My washer spin and unlock button starting flashing and when I try to unlock the washer, it won't let me. I have a feeling the load was off balance. What can I do to unlock it?

SOURCE: Neptune FAV6800aww Will not go into spin

I just did a repair on my FAV6800AAW by lubricating the needle bearings in the clutch pulley hub, the tub displacement sensor checked OK per the service manual check. I was getting dc/uc errors in the spin cycle, washer was purchased in 7/05. I have basic mechanical skills and used a socket wrench to remove clutch pulley hub, just follow the service manual removal steps to remove clutch pulley hub. Pull the plastic cover off the clutch pulley hub and inspect the spring, clean/lube needle bearings and the clutch hub coupler that drives spinner shaft. I used WD40 I may need to re-lube down the road with a good light grease. It took a few tries for me to get the clutch pulley hub to stay on after re-install and power up, getting the clutch pulley seated properly is the trick. I did not remove the washer tub for this fix, I just leaned the washer back to get a better reach angle, it is a tight work area. I did not want to junk 3.5 yr old $1k machine with out trying a fix. If you want to work on this model get the service manual, I found it online and I believe you can order it in PDF format from Maytag. Good luck!
I just went thru my 10th load of a mix of light, medium and heavy loads and all work fine no unbalance errors (DC/UC). Doesn’t fix the tangle problem :) Prior to this fix I could only run the washer with no clothes in it to complete a cycle with no dc/uc error codes.

SOURCE: My washer starts and stops a few seconds later with a FL code

Hello donaldwoulla,
I’m an owner of a FAV6800AWW not a GURU, this forum automated rating system is way too generous, I will try to help. Do you feel OK to try some troubleshooting? The following troubleshooting assumes you want try a possible DIY fix.
“FL” code is Failed to lock, we will try a few troubleshooting steps. The following test will be done by selecting the Spin Only cycle. First test will be done in service mode.
1. This is from SM; Press Enviro Plus and Spin Only keys for 3 seconds to activate Service Mode. Access Board Output Test by pressing the Delicates key. Display shows “ot” and the lid locks should actuate locking the lid. Does this happen, do you take the “FL” fail code in this process? Hit OFF button to cancel this test.

2. I want to make sure you signal an “OP” alarm to the display. Can you select Spin Only cycle with the lid open press start. Do you signal the “OP” alarm, lid open to the display? If it does close the lid and the “OP” alarm should clear, does it? I’m checking that the lid magnet is in place and the signaling connections are working thru the left lid lock back to the control board.

3. With spin only cycle selected and the lid closed press the Start Button do both lid locks try to close and lock the lid? From your initial post I believe you throw a “FL” to the display very quickly, that is the left and right lid locks do not actuate several times before the control board displays the “FL” fail code. Is that correct?

4. This step requires you to raise the top off the washer you will need to the move the washer out several inches and you should have a helper available to hold the lid up for you. Unplug the washer from the 120VAC outlet. Use this info and the FAV6800A/9800A Service Manual to assist you. To raise the top of the machine, insert a flat blade putty knife approximately 2.5” from the left and right sides of the washer top, depress the spring tabs securing machine top to the washer base. See page 33 of the SM for putty knife insertion point. We are going to reseat the Left Lid Lock plug a couple of times into the Left Lid Lock. We are checking to see if there might be some corrosion on the plug contacts. Take a look at page 34 of the SM. Top right of the page Lid Lock/Reed Switch Removal where the persons thumb is. This is the plug we want to remove and reseat a few times. It may be difficult to do remove so be careful. Mine was very difficult to remove the first time. This lid lock is near the bleach dispenser and other owners have had corrosion issues with this left lock causing issues. After doing this and you have reseated the plug into the left lid lock a few times power up the washer and give it a try.

Just to let you know don’t worry about the right lid lock, it’s signaling and control functions are in parallel with the left lid lock. I’ve had mine disconnected since mid Dec. The left lid lock is the important lid lock. It has the dual functions of signaling the control board that the lid is open/closed by the magnetic reed relay in that lid lock and the lid is locked by contact closure back to the control board in that lid lock. If this doesn’t help resolve the issue we will try removing the left lid lock to inspect if you feel OK to continue. Good luck. Rich

SOURCE: MAH 2400 AWW flashing error code "dc"

Hi Pepsi,
"dc" means that the control board is trying to ramp up (that is, send a signal to the motor controller), but has encountered an unbalanced load and so shuts down. Specifically, "dc" means "distribute clothes".

I took this opportunity to upload a Tech and Troubleshooting manual for you. Here is the link for it. Read it carefully. You will be required to perform a "board output" test after placing the machine in "Service Mode".

I gotta tell ya, though. Based on my history with these, I highly suspect that the machine control board has failed. Let me know what you find, OK?

(And don't forget to rate this solution as "FixYA!", deal?

SG

SOURCE: My Maytag Centennial washer jumps around during

Have to keep the loads a little smaller and better balanced. Does not appear to be a particular problem with my machine.

SOURCE: The door on the washer

HI - UNDER THE CORNER OF THE SOAP UNIT YOU WILL FIND A GREENISH YELLOW NYLON - PULL ON THAT TO UNLOCK THE DOOR.