Removed my oven gas electric & down draft . plumber had to do some work . installed 2 days later . the gas works the igniter works the oven & broiler does not . the elements do not get hot

Hello. I need the make/model number to help you accurately. It sounds like the bake ignitor is worn out and not consistently igniting the gas. How old is the unit? If it has more than a few years on it, the ignitor can wear--it might glow, but not enough to ignite gas. Remove the racks.Remove the bottom cover of the oven(usually there are 2 screws, right and left side at the rear, inside the oven. There usually will be a heavy steel flame shield held on by a single nut underneath the cover. Remove this shield. This will expose the ignitor(called a glow bar). One of the classic symptoms of a worn bar is that the center of the glow material will turn bright orange but not the rest of the resistive material. Also, you can test the viability of the bar using a meter. Normal amp draw on either of the 2 wires connected to it should have approximately 4 amps. Use a clamp-on voltage/ohm meter set to amps. Under normal conditions, the electric gas valve senses the current draw and will open, letting in gas to ignite. From activating "bake" to ignition *usually* takes 20 to 30 seconds. If you find yours is worn, HANDLE THE REPLACEMENT GENTLY. Don't knock it, drop it, or touch the resistive material. It is FRAGILE AND BREAKS EASILY(ask me how I know this!)The mount screws(usually 2) can become seized due to heat. Take your time removing them. Another symptom of a worn ignitor can be the "WHOOF" sound of too much gas building up in the oven prior to ignition. I've seen oven doors knocked open by too much gas saturation suddenly igniting from a slow glow bar. I hope I helped you!

clock must be set to correct time or it will hinder proper operation of oven

Gas ovens / stovetop that use gas and not electricity. These work by igniting gas and use actual flame on the the stovetop.
Newest cook top styles, such as the induction or halogen cook tops combine the same style to produce more even heating. Some of these ovens feature thermal limiters or thermostats that regulate the burner system. GAS OVENS 1)The spark igniter tip is dirty (can clean it with either a little wire brush or a piece of fine sandpaper).

2) The Pilot flame is too low, and the tip of the igniter is not in the flame good enough. (the flame acts as a circuit when it touches the tip & completes the circuit).

3) The spark module is no good and needs to be replaced.(But 1 & 2 are your best bet).
spark module does not sense the flame when it's on. The spark igniter is also the flame sensor which provides feedback to the spark module.

Make sure the igniter is properly aligned with the burner lighting holes and it is clean. All lighting holes must be clean too. You can enlarge them using a drill bit one size bigger.

If it would not fix the problem, replace the bake burner and the igniter.

There is a small chance for the spark module itself to be bad as well.
ELECTRIC OVENS:

CHECK THE OVEN RELAY CONTROL BOARD Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.

You need a Gas tech/plumber there urgently!!!!
If the gas jets in your oven had not been changed to accomodate LP gas then the orifice on your existing jets are still to large in diameter. In other words your using Natural Gas jets ( lower pressure jets) for Lp which has a much higher pressure than Nat. gas, this can be extremely dangerous, & could cause major problems.
Again I strongly suggest you contact a Gas tech/Plumber & do not use your oven until it has beeen checked by a professional.Good luck

see this causes and fix it: God bless you

IGNITER

If your gas oven is not heating, the igniter is the most likely the cause. This is a simple gas oven repair. To check the igniter, remove the storage drawer and the bottom of the oven (only if you are working on the bake burner). Now turn on the oven and observe, from a distance, the burner that is not heating. In a minute or so the igniter should glow red. If not, unplug power from oven. Then unplug the igniter and using your ohmmeter ,check to see if you have continuity between the two wires going to the igniter. If you don't have continuity, replace the igniter. If you do have continuity the igniter is still the likely problem, If you turned on the oven and the igniter did glow red, the igniter still is most likely the problem. This video will walk you through properly testing an oven igniter. You have to have an amp meter to check for sure, but I would not suggest buying an amp meter just to check this because 99% of the time its going to be the igniter. So I suggest just replacing the igniter. For those of you that already have an amp meter, clamp the amp meter on one of the wires going to the igniter then turn on the oven. If your igniter is round, the amp meter should read 2.6 to 3.0. If you have a flat igniter then the amp meter should read 3.3 to 3.6. If the amps are not in this range, the gas valve will not open to release gas to the igniter. To repair this, replace the igniter.

BURNER CLOGGED

This is another simple gas oven repair and it's one thing you may need to check before you change any parts. The burner has a lot of small holes that connect the flame all the way around the burner. If one of these small holes is stopped up, the burner will not light properly. To repair this, simply use a large needle or thin wire to clean each hole out. Note that this is not a very common problem but if this does fix your oven, it will save you a lot of money.

