One day it quit working in the middle of baking. Not even the clock comes on. I left it sit for a few days and plugged it into a different outlet but nothing works. Is there a fuse inside to replace?
Yes! but the fuse went for a reason, the problem could be a bad door switch to a more serious problem.
SOURCE: R-4H84 Sharp Carousel II microwave oven stoped working
A microwave can be dead for many reasons.
The fuse is normally located on the floor of the chassis behind the control panel or between the door switches.
If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.
If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.
Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.
When checking thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.
If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.
If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.
If it goes dead or blows the breaker when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.
If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.
You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.
If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.
If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
SOURCE: Sharp Carousel Microwave door latch stopped working door won't stay closed
Normally the problem is not the spring, but a broken spring mounting tab on the door latch head (hook) assembly or the inner door panel.
If it's the door panel, it's usually easier and cheaper to use epoxy and some kind of hardware to fashion a new spring mount.
The door latch head (hook) is easy to replace or repair if that's the issue.
We have *critical* safety & disassembly info at our site, linked here: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
We also have this full service manual at our site: http://www.microwavedisplay.com/R1480_R1481_R1482_sm.pdf
Normally you have to separate the door panels (as shown in the attached photo) and then you'll see the screws you need to remove.
We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
SOURCE: Sharp Carousel Microwave has no power
I too believe that a "protection fuse" was possibly blown. It would need to be found and get replaced. Hopefully it is just a fuse and nothing else because the way it sounds to me, the microwave may be damaged.
Good Luck!
SOURCE: Sharp carousel microwave, Model Number R-1505F, is not running
This
is usually caused by either a bad bottom door switch or a loose bottom door switch
mount, which are pretty simple problems to fix.
Even though a door
switch clicks, it may still be bad inside.
Door switch
or mount trouble is usually caused by slamming the door or by opening
the
door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.
There are
plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and
onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.
The screws on these
mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be
activated properly.
Sometimes it's
a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just
out of position. This tab
can be hard to see, since it is under the
bottom edge of the switch.
If the switch mount is
broken, it's usually more economical and
safer to add a dab or two of hot glue to the mount to secure the
switch. Let it cool for about 30 minutes before using.
See http://www.microwavedisplay.com/doorsw.txt
If you only need a
switch, you can order a universal type here for $5 postpaid.
We have
the service / repair manual for this model and have uploaded
it to our
site here for free download to help you.
At
our Web site, we have a video
available showing how to remove a typical
over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.
We're
happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your
thoughtful rating of our answer.
William E. Miller
[email protected]
http://www.microwavedisplay.com
SOURCE: No power. I changed fuse but microwave blows it immediately.
Be very careful! Standard microwaves have 2100volt capacitors and commercial ones 4000 volt capacitors.
*Decharge your capacitor(s) before doing diagnostics*.
You are now testing the high voltage side (as it works on convection). The main components are a transformer, a capacitor, a diode and a magnetron (havent seen a triac in a panasonic residential). If you have a proper meter that can test uf, decharge the capacitor, then test the capacitor, if it reads 0, you need a new capacitor (10$ used typically, 14$ new from ebay). To test the magnetron, decharge the capacitor first, remove the spade connections, test each leg to the frame of the microwave... if it shows measurable resistance, the magnetron is bad. The transformer is not something you test as I personally dont have a 4000 volt meter. If the diode, the magnetron and capacitor are okay, then the transformer is bad. To eliminate any other function, disconnect the low voltage to the transformer run a micropower cycle and check the fuse.
Hope that helps. My first instinct is the capacitor.
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