My Kenmore gas range cooktop works great but oven will stop cooking after a several minutes even thought the control panel says it's sill cooking? It's happened 2x now when I get my food out i

The Kenmore Elite 790.9505 range is a kitchen appliance designed for cooking and baking. It features a variety of burners, including a powerful 18,000 BTU Turbo Boil burner and a simmer burner for delicate foods. The oven has a large capacity and offers convection cooking for even baking and roasting. The range also includes a number of convenient features, such as a self-cleaning oven, electronic controls, and a built-in timer. Overall, the Kenmore Elite 790.9505 range is a versatile and high-performing appliance that can help make cooking and baking easier and more efficient.

On the back of the stove are 2 blower fans just under the cooktop. They are cooling fans to keep the controls from overheating. They are a long tube type fan and are left and right side. My guess is one or both are not coming on. They are controlled by a round disk temp control also under the cooktop. At a preset temp these fans should come on and keep all the control area cool enough to stop any damage. The fans need tested and maybe the temp control needs replaced.

I'm sorry, but the model number given in the question is either wrong or incomplete. Please check that model number. Usually, on Kenmore ranges, you can find the model # and serial # on either the left or right side of the storage or warmer drawer. Open the drawer and look on the frame of the range for a label. On a few ranges, the label is affixed to the frame between the oven door and the drawer.
As an alternative, please post a clear picture of the control panel.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/ronald_e6b9572cebe3ad27

Sounds like the igniter is going or has gone. In modern stoves there is no pilot light. The gas is ignited via a high temperature igniter. Over the years I've had a couple of them go out. The symptoms are identical to what you're seeing. Pull out all of the shelves and to bottom tray (covering the burners). You'll probably need a screw driver to get the tray out. You will see a curious looking device with wires running into it. That's the igniter. Do a Google search and identify the part, order it and replace it.

There is a thermostat which detects when the temperature from the cooktop is too high, and it makes the hood vent exhaust fan come on to cool it to protect the controller.

That's I always recommend that you use the vent fan whenever you're cooking on the stove top to keep heat, steam, and grease out of the controls and door panels.

Assuming the wall outlet is good, the first thing I would suggest is a hard reset. Unplug the unit for a minute or so. Then plug it back in, set the clock and try again.

If that doesn't work, leave it unplugged for about 5 minutes.

If it's still dead, another thermostat may be blown,or the fuse.

You can find links to helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts here.

I'd recommend that your bookmark this link to your favorites.

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

Usually the fuse and magnetron thermostat will be accessible for testing behind the controller.

If those are good, then it may be a bad oven cavity thermostat, and checking that will require you to remove the oven from the wall and take off the outer cover.

Behind the controls in many microwaves is a technical sheet, which helps in locating and testing components.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

721.80019401 (without spaces) is the correct model number.

If it was the cooktop lamp(s) that went out, I would suspect that it shorted, damaging the control circuit board.

We see and repair this problem on a regular basis with our $39.95 repair service.

Or you can order a new control circuit board (part number 6871W1S354A) for $75.80 from the Sears Parts Direct Web site.

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

hey thats not a hard one for you.kill the power to your range [breaker ok]under neath the cook top frount where the top of oven door meets the cook top.in there are screews into the cook top .remove and lift up cook top it is hinged in the back .clean ,then put back together.you got it God bless ,tom

I have a Thermador Gas Range PG364GDBS - Oven, 4 burners, and center griddle. All are gas. The four burners and gas oven work fine. The griddle just stopped working, no spark. Turning on the griddle control, the gas valve opens(hear it), gas flows (smell it), but the ignitor will not spark (no loud or faint spark that I can hear). I got a replacement ignition device (mount at the burner) thinking it might be the problem, but still no spark. I checked the AC voltage at the terminal and measured 39 VAC between the terminal and ground. Not sure if that is the correct voltage. Any insights or advice would be great.

There is a cooktop PCB (power control board) which is separate from the oven. Perhaps that is the problem. That board is located behind the cooktop control membrane panel.

We had this problem as well, our's locked and we were not able to unlock it.

We found that holding down the stop/clear button on he bottom right of the key pad for 3 consecutive seconds releases the lock.

The locked oven wording will blink for about a minute and then the oven is released completely.

So frustrating...I accidently hit the option while cooking. Talk about panic. I needed to use the oven.