Riptide 55 wont steer

If, even with relief valve open you can't raise or lower the motor by hand, your tilt tube is stuck.
remove your steering cable.
Remove the 2 big nuts on the tilt tube;
unbolt the engine from the boat
unbolt the trim/tilt system from sb and pt bracket.
Remove brackets. Remove tilt tube from steering bracket
Clean everything
Replace the bushings
Use triple-guard grease everywhere on reassembly

Hi Nicholas, Im AL the owner of Big As Auto Repair.

FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR

REMOVE

1. Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. See Hoisting in the Lubrication and Maintenance section of this manual, for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle.
2. Remove the tire and wheel assembly from the vehicle.
3. Remove the speed sensor cable routing bracket Speed Sensor Cable Routing Brackets from the steering knuckle. Remove the wiring harness sealing grommet retainer and speed sensor routing bracket from the inner fender.
4. Remove speed sensor sealing grommet from the inner fender Wheel Speed Sensor Connection To Vehicle Wiring Harness Then unplug the speed sensor cable from the vehicle wiring harness Wheel Speed Sensor Connection To Vehicle Wiring Harness
5. Remove bolt Speed Sensor Head Attachment To Steering Knuckle attaching the speed sensor head to the steering knuckle. Then remove speed sensor head from steering knuckle. CAUTION: If speed sensor head locating pin has seized to the steering knuckle, do not attempt to remove speed sensor head by grasping with pliers and turning. This will damage the speed sensor head. Use only the following procedure.
   
6. If speed sensor head can not be removed from steering knuckle by hand, the locating pin on the speed sensor head has seized to the steering knuckle do to corrosion. Remove speed sensor head from steering knuckle using the following procedure. Remove disc brake caliper from steering knuckle, and remove brake rotor from hub/bearing assembly. Then insert a pin punch through hole in front steering knuckle Speed Sensor Head Removal From Steering Knuckle and tap speed sensor head locating pin out of steering knuckle.

Hope this helps and please visit my auto-repair-website at:
http://www.bigasautorepair.com/

ADJUSTMENT

Excessive belt tension will cause damage to the alternator and water pump pulley bearings, while, on the other hand, loose belt tension will produce slip and premature wear on the belt. Therefore, be sure to adjust the belt tension to the proper level.
To adjust the tension on a drive belt, loosen the adjusting bolt or fixing bolt locknut on the alternator, alternator bracket or tension pulley. Then move the alternator or turn the adjusting bolt to adjust belt tension. Once the desired value is reached, secure the bolt or locknut and recheck tension.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1.5L, 1.6L, 1.8L, 2.0L and 2.4L Engines

Fig. Accessory V-belt routing-Mitsubishi 1.5L, 1.6L, 1.8L, 2.0L and 2.4L engines
Alternator Belt

Fig. Loosen the adjuster lock bolt . . .

Fig. . . . then remove the alternator belt from the engine

1. Loosen the alternator support nut.
2. Loosen the adjuster lock bolt.
3. Rotate the adjuster bolt counter clockwise to release the tension on the belt.
4. Remove the belt.

To install:

1. Install the belt on the pulleys.
2. Rotate the adjuster bolt clockwise until the proper tension is reached.
3. Tighten the adjuster lock bolt and the alternator support nut.

POWER STEERING BELT

Fig. After the adjusting and fixed bolts are loosened, rotate the pump . . .

Fig. . . . then remove the power steering belt from the engine

1. Remove the alternator belt as described above.
2. Loosen the power steering pump adjusting bolts.
3. Remove the power steering pump fixed bolt on the rear of the bracket.
4. Rotate the pump toward the engine and remove the belt.

To install:

1. Install the belt on the pulleys.
2. Rotate the pump until the proper tension is reached.
3. Tighten the adjusting bolts on the pump.
4. Tighten the fixed bolt on the rear of the bracket.
5. Install the alternator belt.

