I am replacing the defrost control/timer on my refrigerator. I have purchased the 482493 defrost timer kit which is required to be configured before it is installed. The modes are either "continuous run" or "Cumulative compressor run (Version 1 or 2)". The configuration is determined by looking at the schematic of the refrigerator. I cannot find the schematic. Usually the schematic is located somewhere in the appliance. Or, is there a way to locate the proper schematic via the internet?
You have not mention model so you can go your self to this web page where they have the parts diagrams and for most of apliances the diagrams also and many more so this can solve your questions
SOURCE: Maytag PBF 2255 HEW refrigerator defrost timer location?
These look like schematics that might help you.
http://www.partselect.com/AdvancedModelSearch.aspx?ModelNum=PBF2255HEW&mfgModelNum=&fkMfgID=1
SOURCE: Need to Replace Defrost Timer
check bottom back left should be a small hole with a small plastic place to turn with a srew driver some are insidethe fride on the left side arond where the lite is if you see a mall plate with a srew open it it should be there thanks from gilles
SOURCE: I bought a defrost timer
use figure #1 as this unit uses a timer instead of adaptive cumulative defrost motherboard so use the white wire configuration #1
SOURCE: Refrigerator stopped cooling. Compressor
First, check to see if the light comes on or if there is any fan, motor, or other sound coming from the appliance? If so, the refrigerator isn't really completely stopped--go to the specific problem you are having. If not, try adjusting the thermostat to a colder setting. If that doesn't work, read on.
Second, check to see if there is power getting to the refrigerator. To do that, plug a lamp or other device into the same outlet the refrigerator is plugged into. If there's no power, check the fuses or circuit breakers. If the fuses or breakers aren't the problem, contact a qualified electrician to restore power to the outlet.
If there is power to the appliance but it still seems to be stopped, there may be a problem in one or more of these:
- Wiring
- Thermostat
- Defrost timer
- Compressor
- Overload and/or relay
Start out with the easy stuff first...make sure the lights go out when you close the door(s), make sure the doors are closing properly and the gaskets are closing fully and not torn. Check to make sure the evaporator fan in the freezer is working, this fan blows the cold air around. If the fan is not working, possible bad fan motor - check for power to the fan motor and also check the fan switches around the door openings, ( if your fridge has these switches, not all do ). A common problem cropping up in the last several years has been the air damper not opening up and allowing the cold air from the freezer to be blown into the fresh food section ( mostly on SxS refrigerators ). For many years the air damper was manually operated and now we have motorized controlled or temperature controlled or thermistor and electronic boards controlling air dampers, and if this device sticks closed the FF section will normally warm up. An example picture of "one" style and an air damper ( called a diffuser by Whirlpool ). Next would be to check the condenser tubing, a good place to start is to make sure the condenser coils are not built up with dust!! Make sure the condenser fan motor is also working properly. Check for any "clicking on and off" noises from the compressor, is the compressor running.
The most common fridge "not cooling" problem is a frost free failure. Remove the access panel in the freezer section to expose the evaporator coils. If the coils in the freezer section get plugged up with frost, this frost will block the evaporator fan motor from blowing the cold air around. The fan blade can also hit this frost and either become noisy or stop altogether. Locating the defrost timer can be tricky....they are often hidden behind the back bottom corners of the fridge at the bottom, in the last few years the timers have been located in the ceiling of the fresh food section, and some behind the cold control cover. Once you locate the defrost timer, slowly turn the screw like wheel in the middle of the defrost timer with a straight screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. You are now in defrost. If the defrost heater(s) comes on now, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater(s) does not come on, you can ohm test the defrost heater for continuity or volt test for 120 volts to the heater(s). If you have no power to the defrost heater(s) you can also bypass the defrost thermostat to see if the defrost heater will come on, join the 2 wires together to bypass the defrost thermostat. If the heater now comes on, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater itself is bad, defrost the fridge with a hair dryer, replace the defrost heater* and defrost thermostat. If the defrost timer seems "hot" to the touch or is noisy ( like a ticking or screeching noise )...replace it.
Keep us updated.
SOURCE: freezer coil iced up and ref gets warm. purchased
Sorry I can't help but check on line for your service manual.
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