Re: furnace keeps running, no heat

Clean pilot , replace thermo couple if it looks burnt out clean flame sensor

It's a little unusual to add a humidifier in Florida. The ambient humidity is usually high enough.

But anyway, if you want to do this and assuming you have central air with forced air heating, you could install the humdifier in a standard configuration, then use a sail switch or differential pressure switch in the supply air duct to turn the humidifier off or on when you are in the heating mode only. The sail or differential switch will ensure that the unit can't run unless air is moving and you can tie the humidistat in to the first heat stage.

Sounds like dirty flame sensor. You can either clean it orreplace it.

sounds like to me you have a condensation pump attached to your hvac system. this can be used to pump water produced during the cooling of your house when in the a/c mode. if you have a typical bypass humidifier, you will have excess water running past the water panel and it must be sent to a drain of some kind. I would imagine the pump is being used to get your bypass water to the drain. another scenario may be that you have a 90% condensing furnace. if your exhaust pipe for the furnace is made out of pcv pipe, it is a condensing gas furnace. it will produce water when it is running. the water if from the combustion gases being condensed in the secondary heat exchanger. this is normal. some condensing gas furnaces will draw combustion air from inside the house and some will have a second pvc pipe that is used to pulll combustion air from the outside of the house. either way, it is not dehumidifying your house. the humidifier should be able to keep up if it is runnng properly. you should have water running out the bottom drain of the humidifier any time the fan on your furnace is running and the humidistat is calling for humidity. if this is not happening, it is not wired properly.

The pressure switch is not allowing the igniter to heat up. Pressure switch is blocked or the flue is blocked. Take the draft fan off and inspect the flue. Also inspect the rubber hose connecting the fan and pressure switch make sure the ends are tight. Make sure the hose is clear and not restricted. And the pressure switch sometimes is position sensitive. I don't think it has been moved or anything. And very rarely do they go bad.

It is possible you may have wired it wrong. Make sure your humidifer is not robbing power from your thermostat. This would explain when your humidifer makes a demand to come on it robs power from your t-stat making it lose its call for heat. Wire your humidistat to the "w" terminal and the common terminal so it only runs on a call for heat. With the bypass type of humidifier you purchased it wont do you any good to run when the heat isn't running anyway. If you want an independent operation humidifier you need a steam type.

the power to your furnace has been turn off. check the switch at the top of the stairs.

Hello Genna,
I am not a furnace guy but I may be able to give you a few ideas of things to diagnose the problem and get it resolved. First off, I assume you have a thermostat that you use to to turn your heat on. If it is a generic ( meaning : non programmable model) then you should be able to try this simple test. Remove the cover ( typically they snap on) around the thermostat so you can see the control mechanism inside. You should see few skinny wires ( similar to those used on a telephone wire) solid copper in various colors.. When you rotate the dial on your thermostat to call for heat, there is a small glass vial that has a drop of mercury ( which is electrically conductive) in it that makes contact and shorts two control wires together ad that is what calls for heat on your furnace. When the temp inside the room where the thermostat is reaches the tempertaure you requested, the bimetal mechanism either contracts or expands to reposition that glass vial to shift the mercury off the contacts and your furnace shuts off... That is the basics behind how your thermostat and furnace work ( generally speaking) If you can identify the two wires inside the thermosat that are shorted together when that vial of mercury shorts them inside it.. you can temproarily unhook them ( they are low voltage.. normally 24 Volts or less) so no worries about getting ashock or anything.. and short them together for a minute or two.. by doing that... your furnace should turn on and heat should flow.... Once you start your furnace this way.. unhook these two wires and your furnace should shut down .. It may take a minute or two ( depending on the control for it) If it doesn't..then your problem is on the furnace side and you may need to get the furnace control system serviced or replaced.. if it does shut down, then your problem is your thermostat and thats a simple replacement.. Also.. make sure the thermostat was properly leveled on its base.. The position of the thermostat ( meaning level) will dictate when that mercury makes contact and your furnace switches on.. OK..I tried to explain the works of this to you but here is a link to a Honeywell site that explains it in simpler terms.. The part about shorting the two wires together and then opening them will aid you in identifying where the problem actually is.. here is the link: http://homerepair.about.com/od/heatingcoolingrepair/ss/thermostat.htm

Hope this helps you more than confuses you..
Regards

Turn the control knob to the test/reset position untill the change water panel light blinks to reset the change panel timer. Make shure the furnace is running calling for heat.Turn control knob to prior setting after resetting timer. Hope this helps.

I would guess from the info provided that you only have two wires going to your thermostat which would explain why the fan switch doesn't work on the thermostat. You can bypass the thermostat as a first step in troubleshooting. After that it depends on the type of furnace, standing pilot or electronic ignition...