A/C COMPRESSOR BELT

1. Loosen the tension pulley and remove the belt.
2. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

3.0L DOHC, 3.0L SOHC Galant, and 3.5L Engines

Fig. Serpentine belt routing-Mitsubishi 3.0L engines (except 1998-00 Galant models)

Fig. Accessory V-belt routing-Mitsubishi 3.5L and 1998-00 3.0L SOHC Galant engines
ALTERNATOR AND A/C COMPRESSOR

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

CAUTION Wait at least 90 seconds after the negative battery cable is disconnected to prevent possible deployment of the air bag.

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle and remove the front undercover.
2. Loosen the tension pulley fixing nut and relieve the tension on the belt by turning the adjusting bolt.
3. Remove the belt.

To install:

1. Install the belt on the crankshaft and alternator pulleys.
2. Using the adjusting bolt on the tensioner, tighten the belt to the desired tension.
3. Tighten the fixing nut to hold the adjustment.
4. Install the undercover and lower the vehicle to the floor.
5. Connect the negative battery cable.

POWER STEERING BELT

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

CAUTION Wait at least 90 seconds after the negative battery cable is disconnected to prevent possible deployment of the air bag.

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle and remove the undercover.
2. Remove the alternator and A/C compressor belt.
3. Lower the vehicle and remove the cruise control pump link assembly.
4. Place the power steering hose under the oil reservoir.
5. Loosen the tension pulley fixing bolts and remove the power steering pump drive belt.

To install:

1. Install the power steering pump drive belt.
2. Insert an extension bar or equivalent into the opening at the end of the tension pulley bracket and pivot the pulley to apply tension to the belt.
3. Tighten the fixing bolts.
4. Raise the vehicle and install the alternator and A/C compressor belt.
5. Install the undercover and lower the vehicle.
6. Connect the negative battery cable.

3.0L SOHC Diamante

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Loosen the lockbolt on the face of the A/C tensioner pulley.
3. Turn the adjusting bolt of the A/C tensioner pulley to loosen the tension of the A/C belt.
4. Remove the A/C compressor belt.
5. Loosen the locknut on the face of the power steering/alternator tensioner pulley.
6. Turn the adjusting bolt of the tensioner pulley to loosen the tension of the belt.
7. Remove the power steering/alternator belt.

To install:

1. Install the power steering/alternator belt first and then the A/C compressor drive belt.
2. Adjust the belts to the proper tension by turning the adjusting bolts and tighten pulley fixing nut/bolt.
3. Tighten the mounting nut of the power steering/alternator tensioner pulley to 36 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).

This may or may not help,but i found this

REMOVE OR DISCONNECT

1. Disable the SIR System.
2. Battery negative cable.
3. Knee bolster and IP steering column reinforcement. NOTICE: The steering column should never be supported by only the lower support bracket alone, damage to the column lower bearing adapter could result.
4. Lower support bracket from vehicle (2 bolts).
5. Upper column support from IP (2 bolts).
6. Lower steering column so that it rests on the driver seat.
7. Ignition switch wiring protector.
8. Ignition switch retaining screw and nut.
9. Ignition and turn signal switch column harness connectors from IP harness.
10. Turn signal switch connector from column harness.
11. Ignition switch, harness, and connector. Important

o DO NOT splice ignition switch wires.

INSTALL OR CONNECT

1. Ignition switch, securing with retaining screws.

o Adjust ignition switch. Steering Column Unit Repair.

2. Turn signal switch connector to column harness.
3. Ignition and turn signal switch column harness connectors to IP harness.
4. Ignition switch wiring protector.
5. Raise steering column to support bracket.
6. Two bolts to upper support bracket. Do not tighten fully at this time.
7. Bolt and nut to lower support bracket.

o Align column to instrument panel opening. A small shim (wedge) placed between the instrument panel column support bracket and the column can be used to hold the column stationary while tightening the upper support bolts.
o Upper and lower column support bolts and nuts to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.).

8. IP steering column reinforcement plate and knee bolster.
9. Battery negative cable.
10. Enable the SIR system.
super vag k+can v4.8

Hello walker_227,

Removal Procedure:

SPECIAL TOOLS: You will need a power steering pulley remover and installer tool, DO NOT USE A HAMMER.

