Turnned off for 24 hours and restarted, still freezer working only. No amonia smell or yellow staining in the fridge.
You have to send the brand name and model number so i can help you.all that happens is the evapcoil in the freezer gets cold,the evap fan motor blows cold air from the freezer into the fridge side,depending on your model you could have a bad damper,this is a door that is in the fridge section,it opens and closes letting the air come in,try this,open the freezer door,if you don't hear the fan blowing you could have a bad fan motor,also touch your hand on the back inside wall of the freezer,if you have frost or like ice on the back wall you have a defrost problem,ice is biulding up on the coil and the fan can't blow the air over to the other side..if you need more help,do these tests and send the model number off of the machine and brand name,side by side or freezer on bottom,open the fridge door,look up on right hand side wall near ceiling or on ceiling,freezer on top look on left side in fridge section.
janet,i'm sorry,i thought it said you had a domestic fridge,i don't know about rv fridges but i can't see it being that much of a difference,like i said the cold air is blown over from the freezer to the fridge side with a fan,check to see if the fan motor is bad,another thing that happens if the fan is bad is that heat rises so the bottom half of the fridge and freezer will be colder,if you shut it down for a day all ice would have melted so check the fan motor,on a regular machine when you open the freezer door you can hear the fan blowing,not sure on yours,you can check the fan motor with a meter,sorry and hope some of this helps you.
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseac...
you can check this out,i googled it for you,if you read the bottom it sounds like you have a blockage in the vent where the air passes through
My 28 years in the RV service business says that you have a blocked cooling unit.
Your description of the trouble is a classic sign of cooling unit failure due to blockage, as someone else mentioned.
With a blockage, there will be no leak so you will not smell or see anything. There are small tubes that go between the freezer and the refer section and pieces of the epoxy coating that line the inside of the cooling unit tubes can flake-off and become lodged in these tubes.
You can remove the refer and "burp" it buy turning it on each side then the top then bottom, for a few hours each side. This will many times dislodge the blockage and return the flakes of epoxy back down to the boiler where hopefully they will remain.
I have used this process many times over the years and many times it has worked. Some it was only a temporayr fix but others lasted a long, long time.
Other than this, the cooling unit will need to be replaced. sorry again and hope this helps
good job janet,i'm very happy for you,i felt bad when i realized i made a mistake about your model but hey you fixed it and that's the important thing,if you have any problems with appliances in the house and you need a hand i'd be happy to try and help you out,also here's a site you can go to and look up parts
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdir...
and if you want to know how old one of your appliances are you can go to appliance 411,put the model and serial numbers in and it will tell you how old it is.have a great day salde
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Dometic model rm 2852 (on the inside of fridge) model number on cooling unit 805A. The freezer works but not the fridge.
There is no fan, it does run on a differenent system.
The information I got was good, I did find my fan that was conected to the thermal sensor was not working and it blew the fuse. Repaired the fan and replaced the fuse first (before I remove the fridge) and now it seems to have fixed it.
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