FS320 serger needles won't go up and down. New

Be sure to install brand new needles. A bent/damaged needle could strike and break or cause damage.

Otherwise, you should probably take your machine for service.

Yes.

I love/hate my serger! Is thread stuck anywhere below? Bent needles? Are the needles in correctly and tightly? Is the machine greased? Unthread it, rethread. After all of this, it should work. Good luck. My simple old singer didn't do this but it wore out and the Viking is temperamental!

if you bought the machine from someone then you might think about
having the machine checked or serviced to make sure everything
is alright on the inside, since it's a babylock

it's very possible that the machine is out of time & needs to be serviced at a sewing machine shop

the motor could have gone out or the machine could have jumped time, you may want to have the machine checked at a sewing machine shop

is it possible that the needles are in backwards?
it's very possible that the machine is out of time & would have to be taken to a sewing machine repair shop to be retimed

have you got the little silver arm with a gap in it (see photo above mounted over the needle bar? This is essential as the movement of the needle bar going up and down is driving the blades in this attachment.
The walking foot attachment for sewing machines works the same way, you need to place the little arm over the needle bar to make this aftermarket accessory work as its not driven by the sewing machine motor, purely by the movement of the needle bar.

Saying that, I would be suprised if this attachment cut heavy weight fabric or several layers well, like many things made to imitate a purpose built machine (serger) there is no substitute for the real thing. It might be fine to just trim the fabric loose threads off a fabric edge but also you would need to watch that the trimmed bits are going somewhere and not getting into the seam or your machine. On a serger, the blades are working right beside a vertical drop off with a waste tray below and there is a lot of lint and fibres trimmed which quickly builds up. With this attachment, you'd have to manually ensure that the trimmed fibres are swept out of the way.

I hope this helps you to get it working though - 4 thumbs up if so. :-)

your machine should have a stitch length dial on the right hand side above the flywheel, it might have numbers from 0.5 to 3 or 4, higher number for longer stitch (effectively this moves the foot and feed dogs faster in relation to the needles to make the stitch longer).

If you have the Serge Pro SW432 that your enquiry is linked to and you have not used a serger before, then definitely get hold of the manual, you will need it. Sergers are very different to sewing machines - once you've mastered one, its easy, but there is a learning curve.

Firstly, ALWAYS extend the thread aerial up, you'll see loads of images of sergers sitting nicely with the aerial in the lowered position, great for moving them to avoid damage. But they won't work well, a serger seams at 1500 stitches per minute and the thread streams off the cones so you need to ensure there is a good clear feed via the aerial to the tension dials.

Buy good quality thread cones and keep it out of the sun and dust. Cover your machine when not in use (lower the aerial first). You could start with white, grey and black thread as this will cover a lot of fabric prints/colours etc. To change thread colour, you will need to cut and knot on the new thread for the two loopers (right hand side cones) - do this about 6 inches above the first thread guide, and then chain off to feed these through down to the needle plate, when you see the new colour come through okay, stop. Repeat the process for the needle thread or threads (3 or 4 thead depending on what stitch you are sewing) but stop chaining when the thread knot is above the needles. Stop, loosen these tension dials and pull the thread down, cut out the knot with scissors and thread the new colour through the two needles. Use threading wires if you have them, or tweezers. Pull both these and the two looper threads together under the pressure foot, lower the foot, turn your tension dials back to 5 and chain off. The thread sequence is important, mostly top looper, bottom looper, then needles, this is so much easier demonstrated than explained.

If you can find a classroom/shop offering overlocking user lessons, go take a couple, its well worth the money. Otherwise go to you-tube and watch all the videos you can search on sergers, threading, etc.

Good luck with your serger, please respond with 4 thumbs if this has been helpful to you. :-)

Are you using the corfect serger system needles in it? Most domestic sergers will take the regular domestic needle 130/705X but work best with a serger needle with has a groove down the front as well as the regular back scarf. This helps with the thread pickup from the looper by the needles. Sergers also run much faster than domestic sewing machines so the tolerances are very fine.

My Bernina came with ELX705 needles and it does run better with these in it. Also you need to use mid size needles, don't go too small, probably a size 80 or 90 is best.

Check out this page for some good info as the different serger manufacturers do have their own recommended needle sometimes. http://sewingmachine221sale.bizland.com/store/page78.html

Always refer to your manual (or ring the manufacturer if lost) to double check what needle they recommend be used in your serger, it does make a difference.