When I go to SEAL, it burns a small hole clear thru the bag. One little metal peice on the sealing strip has burned right thru the white heating strip, therefore, it isn't sealing completely.

Freezer /fridge leaking water/ice frozen in fridge and or freezer, or leaks on floor

Usually due to CONDENSATION due to bad door seals or a plugged evaporator drain line? Can use a soft flexable tubing and very hot water to clean it out. Bad door seals usually need replacement, but u can use a blow dryer and something to pry it closer to the door wall while blowing hot air on to it. To create a seal, to test for bad door seals place a dollar bill in between the door and wall of fridge where it closes. Then slide out the dollar bill with door closed. It should offer some resistance and not be easy to pull out.

Fix any gaps in the door seal.Pack out the seal underneath the areas where the door seal has the gaps. This can be done with a small strip of weather stripping, as shown here, or a bit of tightly rolled up paper under the door seal. Alternatively, you can heat the door seal up with a hair dryer to fix the gaps. This softens the door seal and allows you to stretch it.

Most all fridges have a drain. Look inside your fridge for a "V" shaped channel with a small hole. This hole leads to a tube and a small pan which sits on top of your refrigerator's compressor. The defrost cycle causes water to run into the channel, down the tube, and then it generally evaporates with the heat of the hot condenser/compressor.
However, if that tube is clogged with food crumbs, particles , debris etc, you will have to clear it to get back to a normal mode of operation. A toothpick, pipecleaner, straw or a cotton bud can often do the trick. Another trick one can use is to connect a copper tube wire with one end going into the drain hole then attach the other end to the heater wrap it around heater a few times. That will take care of the drain problem when it comes to ice build up but not food build up.
Even a frost free freezer will still ice up at times in the areas away from the heated defrost area and the drain line can freeze. This icing causes the pipe work to the compressor to ice over or sweat and cause a puddle. Or if the drainage has frozen over, it will need to be de-iced. ( usually the line is under the freezer bottom plate covering. Towards the back of the unit) And there is another inside the fridge area also.
Give the freezer a good overnight defrost until it's totally clear of ice in addition to making sure the drain is clear to the pan at the back and then restart the freezer.
God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me.

OTHER THINGS TO CHECK ARE THE DEFROST TERMINATOR AND THE HEATER ELEMENT FOR COBNTINUITY.


Refrigeration System Basics Chapter 1 Unclogging Frost Free Refrigerator Condensate Drain How to Unclog Refrigerator Drain Line

I think that you have the same problem that I have. The protective tape over the heating element [a strip in my case] has a hole in it and allows the element to come in direct contact with the bag. Also, the heating strip had a kink in it was was no longer flat. I carefully cleaned the heating strip and flattened it out as best I can. I have ordered some tape from : http://www.ebay.com/itm/170848027703?item=170848027703&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:X:AAQ:MOTORS:1123&vxp=mtr to replace the defective one. A simple job.

Hi lip58122
Get a piece of wire a couple of feet long (straightened metal coat hanger) and make a small hook in the end, insert the wire hook into the flapper hole and turn the wire a few times in a circle...you are trying to wrap the bag around the hook, if sucessful you will be able to remove the plastic bag.
Please take time to rate me

it could be a lite blue colour that looks white,if so then the car is burning a little oil,the valve seals are probably dried out and allowing small amounts of oil to be drawn into the combustion chamber past the seal and valve guides when the car sits and when started up the oil gets burned in the combustion chamber.if its white smoke then it could be a small head gasket coolant leak.

in general when car smokes ( white ) it burns the engine lubricating oil this because the sealing rings ( triple for each piston ) not doing their job any more or for another reason the cylinder wall itself due to the continuous friction between wall and seal o rings it creates a very Little gap that allows the oil to enter the combustion chamber and mixed then burned with fuel generating that white smoke and decreasing engine pressure
you will have to replace the cylinder head gasket since you are going to reveal the head to get into the pistons seal o rings
if the cylinder walls got little wider due to friction don`t panic you will get lager seal o rings to skip such a problem

you need to replace the seal on that side of the door due to it being worn. The easiest way to replace the seal is to lift the seal up from the inside and you can see the little bolts (1/4 inch head) on the inside. These bolts run through a metal strip that in turn holds the seal down. Once you loosen (do not remove) these bolts you can pull slightly and the seal will come out from the metal flashing strip holding it down. Look at the seal and you will notice a small hump where it sat on the inside of the hump on the metal flashing when you see it you'll understand what I mean. Once the older seal is removed the new seal is ready for replacement. Hint: If you let the new seal sit out in the sun for an hour or so it will become soft and pliable and much easier to work with.
Reinstallation is just the opposite of removal.
To make sure you get the correct seal take the model and serial numbers to a appliance parts house and they should have one for replacement.

Good Luck on your repairs hope this helped

Dave

the plastic that you see overlapping the metal on the sides of the opening is in two parts, top and bottom, you can see the seem. the top is the smaller part, this plastic is also the drum support on the front. There are some glides on the top section that wear with time, after a few years they may need replacement. Perhaps these are worn out dropping the drum creating an uneven gap and catching. there is also a felt strip in there between the front of the dryer and the drum, keeping it back.
To view this remove the top by removing the 2 screws inside upper door opening holding top down. then lift top and if plastic console slide to left then pull away, metal -just pull straight. remove 2 screws holding front to cabinet sides. pull front forward. glides are visible on top. if not there or worn thru plastic replace upper plastic support

My machine stopped working because the sealing ribbon was broken and the tape was worn. FoodSaver no longer does repairs. I knew the wire was called nichcome ribbon so I searched that. I checked the resistance of the ribbon on my machine, it was about 3.8 ohms. I found a site called mpakonline.com and from their site I bought 1/16 x .005 nichrome ribbon and 3/8 x 5 MIL. x 18 YD Acrylic Teflon Tape. The total cost of these items was about $36.00, the ohm value of their ribbon was 1.66 somewhat less.I used ends from radio shack made the repair and it has been working fine for the last two months and I have enough material leftover for about ten more repairs.