Maytag dual oven upper oven not heating

if it is not coming on then you may have the same problem again with the ignitor.

on bake both bake and broil will come on the broil shuts down around 260 deg
this is normal its done to shorten preheat time

Check the Manual/Auto Clock setting to be on Manual not auto . The Oven is waiting for the Right Time to start up .

Hi,

The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...

Oven not Working or Oven not Heating

Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter


heatman101

this model is not a dual fuel, and you do have a heating problem, there are two burners, a bake burner and a broil burner, both have ignitors. You have a bad bake ignitor.

Thanks for providing the full model number, which allows us to look up part numbers and see exploded views of your product.
Most likely the bake ignitor is bad (even if it still glows, it may not draw enough amperage to allow the gas safety valve to open). One way you can test this on your model is to swap out the broil ignitor for the bake ignitor, as they are the same part number on your model. (part number WB13T10045) The broiler is normally used much less than the oven, so the part does not fail very often on the broiler. You will have to take the cover off the floor of the oven, then the flame spreader, to reach the burner area. The ignitor is the rectangular part at the back, on the side of the burner. (only two wires to deal with) (By the way, for future reference, your model number ends is SS, as in stainless steel, not a 55)

You have two ignitors one for bake and one for broil your bake is not working

dmiller58
If all your connections are solid then your controller is defective. Did you get any faults before changing the element? Does the broil (one at the top of the oven) work?

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Regards

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You probably need to replace the baking igniter, (Igniter,bake burner
Part Number: AP4102011 made by MAYTAG).

I tested the igniter function by (CAREFULLY) jerry rigging a bridge to wire the BAKE igniter to the BROILER controls. (Push/click plugs accessible by opening up the stove back) Testing the broiler controls this way the bake element remained cold. I then did the same test but connected the BROILER igniter to the BAKE controls and got a good glow. This indicates that the controls work but the Bake igniter's faulty!

You can access the bake igniter by removal of 2 screws at the front at the platform just inside the top oven. The broil and bake igniters appear to be identical but the push/click plugs are reversed at the back of the stove. (hence the CAREFUL jerry rigged wiring bridge.) The parts and wiring are pretty simple and visual once you get the covers off. Opening up the stove back is just a matter of removing several screws. UNPLUG the stove before you work. If you test as I described, make all connections while UNPLUGGED and then plug it in only for the brief test. Unplug again while disconnecting/reconnecting. Hope this helps.

Most ovens are relatively simple; an element and a switch/thermostat. Usually it's one or the other that goes bad. If you have a good Volt/Ohm meter you can test the parts saving you un-needed expense.
A Volt/Ohm meter will pay for itself in parts and safety.
A service manual with circuit diagram will go a long way in saving you time and money. Most service manuals are available online for free as a PDF file.
Happy baking. Photo is a pizza baked at 300 o F with Pizzacraft brand pizzeria flour purchased online.