1. Remove the power steering pulley.
2. Raise the vehicle.
3. Remove the oil pan skid plate from the vehicle, if equipped.
4. Place a drain pan under the vehicle.
5. Remove the power steering pressure hose from the power steering pump from underneath the vehicle.
6. Lower the vehicle.
7. Remove the return hose from the power steering gearbox and the power steering pump.
8. Remove the bolt retaining the rear bracket to the engine.(See picture below)
9. Remove the bolts from the front of the pump.(See picture below)
10. Remove the pump from the vehicle.
11. Remove the bracket from the rear of the pump

Installation Procedure:

1. Reverse above procedure
2.Fill and bleed the power steering system.

Welcome to Fixya

here's the procedure on how to replace water pump of your car

1 Turn the belt tensioner pulley counterclockwise on the 3.4L modeal. Use a breaker bar and a socket to rotate the center bolt on the tensioner pulley. If you have a 3.5L engine model, turn the pulley clockwise.

2 Slide the drive belt off the steering pump pulley.

3 Detach the black ground cable from the battery using a wrench.

4 Position a drain pan under the car in the direction of the steering pump hoses.

5 Move any wire brackets near the steering pump out of the way using a wrench or ratchet and socket, if necessary.

6 Disconnect the return hose from the power steering pump by loosening the clamp at the steering pump using a ratchet and socket. Then pull the hose off the pump and let the steering fluid drain into the pan.

7 Detach the pressure hose from the steering pump by unscrewing the retaining nut at the pump using a tube wrench. Let the steering fluid drain on the pan.

8 Unscrew the steering-pump mounting bolts using a ratchet, ratchet extension and socket.

9 Lift the power steering pump off the engine compartment.

Install the New Steering Pump

1 Position the new steering pump in place and start the mounting bolts by hand. Then tighten the bolts using the ratchet, ratchet extension and socket.

2 Attach the pressure hose to the steering pump by starting the retaining nut by hand. Then tighten the nut using the tube wrench.

3 Connect the return hose to the steering pump. Then tighten the clamp using the ratchet and socket.

4 Reinstall any wire brackets you had to remove using a wrench or ratchet and socket.

5 Connect the black ground cable to the battery using a wrench.

6 Install the drive belt by turning the tensioner pulley counterclockwise using the breaker bar and socket. Then slide the belt over the steering pump pulley. If you have the Aztek 3.5L engine, turn the tensioner pulley clockwise.

7 Reinstall any wire brackets you had to remove form near the steering pump using the wrench or ratchet and socket.

8 Connect the black, ground cable to the battery using a wrench.

Bleed the Power Steering System

1 Refill the steering fluid reservoir with new steering fluid. Make sure the level reaches the Full Cold mark on the reservoir.

2 Raise the front of the vehicle using a floor jack until the front tires are off the ground. Then support the car on 2 jack stands.

3 Turn the ignition key to the On position but do not start the engine.

4 Turn the steering wheel fully from left to right 15 times.

5 Check the fluid level in the steering reservoir and add if necessary.

6 Lower the vehicle and start the engine. Turn the steering wheel and listen for steering noises. If you hear noises while turning the steering wheel, repeat steps 2 through 5 of the bleeding procedure to get rid of the air in the steering system. Turn off the engine.

Thank you for using Fixya!


If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/elixirjose_00375ea24bd8141b

At the centre of the handlebars you will note a bolt head that is separate from the ones that lock the handlebars in place. Undo that bolt in an anticlockwise direction. About three full turns should be sufficient. Now take a block of wood and place it on top of the nut to protect the surface of the nut. Get a friend to hold the bike steady because you will need both hands to keep the block of wood on top of the bolt and deliver two sharp blows with a hammer. The handlebars should now be able to be pulled up and down or at least twisted and pulled up and down. Tighten the bolt at desired height

My 2000 Cirrus had the same problem.

Before I describe how I fixed mine, a warning and disclaimer:
Working on the horn switch, clock spring and steering column requires working safely with the air bag module. An airbag that goes off unintentionally can cause serious or fatal injuries. If you don't know how to handle the air bag safely, do not attempt to fix this yourself!

