The fan and light come on when the door is closed. The microwave does not actually cook just the light and fan.
This indicates one or two bad door switches.
Testimonial: "Quick Knowledgeable and patient. Watched my problem for an update for weeks and still provided a fast response. "
Thank you for the update.
When you replaced the switches did you make sure the normally open and closed switches did not get mixed when changed them?
When you replaced the switches what do you think happened to the HV powersupply?
Thank you very much for your support.
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SOURCE: GE Microwave problems after HV capacitor replacement???
The rectifier diode could indeed be bad. But first I would want to know what value (in uF) the old one was and what is the value of the new one? If they're too far off, the difference in the capacitive reactance could throw off the "tuning" of the circuit. The uF value of the capacitor is optimized in relation to the other components used in the system. Of course, you'd also want to be sure your new cap is at or slightly above the working voltage rating of the old one, too.
SOURCE: Microwave Will not work
This is usually a bad door swithc or loose or broken door switch mount.
If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical safety information, info on door switch diagnosis and replacement, and
disassembly information at our site, linked here on Fixya: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
You can also find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383
SOURCE: Microwave Door Switch Problem?
That model number has too many digits after the JVM. Could it be JVM1339BW02 or JVM1339BW002?
If one is bad, it's probably the bottom switch, whose wiring goes back to the power relay, thermostat, or fuse, depending on eact model.
The switch with thin wires going to a ltitle connector on the board is the door sense switch. That's not likely your culprit.
I usually recommend you replace them all while you're at it.
It sounds like it may actually be a loose or misaligned door or door switch mount.
If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical safety information, info on door switch diagnosis and replacement, and
disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383
GE models have a very helpful "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel. Handy in troubleshooting.
We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
SOURCE: GE Profile Spacemaker 2.0 Microwave
If
it goes dead or blows the breaker or GFI when you plug it in or open or close
the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch
mount.
Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside. Its continuity must be checked.
Door
switch or mount trouble can be caused by slamming the door or by
opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.
There
are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches
and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.
The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.
Sometimes
it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate
just out of position. Other times, it's a broken tab on the switch
holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab
can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.
If
you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical
information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and
our link is at our listing here on FixYa:.
You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.
There may also
be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or
hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when
troubleshooting & testing.
We're happy to help you and we'd appreciate your
thoughtful rating of our answer.
SOURCE: GE microwave Turnable turns on opening the door
Thanks for the photo of the label!
It shows the FCC ID number, which I used to find schematics at the FCC Web site.
The problem is a shorted primary interlock switch.
This is the door switch which has two black wires connected to one terminal and a black and a blue wire connected to the other
terminal.
See these files for help:
http://www.microwavedisplay.com/safety.txt
http://www.microwavedisplay.com/disassembly.txt
http://www.microwavedisplay.com/doorsw.txt
You can usually find
helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full
model number here.
If a switch is all you
need, we offer a universal type for only $5 postpaid which you can
order here.
We're
happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your
thoughtful rating of our answer.
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Usually answered in minutes!
Ordered parts should be here by May 10th will get back after that.
Ok Sorry for the long delay but replaced all the switches and no joy. Worse now I think I damaged something else because now the microwave overloads the breakers.
I was careful and changed the switches one at a time. I think I damaged the HV powersupply. It will run for about 5 seconds the pop.
I knock loose another connector when pulling out the assembly and it arced when I plugged in to the wall to test. Now immaterial the unit ceased all function last night. Thank you for you advice and time And I appreciate it.
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