Read more: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/repairtips/repairtips_range_oven.aspx#ixzz1CgFQ7lBJ
http://www.appliancepartspros.com

Hi,

The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...

Oven not Working or Oven not Heating

Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter


heatman101

Unplug the range.
I would open the control console and locate the BAKE/BROIL terminals on the Oven control. I would reverse the wires,plug the range in and try again.
Sounds to me like someone has changed out a part and wired it wrong.

When the bake igniter becomes weak or burns out, your oven would not bake. The bake igniter is usually mounted on the oven burner. It's about 1 inch by 4-8 inches (depending on the model), and comes in round or flat styles. If you don't see the igniter glow at all, it's probably burned out. Replace the igniter if found defective. Note: one of the exceptions could be that your oven is set to automatic mode instead of manual. If this is the case, set your oven to manual mode and check again.

If the bake igniter glows red and not bright yellow or white, it is probably because it is too weak. When this happens, the safety valve would not let the gas out into the oven burner. A weak igniter must be replaced.

A faulty igniter is probably the most common cause, however there are others:

-- defective thermostat
-- defective selector switch
-- defective gas safety valve
-- defective gas valve coils

Does the oven ignitor "glow" when turned on but no flame appears? does this model have an actual broil burner ? or does it just have a broil drawer at the bottom ? If it has a broil burner up top of the oven, does it ignite ? It could be the clock/timer, but rarely. If the "bake" ignitor glows, but the burner doesn't ignite, or ignites slowly and/or a "sputtering" flame, replacing the bake ignitor should solve the problem.

good luck

Probably need to replace the igniter. Swap the broil and bake igniters and see if the problem follows the igniter. I just had this happen to mine. Glow bar/igniter appeared to be working properly but was weak causing the regulator valve circuit to keep the flames very low. Swapped ingiters as instructed and problem went with the bad igniter to the broil/top burner.

The igniter in the oven does not spark. It heats up and glows red hot until enough current opens the safety gas valve to the burner. It is not associated with the stovetop burners. Replace the oven igniter itself.

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You probably need to replace the baking igniter, (Igniter,bake burner
Part Number: AP4102011 made by MAYTAG).

I tested the igniter function by (CAREFULLY) jerry rigging a bridge to wire the BAKE igniter to the BROILER controls. (Push/click plugs accessible by opening up the stove back) Testing the broiler controls this way the bake element remained cold. I then did the same test but connected the BROILER igniter to the BAKE controls and got a good glow. This indicates that the controls work but the Bake igniter's faulty!

You can access the bake igniter by removal of 2 screws at the front at the platform just inside the top oven. The broil and bake igniters appear to be identical but the push/click plugs are reversed at the back of the stove. (hence the CAREFUL jerry rigged wiring bridge.) The parts and wiring are pretty simple and visual once you get the covers off. Opening up the stove back is just a matter of removing several screws. UNPLUG the stove before you work. If you test as I described, make all connections while UNPLUGGED and then plug it in only for the brief test. Unplug again while disconnecting/reconnecting. Hope this helps.