Symptom: Horn sounds when steering wheel is turned or with slight movement of the air bag module in the center of the steering wheel.

Possible causes:
1. Deteriorated insulators under the air bag mounting bracket screws. (This is what caused the problem in my case.)
2. Warped or bent steering wheel or air bag module.
3. Short circuit in clock spring assembly.
4. Short circuit in steering column due to abraded or pinched wire.
5. Faulty horn relay. (Very unlikely if the horn only sounds when turning the wheel.)

How the "horn switch" works: The term "horn switch" is a bit of a misnomer because there is no identifiable "switch" as one might think. The "switch" is actually a combination of parts: The four air bag bracket mounting screws, four plastic bushings and washers that insulate the air bag mounting brackets from the screws which are fastened to the grounded steering column, four springs under the bushings and the metal back side of the airbag module. The horn wire, which comes from the horn relay up the steering column and through he clock spring, is connected to the left hand mounting bracket which is electrically connected to the back of the airbag module which is electrically connected to the right hand mounting bracket when everything is assembled. When the air bag module is pushed in, the metal back contacts one or more of the four air bag module mounting screws completing the circuit to ground and thus activating the horn relay.

Troubleshooting:
1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal on the strut tower under the hood and pull the two 10 A air bag fuses from the fuse panel on the left side of the dash.

WARNING!: WAIT TWO MINUTES TO ALLOW THE AIR BAG SYSTEM CAPACITOR TO DISCHARGE BEFORE PROCEEDING. NEVER DISCONNECT OR RECONNECT THE AIR BAG MODULE ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR UNLESS THE NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL HAS BEEN DISCONNECTED FOR AT LEAST TWO MINUTES. FAILURE TO HEED THIS WARNING COULD RESULT IN UNEXPECTED DEPLOYMENT OF THE AIR BAG RESULTING IN INJURY OR DEATH.

2. Loosen the two torx head screws on the back of the steering wheel that secure the air bag module to the wheel. The screws are captive in plastic retainers, so don't try to remove them.

3. Remove the air bag module, pull out the connector lock and disconnect the air bag module connector.

4. Place the air bag module on a flat surface connector side down away from where you are working.

5. Locate the four air bag mounting bracket screws. Look for black gritty debris around the screw heads and inside the steering wheel. This is an indication that the top insulating washers have deteriorated allowing the mounting brackets to short out to the screws.

6. Now reconnect the battery negative lead and do the following tests:

a. Move the left hand bracket slightly. If the horn sounds, then the top side insulating washers are either gone or deteriorated. If you want to test the right hand bracket, you will need to connect a jumper wire between the brackets. If one washer is cracked or missing, it is likely they all are.

b. Disconnect the horn wire from the left hand bracket. Start the car and turn the steering wheel to the stop in both directions. If the horn still sounds, then you have either a bad clock spring or a short circuit in the steering column.

The repair if the insulating washers are bad:

The official Chrysler repair manual says to replace the steering wheel (about $260); however, there is a cheaper solution.

1. Remove the four air bag bracket mounting screws, bushings, springs and the two brackets, paying careful attention to how they are assembled so you can re-assemble them later.

2. Clean any debris, dirt and grease from the brackets and undersides of the screw heads.

3. Purchase or fabricate some thin insulating (plastic) washers to replace the ones that deteriorated, which unfortunately you cannot buy from Chrysler. I insulated my brackets and screws with kapton insulating tape plus some very thin plastic washers I cut from some blister pack packaging scrap (probably clear polystyrene). This plastic is very thin, but still is pretty tough. Some hollow punches are handy for punching the holes and making nice round washers, but you could probably do it with small scissors or your wife's scrapbook punches if you are careful.

4. Reassemble the air bag mounting brackets to the steering wheel placing the new insulating washers and/or tape between the screw heads and brackets.

5. Reconnect the horn wire to the left hand bracket and move the bracket around a bit. If the horn doesn't sound, then you likely have fixed the problem. Once again, to test the right hand bracket, you need to jumper the left and right brackets together.

6. Disconnect the negative battery lead and wait at least two minutes before proceeding to ensure the air bag capacitor is discharged.

