After cooling for about 20 minutes, then it will mow fine and turn fine. Then after mowing for about 30 minutes it will decide it doesn't want to turn left any more. We stop the mower, let it cool, then start all over again until it happens again. 30 minutes mowing, 30 minutes cooling, etc.
SOURCE: kawasaki 29hp FI liquid cooled - after 30+minutes engine smothers
Might be worth looking to see if you've got a bit of water in your fuel. Next time it suffers, crack open the drain on the bottom of the carburretor float bowl and see what comes out.
If it doesn't smell very strongly of gas right from the outset, it isn't gas.
To deal with it, see if your fuel filter has a water drain at the bottom. If it does, then you probably just need to empty it a bit more often. If it doesn't, then drain your fuel system completely (start at the tank, finish at the carb) then refuel with freshly bought gas.
A.
SOURCE: Poulan Pro model 185H42ST dies after 30-45 minutes mowing
Put a carb kit in it. If that does not work replace the gas cap they are supposed to breath and if they get clogged it will create a vacuum in the tank starving the engine for fuel.
SOURCE: I have a Murray riding lawn mower Model 425600x8A.
The oil entered the cyliders when the mower was tipped at a severe angle. It will clear out after you run it for awhile. Check the oil level to make sure it is full. It could even be overfull and this is what caused the smoke. If it starts to run badly, check the spark plug or plugs. They could get "fouled" from the oil. Change the if the are black or covered with oil. It shouldn't have done any damage to the engine.
SOURCE: Blown fuses when mowing
you have a wire that is shorting out somewhere, i would trace the wires from the clutch all the way back to the fuse including the relay and pto switch. You will more than likely find your problem in the control circuit between the fuse, pto switch and relay since this is what is fuse protected.
SOURCE: I have a Cub Cadet RZT 50 mower. The left drive
First, check the level of the hydraulic fluid (usually the dipstick is right inside the fill cap, and you just raise the seat to access it). If it's low, fill 'er up with the right fluid.
If that's OK, test if the lack of 'pull' affects the left wheel in both forward and reverse -- try going up a hill forward, and backing up it in reverse. If it affects both directions, maybe you will be lucky -- the problem could be that the bypass for the left hydraulic motor has opened somehow. (The bypass is used to let you push the mower by hand in case of an engine failure, etc.) So look for a fat-headed bolt sticking out of the left hydraulic motor. Check that it's tight -- rotate it just like you would tighten a bolt, clockwise. If it wasn't tight, that may be the problem; just tighten it and try the mower.
If this doesn't resolve it, you probably have a problem in the hydraulic valves, hoses, or motor, and a trip to the dealer is needed. Probably won't be cheap, sorry my friend. Good luck, and please rate if this was helpful, thanks!
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