KitchenAid KHMS145J Microwave Oven Logo
Posted on Dec 01, 2008
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I have a KHMS 155 LSS microwave (above cook top model with extract fan) with erratic operation. The unit will not heat and "F2" appears on the digital readout with an alarm sounding. If the unit power is disconnected and reconnected the problem resolves it's self. At times it also happans when the cook top is in use and the underside of the microwave gets very hot from radiant heat.

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William Miller

William Miller

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  • KitchenAid Master 9,179 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 02, 2008
William Miller
KitchenAid Master
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Joined: Sep 15, 2006
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You have a shorting membrane keypad.

If you (or someone you know) might want to replace it yourself, I have uploaded a handy guide with pictures showing you what's typically involved.

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.

If you would like to have us do this for you, we do that for $39.95 plus part costs, about $55-65 in this case.

Feel free to contact me directly (and please remind me of your full model number) for more information & help.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller
[email protected]
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

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My Ewave Model #KOT-153UB operates fully but does not heat up. Is this fixable?
The part that makes the heat isn't too expensive. It may be a fuse . If it is then you have to find the cause of it failing. You don't say whether it's a table top or over the cook top style microwave. If it's over the cook top it's a chore getting it down for service. Check an appliance repair company to see if the repair costs are way less than the cost of a new one. If it is then go ahead with the repair.
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Aug 04, 2008 • Samsung MW1030WA Microwave Oven
tip

Troubleshooting Guide
  • Problem: Totally dead oven.
    Possible causes:
    1. No power to outlet (blown fuse or tripped breaker or GFCI).
    2. Blown main fuse - likely due to other problems.
    3. Open thermal protector or thermal fuse.
    4. Defective controller or its power supply.
    5. Clock needs to be set before other functions will operate (some models).

  • Problem: Totally dead oven after repair.
    Possible causes:
    1. Cabinet screws replaced in incorrect location (safety interlock not engaged).
    2. Any number of screwups. :)

  • Problem: No response to any buttons on touchpad.
    Possible causes:
    1. Door is not closed (some models).
    2. You waited to long (open and close door to wake it up).
    3. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    4. Defective interlock switches.
    5. Faulty controller or its power supply.
    6. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    7. Defective/damaged touchpad.

  • Problem: Oven runs when door is still open.
    Possible causes:
    1. Damaged interlock assembly.
    2. Cooling fans (only) running due to bad sensor or still warm.

  • Problem: Oven starts on its own as soon as door is closed.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective triac or relay.
    2. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    3. Defective controller or its power supply.
    4. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    5. Defective/damaged touchpad.

  • Problem: Oven works but display is blank.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective controller or its power supply.
    2. Broken display panel.
    3. Oven needs to be reset (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).

  • Problem: Whacked out controller or incorrect operation.
    Possible causes:
    1. Previous or multipart cook cycle not complete.
    2. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    3. Defective controller or its power supply.
    4. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    5. Defective/damaged touchpad.
    6. Defective sensor (particulalry covection/mirowave combos).

  • Problem: Erratic behavior.
    Possible causes:
    1. Previous or multipart cook cycle not complete.
    2. Bad connections in controller or microwave generator.
    3. Faulty relay - primary (or HV side, much less commonly used).
    4. Defective controller or its power supply.
    5. Bad contacts/connections on mechanical timers. Intermittent fuse.
    6. Power surge at start of cook cycle confusing controller.
    7. Microwave (RF) leakage into electronics bay.

  • Problem: Some keys on the touchpad do not function or perform the wrong action.
    Possible causes:
    1. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    2. Defective/damaged touchpad.
    3. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    4. Faulty controller.

  • Problem: Microwave oven does not respond to START button.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective START button.
    2. Faulty interlock switches.
    3. Door is not securely closed.
    4. Faulty controller.
    5. You waited too long - open and close door to wake it up!

  • Problem: No heat but otherwise normal operation.
    Possible causes:
    1. Blown fuse in HV transformer primary circuit or HV fuse (if used).
    2. Bad connections (particularly to magnetron filament).
    3. Open thermal protector or thermal fuse.
    4. Open HV capacitor, HV diode, HV transformer, or magnetron filament.
    5. Shorted HV diode, HV capacitor (will blow a fuse), or magnetron.
    6. Defective HV relay (not commonly used).

  • Problem: Timer and light work but no heat, cooling fan, or turntable rotation.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective (lower) door interlock switch or door not closing fully.
    2. Faulty relay or triac.

  • Problem: Fuse blows when closing or opening door:
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective door interlock switch(s).
    2. Interlock switch knocked out of position.
    3. Misaligned door.

  • Problem: Loud hum and/or burning smell when attempting to cook.
    Possible causes:
    1. Shorted HV diode, magnetron.
    2. Burnt carbonized food in or above oven chamber.
    3. Shorted winding in HV transformer.
    4. Frayed insulation on HV wiring.

  • Problem: Arcing in or above oven chamber.
    Possible causes:
    1. Burnt carbonized food deposits.
    2. Exposed sharp metal edges.

  • Problem: Fuse blows when initiating cook cycle.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective interlock switches or misaligned door.
    2. Shorted HV capacitor.
    3. Shorted HV diode.
    4. Shorted magnetron (probably won't blow main fuse but HV fuse if used).
    5. Defective triac.
    6. Old age or power surges.
    7. Defective HV transformer.
    8. Short in wiring due to vibration or poor manufacturing.