7. Reconnect the air bag connector to the air bag module and insert connector lock.

8. Reassemble the air bag module to the steering wheel.

9. Reconnect the negative battery lead and test the horn. It should blow only when the air bag module is pushed in. Start the car and turn the wheel to both extremes to test the repair.
If the horn sounds continuously, then the washers you put in are two thick causing the air bag module to rest on the screw heads.

10. Turn the car off and reinsert the two 10 A air bag fuses, then restart the car and make sure the air bag light comes on briefly then goes off.

Hope you find this helpful.

3.8L Engine
POWER STEERING PUMP Removal

1. Remove the battery ground cable.
   

1. WARNING: THE ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT NECESSARY FOR SYSTEM DEPLOYMENT IS POWERED DIRECTLY FROM THE BATTERY . TO AVOID ACCIDENTAL DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL INJURY, THE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE MUST BE DISCONNECTED PRIOR TO SERVICING OR REPLACING ANY SYSTEM COMPONENTS.
   Disconnect the positive battery cable and wait one minute for backup power supply energy to be depleted.
   

1. Remove the drive belt. Remove the generator. Remove the power steering pump pulley as described.
   

1. Position the drain pan. Remove the power steering pressure hose and the power steering return hose from the power steering pump .
   

1. Remove the idler pulley.
   

1. On vehicles equipped with A/C, remove the A/C compressor brace.
   

1. Remove three bolts and the power steering pump and bracket assembly.
   

1. Remove the retaining bolts and power steering pump from the power steering pump support .
   

Installation

1. To install, reverse the removal procedure.
   
   1. Tighten the power steering pump bolts to 40-55 Nm (30-40 lb-ft).
   1. Tighten the power steering bracket bolts to 40-55 Nm (30-40 lb-ft).
   1. Tighten the A/C compressor brace nut to 20-25 Nm (15-18 lb-ft).
   1. Tighten the idler pulley bolt to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).

you can buy remanufactured at parts store or buy used from car-part.com. page with * is lowest cost.

It's a pretty big job for a novice.

here's 96 taurus steps with 3.8l engine. don't have 94. should be similar

Removal
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Tool Number Description T94T-6000-AH Exhaust Connector Holder Tool T57L-500-B Bench Mounted Holding Fixture

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
   

1. Position steering wheel one-half turn to right and lock wheel.
   

1. Position steering column boot out of the way. Remove pinch bolt retaining steering column intermediate shaft coupling to power steering short rack and separate.
   

1. Disconnect PCV vent tube and vacuum supply hose from clean air tube. Loosen two hose clamps retaining clean air tube and position out of the way.
   

1. Disconnect power steering auxiliary actuator and power steering pressure switch.
   

1. Remove two heat shield pushpin retainers from power steering hose bracket and remove heat shield.
   

1. Remove one retaining bolt from left turn pressure hose bracket.
   

1. Position drain pan under steering gear.
   

1. Remove power steering pressure and return hoses from fittings on power steering rack. Position both hoses out of the way. Disconnect rear HO2S connector at steering rack and position out of the way.
   

1. Partially raise vehicle.
   

1. Remove front wheel and tire assemblies.
   

1. Remove LH upper stabilizer bar link retaining nut and position link out of the way.
   

1. Loosen LH tie-rod jam nut. Remove cotter pin and tie-rod retaining nut at lower control arm. Using tie-rod end separator or equivalent, remove tie-rod from control arm and from steering gear.
   

1. Loosen RH tie-rod jam nut. Remove cotter pin and tie-rod retaining nut at lower control arm. Using tie-rod end separator or equivalent, remove tie-rod from control arm and from steering gear.
   

1. Raise vehicle.
   

1. Remove drain pan.
   

1. Remove two steering gear retaining nuts at front subframe.
   

1. Install Exhaust Connector Holder Tool T94T-6000-AH on flex tube.
   

1. Remove bolts, nuts, and gasket from where flex tube and converter Y-pipe connect. Separate tube from pipe.
   

1. Position Rotunda Power Train Lift 014-00765 or equivalent with wood blocks approximately 1016 mm (40 inches) in length (secured to lift) under subframe and raise.
   

