My kenmore ad 80 series washing machine won't spin

SOURCE: Washing machine will not drain/go into spin cycle

Check your lid switch. If the lid switch is not making proper contact, or is broken, the washer will fill, agitate (some model washers won't), then just stop when it gets to the spin cycle. If this is what you are experiencing, then this could be a quick and easy repair for you.

Try opening an closing the lid. If you don't hear a clicking noise when the lid closes, the lid switch may be bad or loose. It is mounted under the opening of the tub rim on the right-hand side and held in place with two screws. Make sure the lid strike ( a small plastic piece) is present on the lid as well. This closes the switch contacts when the lid closes. If the lid switch does not function, the washer will not complete a wash cycle.

If the determine the switch and/or lid strike is broken, searspartsdirect.com carries the parts need. Just type in the model number you provided and you will find the lid switch under the "Top and Cabinet" heading as item #11 (part #3949238). The Lid Strike is under the same heading as item #20 (part #350733).

If you need advice on how to replace the lid switch please post back and let me know.

If I'm off the mark here, please post back with comments and give me a little more elaboration on what your washer is doing or not doing.

PS You do not need to drain the tub to replace the switch. If you wish to drain it, however, and want to by-pass the lid switch, I can give you instructions on how to do this as well.

SOURCE: Kenmore 80 Series washing machine - loud banging at end of spin

With the lid open, set the cycle to spin and press the lid switch button with a pen. Wait until the drum gets to full speed and release the lid switch. If the drum makes a knocking/ thumping noise and doesn't stop spinning within 2-3 seconds, the basket drive block is worn and needs to be replaced. (The basket drive block is located on the gearcase drive shaft, under the tub and agitator) If this has been happening for a long time you may need to replace the brake and drive tube assembly as well.

Basket drive block part number is 389140

If that's not it, let me know and I will try to help you further.
Good luck!

SOURCE: I have a Kenmore 80 series washing machine and the

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

This also assumes that:

1. The machine will agitate and go through the rest of the cycles.

2. It will pump out the water.

3. Since it tries to spin, the Lid Switch is OK.

The problem points to the clutch and / or transmission

See the following for how to pull the clutch on Kenmore top load direct drive washers.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the clutch springs and pads seem OK, the problem points to the main spin gear inside of the transmission. If the clutch springs and/or pads are damaged, there is a rebuild kit for them.

Following is the Whirlpool / Kenmore installation and maintenance PDF on how their top load, direct drive, neutral drain washers work.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Here is another PDF of the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial washers, consumer models are basically the same.

If you look at the operation PDF you'll see how the transmission works when going into the spin cycle. If the "Neutral Drain" cams are intact, they drive the main spin gear which drives the spin gear connected to the clutch.

If the main spin gear is broken (It's a metal plate surrounded by plastic gears) you would hear a major grinding noise and the washer wouldn't spin.

Opening the transmission is not difficult but is a messy job. It holds about 14Oz. of oil.

Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the main spin gear or neutral drain assembly cams are damaged, they aren't too difficult to replace.

The Whirlpool Parts PDF has part numbers for both.

The Neutral drain assembly costs about $15 which is a lot less than $170 for a new transmission.

The Main spin gear is quite a bit more but still less than a transmission.

SOURCE: kenmore 80 series washing machine - won't stop

Your air pressure tube going to the water level switch is pinched or stopped up,OR, the water level switch is going bad.
Use this manual to access these parts and diagnose which is bad.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb?OpenDocument

SOURCE: No Spin Cycle in Kenmore 80 Series Top Loading Washer

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer: Following is the Sears site for Whirlpool (110.) models with your model number.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.23812100


and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.

Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

Following is a description of how to release the console for access to the pins.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf



It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.