Electric winch electric 4x4 winch when cable is out it will only winch in, with or without load about 200mm then stop. You then push the out button for 1 second then the winch will start winching in for another 200mm then stop again. You have to repeat this process over and over.

Hello. It seems the winch on your Yamaha 'strained' its electrical system; 'fried' wires including the 'starter circuit' wiring. It's possible there is a 'blown' relay and/or fuse somewhere. Good luck and keep me informed; if you want to.

Much depends on the trailer. A low-loader with a low centre section is commonly used to move large loads but in the case of a dozer or other track laying vehicle these are driven on to the bed from the side and then turned. Duplicating that manoeuvre using winches or other vehicles for pulling and pushing could be a dangerous and lengthy process without assurance of success.

The safe and sensible solution would be to hire a mobile crane to lift the beast into place or use a couple of gantry cranes to lift it and then push the trailer under it. Getting the dozer running where it is would be the best solution...

A rear-loading trailer would solve the problem as the dozer could be pushed and winched onto it in a straight line.

If I was faced with your problem; needing to get a dozer onto a trailer with a low centre bed, I would dig a pit so the rear end of the trailer was below ground level and then using heavy timbers and props make a roadway so the dozer could be pushed and/or winched onto the bed from the rear. Using something like a 360 and an expert operator the pit could be dug quickly and have a slope the towing truck could manage...

if your saying that winch will take in and let out ok but wont hold a load in tension , then your winch directional valve or the winch motor is worn out and is allowing oil to pass right thru it regardless of it not being activated as skidder winches don't have a brake like electric winches do it uses the power of the oil locked into motor to hold a load ( that's also why id never stand under a load suspended by one !!!)

Where did you ground the winch motor? You need a separate, heavy duty, switch with a relay to transfer the positive side voltage properly... DO NOT ground to the battery..use a clean, free of paint, place to ground. You may have fried the solenoid..do not connect the positive side to the solenoid. Direct connection to the + battery from the relay is good with a good waterproof fuse in line. Sometimes I have seen the "maint. free" batteries die when used "wrong" and still show 13 volts+.

Use a test light at the contactor to see if the switch and wiring are good.If you see an input from the switch up to the contactor,make sure the connections are all clean on the control input terminals at the contactor.(The contactor is the device that changes the polarity of 12V to the winch to extend or retract-essentially a double throw double pole relay).

Is it slipping or stalling?

The 1585202 winch is capable of pulling 8500 pounds when provided adequate DC power. With no load (winding up slack the cable) the motor requires 84 amps and winds at 18 feet / second. When fully loaded (8500 pounds), the motor requires in excess of 320 amps and winds at 3.5 feet / second. That's an awfully large amount of current and it will need heavy duty power supply cables to work without overheating or melting insulation. I suspect your 1585200 is the same model with same electrical requirements, but did not include a fairlead, mounting plate, etc..

Superwinch has wiring kit #2007 for front mount (5 foot cables) and #2008 for trailer mounts (25 foot cables) and can simplify the installation with other accessories as well. They're a U.S. company and can be contacted them directly:

Superwinch, LLC
359 Lake Road
Dayville, CT 06241 US
Ph: 860-928-7787
F: 860-928-1143
www.superwinch.com

Sometimes the winch cable can become pinched or bind up in the spool. This will make it act like it is going in when the out position is pushed. Try hooking your winch up to a post and turning it to free wheel on the winch, then slowly back the RZR up about 10-20 feet. This should be enough to free up any spots in the cable. Turn the winch back in to operating position, and try pressing the in and out on the switch to see if operation is normal. Otherwise someone may have switched the cables going into the winch, 1 yellow and 1 blue. Let me know if you need any more help, Daniel.

this light is to tell you that your transfercase is in neutral, in this position your truck will have no drive, helpfull sometimes when having having to winch yourself out of the mud. In order to get moving shift to 4 hi or 4 low or out of 4x4 mode. Hope this was helpfull

The clutch knob on the side needs to be loosened up. Rotate this and the shaft will be free to pull the cable out.