  • Problem: Fuse blows when microwave shuts off (during or at end of cook cycle).
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective triac (doesn't turn off properly).
    2. Defective relay.
    3. Shorting wires.

  • Problem: Oven heats on high setting regardless of power setting.
    Possible causes:
    1. Faulty primary relay or triac or HV relay (not commonly used).
    2. Faulty controller.

  • Problem: Oven immediately starts to cook when door is closed.
    Possible causes:
    1. Shorted relay or triac.
    2. Faulty controller.

  • Problem: Oven heats but power seems low or erratic.
    Possible causes:
    1. Low line voltage.
    2. Magnetron with low emission.
    3. Faulty controller or set for wrong mode.
    4. Stirrer (or turntable) not working.
    5. Intermittent connections to magnetron filament or elsewhere.
    6. Faulty primary relay or triac or HV relay (not commonly used).

  • Problem: Oven heats but shuts off randomly.
    Possible causes:
    1. Overheating due to blocked air vents or inoperative cooling fan.
    2. Overheating due to bad magnetron.
    3. Bad connections in controller or microwave generator.
    4. Faulty interlock switch or marginal door alignment.
    5. Faulty controller.
    6. Overheating due to extremely high line voltage.
    7. Stuck stirrer fan resulting hot spots detected by sensors.

  • Problem: Oven makes (possibly erratic) buzzing noise when heating.
    Possible causes:
    1. Fan blades hitting support or shroud.
    2. Vibrating sheet metal.
    3. Vibrating transformer laminations.
    4. Turntable or stirrer hitting some debris.

  • Problem: Oven light does not work.
    Possible causes:
    1. Burnt out bulb :-).
    2. Bad connections.

  • Problem: Fans or turntables that do not work.
    Possible causes:
    1. Gummed up lubrication or bad motor bearing(s).
    2. Loose or broken belt.
    3. Bad motor.
    4. Bad thermostat.
    5. Bad connections.
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on Mar 30, 2008 • Kenmore 80412 Microwave Oven
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1answer

My fan for the stove reduces power once the microwave is turned on
you must understand that any manufacturer has the proper design engineering from to save electricity, etc. And they using the new concept of reingeenering.
If the microwaves do not HEAT and working, do not worry.
God bless you3_6_2013_11_44_13_pm.gif
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Mar 06, 2013 • Microwave Ovens
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Just like others, the microwave component does not work. Convection works just fine. Before microwave quit, it appeared to have something to do with the door(?) I would put a napkin b/w door and by...
If the inside light, fan and turntable come on when you try to cook, but it does not heat, this is probably a bad primary interlock (top door switch) or possibly that switch's mount is bad.

See this file on safety, and this file on door switches.

We have the full service / installation manual for this unit, and have uploaded it here to help you.

If the inside light, fan and turntable do not come on when you try to cook, the 20A fuse is probably bad or loose in its holder.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
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Aug 18, 2010 • GE Advantium SCA2000B Microwave Oven
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Everything appears to be working with our microwave except it is not heating or cooking. All other functions appear to be o.k. I am not 100% sure of the model number and I'm not at my house to get that...
To allow us to help you effectively (at no charge), please post a NEW problem to FixYa, and please include your brand name and the full model number from the tag in or on the unit, your symptoms ("runs but no heat"), as well as the answers to these questions:

- When you try to microwave are the inside light, internal cooling fan and turntable all working?

- Is there any unusual noise or is it louder or quieter than normal?

(A loud buzz, hum, or groan is usually a shorted high voltage rectifier diode, but a sound like gurgling into an empty coffee mug is one symptom of a failed magnetron, and yet the mag can be bad without that sound.)

We have a sound clip here of what a microwave should sound like when the cooling fan and high voltage section are working.
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Nov 22, 2009 • Goldstar MV-1615 Microwave Oven
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Acceptable distance from cook top surface to microwave?
Sorry but your subject line got cut off. I'll assume you're talking about the distance from the cooktop to the top of the microwave (bottom of the cabinet to which it's mounted).

Here's how the installation instructions spec it:
  • "Make sure the bottom edge of the cabinet that will be above the microwave oven is at least 66" from the floor and 30" from the cooking surface."
So it's measured from the cooktop to the top of the microwave, not the bottom edge.

And I always recommend that you use the vent fan whenever you're cooking on the stove top to keep heat, steam, and grease out of the controls and door panels.

You can also download your owner's manual form the link I posted above.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
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Jun 25, 2009 • Hotpoint RVM1425 Microwave Oven
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Ge jvm1540dm2ww over the range unit: have a gas range and the fan on the above mounted microwave once in awhile turns on automatically while something is cooking on the range below it....
The heat sensor in the electronics panel senses the rise in heat from the stove below. Once the amount of heat reaches a certain level, the cooling fan turns on to keep the electronics inside the microwave cooled.

I wouldn't worry about it. mine does the same thing.
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Jun 19, 2009 • Microwave Ovens
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Does stove-top need downdraft if microwave has oven-hood combo?
We have a stove with no downdraft, and a microwave with a hood above it. It works just fine. I expect you could keep your downdraft and put a microwave without a hood above it, and that would also work. I don't think, however, you can buy an above the range mocrowave oven, that slides in on brackets, which will not have a hood.
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Jan 08, 2009 • Microwave Ovens
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Microwave stopped working completely
Fan turned on after cooking because a thermostat got to hot and tripped turning on the fan to try to cool the unit.  The unit went completely dead when thermal fuse tripped which is located above the cavity on the left side.
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