It has been making a considerable rattle and has been getting louder and louder. it is an uneven rattle but not a metallic sound (i.e does NOT sound like a metal on metal problem). I just changed the oil and flushed the system and the sound seems to have died down and is less frequent. it seems to be coming from the inlet manifold. Is there a quick/cheap fix?? Thanks in advance
The baffle inside the inlet manifold has become loose, and it is a three part plastic glued unit. replacment cost $920 Australian and I have contacted toyota and there are none in Australia! Oh what a feeling!
Quick fix and cheap drain a quart of oil out of the motor then get a quart of LUCUS oil conditioner add to the motor oil. about (12-15 dollars) it worked to quite the little 2.0 that has always had a little lifter/valve noise,
SOURCE: 1994 camry oil leak
Before you start removing the oil pan to reseal it, you need to rectify the leak between the oil cooler and the block. Interestingly enough, (in a pinch) the rubber gasket from the (genuine) Toyota oil filter is the same gasket that seals the cooler to the block. Aftermarket filter gaskets will NOT work. Remove the filter, carefully take off the gasket, remove the oil cooler, take off the old rubber gasket, and put the oil filter's gasket onto the cooler, and bolt it all back up. (You should buy this gasket from a dealer) Clean the area real good with cleaner, and THEN check for additional leaks.
Hope this helps, and THNAKS for choosing FixYa. Please feel free to comment back if you need any additional info. The graciousness of a FIxYa rating would be greatly appreciated.
SOURCE: 2007 4 cylinder camry se
Their is a huge difference between leaking and using oil. place a large piece of carboard under the car one night and see if their is a lot of oil on the carboard the next moring. If so, try to look under the car and see if you can tel where the oil is coming from. Have the leak fixed. It might be as simple as loose bolts. If the engine is consuming oil because it has high mileage the use regular 10w40 or even 20w40 if you are in a warmer climate. If it is using oil you cannot afford to use the high priced synthetics. These are for relitively new cars .As it uses oil just replace it with the regular 20-w40 or 10w40. To slow down consumption use STP or MOTOR HONEY.or some other oil thickening agent on the market made for worn engines.
Testimonial: "U r thinkin along the same lines as i am. Just was a little hesitant 2 use a much heavier oil than recommended. It iz ok, right????"
SOURCE: camry 1993 oil pump
No reason to toss the engine then. The oil pump drive sprocket is located behind the timing cover and he would have had to remove a lot of things to have definitively told you it was the pump leaking. Even then, you shouldn't have to replace it. It's far more likely to be a crank or cam seal that's leaking. Just the fact that he told you 1200 bucks would make me run, it's a 6.5 hour job to change the pump. I would suggest taking it somewhere else. Without knowing the service history, this is what I would do if it were my car: Since you have to remove the timing cover to get at the oil leak, I would take to a Toyota dealer and have them attack it as a timing belt job, tell them; "while you're in there, fix the oil leaks and replace the water pump". The labor for all of this is about 4.5 hours (~$450.) + parts (timing belt, water pump, seals (~$250). This gets you a whole bunch of maintenance for about 800 bucks. Now if you have had the waterpump and timing belt done already, you would be looking at 4 hrs labor and a handful of seals (~$30) to just fix the oil leaks.
Just out of curiosity, what part of the world are you in? My dollars relate to the Vancouver, Canada market.
SOURCE: Does a 1998 4 cylinder Camry have a timing belt or chain...
it has a belt, it's supposed to be replaced every 90,000 miles
SOURCE: I'll have to be more specific. 2010 toyota camry oil filter
Go to Google and enter "youtube toyota camry oil change." This is a fairly good video on how to address the oil change procedure that should be similar to your (and my) 2010 Camry LE, 2.5L; not exact, but you'll get the idea. Also, Google "Avalon oil change pdf" and click on the '05/'06 Avalon item to get a printable version that should also give help/hints for your 2010 2.5L. Now all we have to do is get permission from Toyota to waive the requirement for "only" 0W20 synthetic ($$$) in favor of either less expensive and more readily available 5W20 or 0W30 and extend the change interval from a very low 5000 miles to something more reasonable like 7500 miles or, better still, 10K! I've written to them to see what kind of answer they'll give, but am not hopeful of relief on that front. By the way, Lisle says their filter removal tool Pt. No. 54930 is the correct one and should be available from O'Reilly's Auto Parts; if not on shelf, should be orderable. Good Luck.
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