Tube from head to tank is not kinked or bent, but the motor appears to be very warm once 60psi is reached.
If all is well where you say it is the next thing I'd check is the condition of the piston & cylinder then the valve plate. On oilless compressors it's common for the ring on the piston to get worn or have peices come off. It may or may not damage the cylinder but it will be able to compress air until the pressure is too high for the leak past the piston to overcome. Also if the valve plate got overly hot the reed valves may warp or break off, again letting the pump compress air only to a point then the internal leak will prevent it from getting high enough for the motor to stop and cool down.
SOURCE: craftsman aircompressor bogging down
Yes , the check valve will cause this. The check valve has a flat disk with a spring that holds it down that the air passing past it erodes away till it leaks then the air that the piston pushes into the tank does not stay in the tank but returns right back into the cylinder and puts a load on the piston. Also makes the compressor hard to start back up if it does get pumped up. Some have a dump valve that drains the pressure off the head after they shut off so it can start with no load. So if there is air bleading back and leaking at the pressure swith that will be a for sure sign it is the check valve.
SOURCE: Craftsman 6hp / 60gal air compressor
Make sure your pressure switch is set correctly. Check your pressure gauge and make sure it is functioning correctly. Also,seems sometimes if there is any time when there isn't the adequate amount of power demand supplied the motor heats up more causing the thermal protection switches to act a little finicky which in turn shuts it down.Check how many amps the motor is rated compared to the breaker controlling the circuit. Is it a dedicated circuit only for the compressor or are there other things also drawing power from the circuit ?
SOURCE: My Sears 1 HP compressor motor starts to slow down
IF IT HAS BELTS THE BELTS COULD HAVE BEEN LOOSE AND SLIPPING.. MOTOR COULD BE GETTING HOT DUE TO TOO SMALL OF CORD OR SMALL GAUGE DROPCORD. INTANK CHECK VALVE COULD BE GETTING CLOGGED NOT ALLOWING AIR TO PASS THRU IT. UNHOOK DISCHARGE LINE FROM HEAD TO THE TANK, THIS WILL ALLOW PUMP TO RUN UNDER NO STRESS AND SEE WHAT HAPPENS.
SOURCE: Was working normal suddenly will not build pressure
Maurader1 an apprentice has this problem solved and is spot on. All these gurus and wiz need to stick to the basic and common sense. The first place your pump will give out after use or abuse is the gasket. All this garbage about defective reeds and defective pressure switch is a lot of nonesense if you first don't rule out the most common problem the head gasket. I'm cheap and this thing has paid for itself 10 time over. You can get a gasket kit for $7, but I fabricated a gasket out of the back of my notebook and sprayed some gasket spray and been working like a charm ever since.
SOURCE: I have a Craftsman 3 gallon 1HP air compressor
Sounds like the compressor has failed -- probably the valve -- tear down and rebuild is probably the solution, or replace compressor, or just buy another unit. My nature would be to tear it down and see what's going on.
I'm sorry but
you have this posted in the wrong product category. Please re-post
the question in the proper category This is the car and truck problem
category
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