O ring came loose - American Standard Home

Locking clip suppose to be fairly loose, but if it's too loose it will not go all the way in to lock the axle in place, so you have to help it to slide in place.

I find the thing that works the best for releasing / breaking loose a jammed locking ring is one of those rubber pads that you use to open a stubborn jar of pickles.... Try it!! I've been using this for decades !!

The injectors have a 'O" ring around the tip to seal off the nozzle and if the injector is loose or the "O ring is old it will leak.; Replace the "o" ring and tension the injector correctly. Do them all as if one is leaking the rest will not be too far behind.

Hi. Usually if the abs activates under normal braking, its usually one of the wheel sensors is malfunctioning .
Also i have seen the segmented ring which rotates with the wheel, come loose on its shaft (rust gets to them and the ring cracks so is then loose on its shaft) Or the segmented ring (toothed ring) has got dirt or rust between some teeth therefore giving wrong signal to the ABS system
Ihope tis will be of some help to you
John (south Wales UK)

This symptom is typically caused by slippage of the scope in the rings, you should tighten the ring screws to 15 inch pounds or so. Many ring sets are slightly misaligned or poorly machined.

If you continue to have problems, you may need to use a ring lapping/alignment tool (available from midwayusa, (http://www.midwayusa.com/Search/#wheeler%20scope____-_1-2-4_8-16-32). This will increase the surface of the ring that actually contacts the scope, thus increasing the clamping force and friction to keep the scope in place during recoil.

Don't know what type of rings you have, but Leupold makes excellent rings. I have not found it necessary to lap these rings to date, even on my 45/70.

Other issues may include loose mount screws or loose ring to base mounts.

Mount your base screws using 15 to 20 inch pounds of torque and blue locktite. Torque your ring to base screws to 30 inch pounds or so.

If the scope is slipping in the rings, a quick temporary fix that might help is to apply rosin to the inside of the scope rings to increase friction. I have also used a dab of rubber cement as a temporary fix.

Without more info, I can't tell if you mean you have a loose head-set (that's the vertical tube that holds the bearings that turn when you steer), or if you have a mountain bike with springy front forks and the springy part is loose. If it's the springy part, you'll probably have to replace the whole front fork. If's it just a loose headset, you can tighten it pretty easily. Look at the top of the headset while you turn the handlebars back and forth (as if steering). Looking at the top of the headset you will see (from bottom to top) a knurled ring, a washer, and a large nut. The nut is a lock-not which is isolated from the knurled ring by the washer. The washer has a tab on the inside that prevents it from rotating. Tighten up the knurled ring by hand (you might have to lift up on the handlebars a bit to take the pressure off of it). Don't over-tighten the knurled ring or you won't be able to steer. Then tighten the lock nut with a wrench. Good luck

the same thing just happened to me like 3 days ago. The zoom ring was kinda sticky and then all of a sudden it just spins around and doesnt extend the barrel at all.

noise producers on vehicles include the worn brake pad indicator that rubs on the disc when the pads are dangerously low , loose seal shields on the diff pinions , tail shaft noise from failing bearings , "U" joints , center bearing supports and shields for that bearing touching the support bracket from failed bearing rubber mount
if is only heard when moving ,what I am suggesting that everything that turns has to be carefully inspected
for example a bit of rock stuck between the diff flange seal shield and the diff housing will create a noise that is amplified by the tail shaft

The piston ring whilst the piston is still in the pot should be relitivly tight. This is because it creates the seal to maintain compression. When the ring is taken off the piston it only has about 4mm gap between the two ends, any more than this it's probaby knackered. worth checking pot and piston for scoring around the exhaust outlet as if it's going to loose compression it will be at this point. If all these are fine check the decompression valve (if you model has one) if this is broken your compression will be ruined.

IF YOU TAKE A LOOK AROUND THE FRONT OF YOUR CAMERA THERE ARE SEVERAL SCREWS, ABOUT 4 I THINK,
1) 1 ON BASE
2) 1 ON THE LEFT LOOKING AT FROM THE FRONT
3) AND 2 INSIDE THE FLASH CASE
REMOVE THESE SCREWS AND THEN YOUR FOCUS RING AND SOME OF THE CASE SHOULD COME OFF
INSIDE THE FOCUS RING YOU SHOULD SEE 3 SREWS IF NOT CHECK THE CAMERA TO SEE IF THEY HAVE FALLEN INSIDE,
IF NO JOY YOU CAN REPLACE THE 3 MISSING SCREWS AND PUT IT ALL BACK TOGETHER

SWEET

DAVOS69

HOPE YOU DONT MIND BAD SPELLLLLING.........