How to change door lock on servis 1000 gem washing machine

SOURCE: Washing machine rubber door seal replacement

Go to www.Searspartsdirect.com You should be able to find an exploded view and parts list

SOURCE: servis washing machine

the bushes might look ok but they only last a year and a half tops thats wat it sounds like to me if it cant spin right

SOURCE: Washing Machine Door seal replacement

Hi, I'm not familiar with your particular model, but there is most likely a very similar type of clamp holding the back end of the seal to the static part of the drum. It is most unlikely that you will need to take off the front cover as on most machines only the back and top are removable. You might need to unfold the rubber to get to see the wire which is holding it on. If it is the type of clamp with a screw-tightening device, it might be rusted up and a new one might be called for.

If the old seal is damaged there is nothing to be lost by cutting away some of it with scissors so you can see better what you are doing.

When you get to the stage of putting the new seal on, try lubricating it with a bit of washing up liquid or soap to allow it to slip properly onto the casing and rum, and try to avoid tightening up with a twist in it - the soap should help. Remember to put the new one on in the reverse order to the way you got the old one off.
Hope this helps you a bit more. D

Chris Hall

• 842 Answers
• Posted on Feb 09, 2009

SOURCE: Servis Washing machine clothes wet

I don't know the specific machine, but this is a fairly generic problem, so I hope the following helps: The empty pump cycle is a timed operation, the fact that there is still water in the drum after the time allowed for the pump to drain it has run out means that the water isn't clearing out fast enough.

In order of probability, the problem is usually caused by:
1. A blocked filter
2. An obstruction in the empty pipe or drain
3. A Faulty pump

1 Blocked Filter: Many machines have a small door in the bottom of the chassis. Behind this door (Usually about 5 inches square) is a filter, which will usually unscrew. In this filter you will find fluff, string, coins, the odd small sock and all sorts of nasty stuff if you haven't had the filter out before. If the filter is blocked then the pump is having to draw water through all that gunk and it will run out of time and leave water in the drum. Clean the filter in the sink, pocket the coins you find and make a note to clean it regularly in the future Most manufactures will suggest you check it every 2 months or so, depends how often you are using the machine of course.
Unfortunately, other machines do not have filters so easily accessible. If there is no door or obvious access to the filter, some manufacturers put a trap in the rubber hose that feeds the pump. The pain here is that the access to these traps is gained by dragging the bachine out of its place under the work surface and tipping it on to its back. Track the waste pipe back to locate the pump. On the other side of the pump will be a thicker (usually black rubber) pipe and built into this pipe is usually a little bucket that stuff can fall into before it gets to the pump. You can usually squeeze the pipe and feel if there is stuff in it. If there is, then depending on the machine again, some of these traps will have a plug in the bottom that is held in place by a spring clip (Pliers to compress the spring to get it off) or a screw clip (Unscrew with a screwdriver). Enev if there is no trap as such, squeeze the rubber delivery pipe and feel for obstructions (Often a sock!), if necessary, disconnect the pipe from the pump to gain access to the blockage. WARNING!: Never tip the machine all the way onto its back, you may cause a water leak inside the machine. ALWAYS tip BACKWARDS, to the control panel for the machine is pointing up to avoid water getting to the control panel. I would recommend butting a chair behind the machine as you tip it, so the top back of the machine comes to rest on the seat and the machine is at about 45 degrees. this will give you access to underneath without a leak and make is a lot easier to tip it back on to its feet again afterwards.
2. An obstruction in the empty pipe or drain: Start at the point that the pipe enters the household drain pipe, pull out the empty pipe and check that water will flow freely into the drain (Stuffing the garden hose down there and turning it on (but not TOO FAST) will usually demonstrate if there is a blockage. If this is free, check the pipe that runs from the pump to the drain (This will need the machine tipping as described above, and possibly the pipe removing from the pump to check it.
3. A Faulty Pump:If you have done everything described so far, then you have checked for obstructions in the pipe leading to the pump, the pipe leading away and you have cleaned out any filters or traps... If you still have a problem, you have a faulty pump. This is highly unlikely. These pumps have induction motors (no brushes to fail) and in my experience, they either work, or they don't. They very seldom "work a bit". If SOME water is being pumped (check by putting the empty hose in the sink and watching) then you really need to double check your work before replacing the pump. Good news is, if you do have to they are usually reasonably priced.