GAS VALVE

If your gas oven is not heating, the gas valve may be your problem. If your igniter isn't bad then the gas valve is the problem. This is a very uncommon failure in most ovens. But this is not a simple gas oven repair and it's best if this is changed by a professional because if the gas valve leaks it can be a major fire hazard and you have to adjust the valve to the kind of gas you are using.

Main Control

This is the last thing to check. If you have no power to the igniter when the oven is turned on the main control is the likely problem. On glowbar style igniters if you have no reading and there is continuity of the igniter replace the main control. On ovens with electronic igniters (these are the ones that click) these ovens have a separate spark control module that sends the power to the igniter. This can be difficult to check but in general if you have no power reaching the igniter the spark module or igniter module (there are many different names for this part) would need replacing.

The problem is usually the igniter not reaching the correct amp draw .When the igniter does not reach the correct amp draw it may allow the gas valve to partially open or not open at all. The igniters are inexpensive and easy to replace. This video will walk you thru the correct procedure for testing an oven igniter. It may be a different model but the testing will be the same.You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations of your specific model. Not all models are available. All parts come with installation instructions.

the electric ignition is bad and needs replaced in oven. I had the same problem a few months ago and it was the ignitor for the oven. if replacing it yourself, be very careful with ignitor, it is very fragil. do not touch ignitor itself, hold on to it by the base of it. they are not that hard to change.

If its gas change the oven ignitor. It has to draw enough current to open the gas valve. So its only working half the time. Replace the oven ignitor and it will fix it.

The technical jargon is,.....:
In order for your gas oven to work this is what has to happen: 1. when you turn on the oven, the range sends 120 volts to the glow bar igniter. 2. as the igniter heats up (and starts to glow) it starts using more electricity. 3. when the electric use reaches a set amount (say 3.2 amps) the range knows the glow bar igniter is hot enough to ignite the gas, so it then releases gas through the gas safety valve. 4. when the thermostat tells the oven controller that the temperature has been reached, the control cuts power to the igniter, cutting the amp draw down, causing the safety gas valve to close. 5. process repeats to hold oven temp until you turn off oven.

So,..........the solution is:
most likely your oven igniter burnt out. Find your model number, usually on the range frame just behind the lower drawer or broiler drawer (depending on if it is a self clean gas range or not) and order the correct igniter and replace it.

It probably needs an oven igniter. Remove oven racks. Remove oven floor. Usually 2 screws towards back. Remove flame spreader if it has one. You can see long tube with holes in sides and igniter with 2 wires from rear. Now try oven. See if igniter glows. If it does but doesn't light within 1 minute, replace igniter.
If it doesn't glow, you need to check for power to igniter. Should be about 100 volts. If not may need ERC, "Electronic Range Control".

CG, unfortunately you replaced the wrong part. The problem with your oven is the igniter. The igniter is wired in series with a safety valve. The safety valve monitors the amount of electrical current flowing through the igniter when you ask it to "bake".  When the igniter gets "weak" it won't allow current to flow through it properly, this will keep the oven from heating. It will also cause your symptoms as well...

Here's the scenario; Say your safety valve is "looking" for 2.5 amps of electricity flowing through it before it'll open up and allow gas to the manifold. Your igniter is designed to allow 2.8-3.2 amps to flow in good operating condition, but your igniter has become "weak"... it's now allowing 2.48-2.51 amps. The safety valve is sensing this and opening and closing rapidly, allowing gas to flow through it (fluttering). BUT! the igniter is not hot enough to ignite the gas and/or there is not enough gas to ignite do to the fluttering effect of the valve. Sometimes it'll light sometimes it won't.

Your igniter is the cause and needs to be replaced.

Before you begin the repair, you should have the new part on hand. The part number is WB2X9154 and can be purchased at your local appliance parts retailer for about $50.00. Here's one online for $65.00.

First, UNPLUG YOUR OVEN!

To replace it... Remove the racks and lower panel (oven floor). This will expose the burner manifold where the igniter is mounted.  (It's the round thing on the manifold near the back... it has 2 wires going into it.) You'll need a 1/4" socket or nut driver to remove it.

(*TIP---> before removing the screws from the igniter, put a few drops of liquid dish soap on the threads to lubricate them. If you do this, you will not strip the threads of the screws and it will ease their removal.)

The new igniter kit will have two ceramic wire nuts in it. Cut the two wires off of the old igniter and strip them back about 3/8". Then connect the wires of your new one to the wires in the oven using the ceramic wire nuts provided. Then mount the new igniter and rebuild the oven.

(*TIP---> The new igniter is very fragile! [that's why it came wrapped tightly in bubble wrap] Handle it gently!)

There ya go! Total job time? ~45 minutes.