1. Remove two rear subframe retaining bolts and lower subframe approximately 102 mm (4 inches).
   

1. Rotate power steering rack to clear bolts from subframe and remove assembly through LH wheel well.
   

1. Remove two bolts retaining power steering hose bracket to short rack and remove bracket.
   

1. Mount steering gear assembly in Bench Mounted Holding Fixture T57L-500-B.
   

1. Remove four clamps retaining bellows to steering gear and tie-rods. Remove bellows and power steering gear rack tube.
   

1. Position rack and pinion steering gear so several steering gear teeth are exposed. Hold steering gear with adjustable wrench on end teeth only, while loosening inner tie-rods. Remove tie-rods from steering rack. Remove steering rack from bench-mounted holding fixture.
   

Installation

1. Mount new steering gear assembly in Bench Mounted Holding Fixture T57L-500-B.
   

1. Position rack and pinion steering gear so several steering gear teeth are exposed. Hold steering gear with adjustable wrench on end teeth only, while tightening inner tie-rods. Tighten to 90-110 Nm (66-81 lb-ft).
   

1. Apply Steering Gear Grease C3AZ-19518-A meeting Ford specification ESB-M1C119-A to groove in connecting rods where tie-rod bellows clamp to front wheel spindle tie-rod and uniformly apply to inner diameter of bellows. Install bellows and gear rack tube onto short rack.
   

1. Install new inner and outer bellows clamps.
   

1. Remove steering gear from Bench Mounted Holding Fixture and place on bench.
   

1. Install power steering hose bracket and retaining bolts at top of steering gear. Tighten to 9-12 Nm (80-106 lb-in).
   

1. Install steering gear retaining bolts in steering gear housing and install short rack through LH wheel well.
   

1. Position steering rack and retaining bolts through subframe. Raise powertrain lift until rear subframe contacts body and install retaining bolts. Tighten to 135-195 Nm (100-144 lb-ft). Lower and remove powertrain lift from vehicle.
   

1. Install power steering short rack-to-subframe nuts. Tighten to 97-132 Nm (72-97 lb-ft).
   

1. Install new gasket, bolts and nuts at converter Y-pipe and flex tube. Tighten to 34-46 Nm (26-34 lb-ft).
   

1. Remove flex tube holder.
   

1. Partially lower vehicle.
   

1. Install LH jam nut and outer tie-rod to inner tie-rod. Install tie-rod to steering knuckle. Install retaining nut. Tighten to 47-63 Nm (35-46 lb-ft). Install new cotter pin.
   

1. Install LH stabilizer bar link and retaining nut. Tighten to 76.5-103.5 Nm (57-76 lb-ft).
   

1. Install RH jam nut and outer tie-rod to inner tie-rod. Install tie-rod to steering knuckle. Install retaining nut. Tighten to 47-63 Nm (35-46 lb-ft). Install new cotter pin.
   

1. Install tire and wheel assemblies. Tighten to 115-142 Nm (85-105 lb-ft).
   

1. Lower vehicle.
   

1. Remove old Teflon® O-rings from pressure and return hoses. Install new Teflon® O-rings on pressure and return hoses.
   

1. Install power steering pressure hose and return hose to fittings on power steering short rack. Tighten to 33-41 Nm (24-30 lb-ft).
   

1. Install one retaining bolt to left-turn pressure hose bracket. Tighten to 9-12 Nm (80-106 lb-in).
   

1. Connect rear HO2S connectors, power steering auxiliary actuator, and power steering pressure switch electrical connectors.
   

1. Position heat shield at power steering hose bracket and install pushpin retainers.
   

1. Install clean air tube, connect PCV vent tube and vacuum supply hose, and tighten hose clamps. Tighten to 2-3 Nm (18-27 lb-in).
   

1. Install steering column intermediate shaft coupling to power steering short rack and install pinch bolt. Tighten to 41-51 Nm (30-38 lb-ft). Position steering column boot over steering rack.
   

1. Fill and purge system.
   

1. Check operation.
   

1. Adjust only toe for alignment. Refer to Section 04-00 .