SOURCE: fit door seal

A lot of concerns have been raised about door bellows molding, mildewing, and/or ripping and needing replaced. A replacement bellow isn't cheap (prices vary, but are around $75-80), so hopefully these helpful steps will eliminate the need to call a repair service and pay the additional labor charges. This is a repair of MODERATE difficulty. Just follow these steps:

1. Unplug the washer.
2. Remove the washer top panel by removing the three torx-type screws (or 7mm) where it attaches in the rear of the washer. The panel should slide back, and then lift off.
3. Remove the operator console by removing the dispenser and the scew(s) behind it. Take a putty knife and insert it under the console seam right above the door. If you push in slightly while pulling outwards the panel pops off. Use care not to pull or damage any of the wiring. You can leave the wires attached and simply lay the console across the top of the washer out of the way.
4. Locate the wire hoop retainer around the rubber door boot. It is located behind the rubber seam where it attaches to the door frame. Follow this hoop around to the bottom of the door opening and locate the wire tension spring. Gently pry this spring apart and pull the wire hoop from the groove. Pull the rubber boot from the frame and push it inside towards the wash tub. You will also have to remove the door boot from the fill tube on the left hand side of the door opening. There is a small wire clamp holding it in place.
5. Remove the three screws that hold the door latch assembly in place. This is on the right hand side of the door opening. You can leave the latch in place as long as you remove the screws and push it inside slightly to remove it from the front casing of the washer.
6. Remove the door by removing the screws holding the hinges in place. Use care to support the door hinges when loosening. They can bend. Set the door aside in a location where it will not get stepped on or broken.
7. Remove the lower kick panel under the door. There are 3 screws under the bottom edge holding it in place. Sometimes the panel can stick. A slight tap on either side will knock it free.
8. Remove the front washer casing by removing the four remaining screws that are holding it in place. There should be two at the top and two at the bottom. Set the front casing aside.
9. Remove the old door boot by locating the large clamp that attaches it to the wash tub. Loosen the 7mm nut and the boot will detach from the tub. Also remove the boot from the fill tube coming from the dispenser.
10. Install new door boot on the wash tub and install clamp. There should be instructions that come with the door boot with guide marks to ensure you align it correctly. Once you have the boot in place, tighten the clamp enough to where it is snug. DO NOT over-tighten or you may damage the tub and or clamp. In most cases the clamp will break.
11. Once you have the boot in place, re-install everything in the reverse order of how I explained to disassemble. Make sure you connect the door latch assembly BEFORE you re-install the outer portion of the door boot. Also, make sure you install the boot completely over the fill tube. There should be a ridge on the tube where to stop. Sometimes the tube is not inserted all way into the boot and water will leak behind it. The clamp is always difficult to get back in place. If you cannot get the clamp to go back over the tube, you can live without it. Some newer models do not have them installed. Just make sure it is a snug fit where the rubber boot fits ALL the way back to the plastic ridge on the tube.
12. When you get the point where you are ready to install the door boot back over the frame of the door opening ensure you fit it snugly all the way around the door. Beginning at the top of the door, start inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Make sure to wire spring points towards the bottom. As you work your way around the door to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions, you will need to maintain some constant downward pressure while pulling the spring apart in order to snap it back into place. It would be advisable to use a second set of hands to hold the wire hoop in place while doing this as it has the tendency to want to come out of the groove.
13. Once the door boot is back in place, re-install the operator console and washer top.
14. At the operator console, select DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN and press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (has to be the same button, though). This will place the washer in diagnostics mode. You should hear the door latch lock and "C00" will be displayed on the console. The washer will run through a series of tests filling the tub, tumbling, draining, and then a final spin. If you do not wish to wait for the test to complete you can press CANCEL at any time. The test checks out everything and takes about 15 minutes. Look for any leaks.


Step 6--Removing the door. After you remove the three screws in Step 5, there is only one screw to remove in step 6 on my model. It was hidden behind a plastic cover that makes the hinge look pretty. You'll see on the inside of the door that two plastic prongs/tabs extend into holes in the hinge. If you push on them laterally and pull out, the tabs will pop out. Outside the door on the left side of the machine, you'll see the plastic cover that is connected to those plastic tabs and is hiding the hinge. On the outside cover piece, there is a flat tab that extends up into the plastic housing above it. If you gently pull the cover downward and out the whole plastic cover will come off revealing the one screw that needs to be removed to take the door off.
Step 7--Removing the Kick Panel. The middle screw is more difficult to reach than the sides. You may need an extension for your screwdriver and/or shims or a helper to prop up the washer while you remove the middle screw.
Step 8--Removing the washer casing. The step says to remove the screws and set the casing aside. My model (2005-ish) has wires connected to it. Rather than being able to remove it, it swings open like a door with the wires as the hinge. I simply used a box to prop up the outside part of the door so it did not sag and stress the wires.
Step 9--After you remove the old rubber bellow, you will likely see a lot of dirt, mold, and junk where the bellow was. Clean that stuff off with a cloth sprayed with a gentle cleanser before installing the new bellow. We replaced our bellow because of mold and mildew and bad smelling stuff. That dirt and junk is part of the problem. Clean it up before you install the new clean bellow.

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