Heating element is not getting hot. Element is reading 16 ohms, limiting thermostat is reading 0 ohms and all wiring back to the control panel is good. Does the voltage to the heating element need to be 120VAC and how do I check it. Is there anything else in this circuit that it can be besides the control panel? I ask because the cost of the control panel is 1/3 the cost of the entire dishwasher when purchased. When I run the heating cycle the element is cold to the touch.
My wife shut the water off to the dishwasher and forgot to turn it back on and then used the dishwasher.
the heating element went on but there was nop water.
when we turned the water back on,the drying cycle does not work.i would think that the element needs to be changed or is there a relay on the computer board?
this is a two year old Jennair unit.
any suggestions?
Rclay How old is your dish washer? It has up to five years limited (parts only) warranty on the electronic control. If it is within this period of time, then you can call Maytag and they will send you a new part. If you are not sure how old is it, you can find it with Maytag by the model and the serial numbers (on the door frame). The warranty for your dish washer you can get here: http://www.maytag.com/cust_serv/pdf_use_care_manual/6_915728.pdf Gendos...post back
Hello preslncon - The black button that you are referring to is more than likely the Hi-Limit Thermostat. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will open and stop power from reaching the heating element. The Hi-Limit is not resettable, and if it is open, it would need replacing. As far as the burnt wire on the Thermostat, more than likely a loose connection to the Thermostat could have possibly caused the wire to overheat. This is not a typical do it yourself job. Personally, I would recommend reaching out to a qualified appliance repair person to proceed further. I hope this information helps to some degree.
1,290 views
Usually answered in minutes!
Thanks Gendos,
Very good info. My luck, it was purchased 5years and 6 months ago. However for future do it yourselfers, when I pulled the control panel circuit board to order, I discovered that the supply leg of the K1 relay, which passes the voltage to the heating element had a bad solder connection on the back side of the board. A drop of solder on this connection and it is back in business. My dilema was they do not provide the schematic for the board to trace the signals, but I figured it out.
Thanks for the help.
Rclay.
I have 120 volts on what I assume is the fuse on the board. The heating element checks good.
×