Protection light on Visionik V204XT

Some amps come with extra, power,rem,ground, so you can , power up another Amp Without runing to many wires. , or using a power block.like a parallel, being your 1st Amp your power block, and your remote, ground .

I have one of these new, in the box, with no instructions.

Specifications:
Power Output: 40W/Chan Maximum, 18W/Chan RMS
(20hz-20khz into 4 ohms at less than 1% THD)
Freq. Responce: 20hz-30khz, +/-3dB
Signal to noise ratio: 80dB, A-weighted
Input Sensitivity:
Low Level, 100-500 mV
High Level, 1-5v
Input Impedence:
Low Level, 10k ohms
High Level, 27 ohms
Load Impedence: 4-8 ohms allowable (4-8 ohm speakers)
Power Requirement: 14.4v DC (10.8-15.6 allowable)

As you can see the RMS wattage output of these units is only about 18W maximum.

I am planning on using the amp I have on a low power factory car radio. A low power factory radio output should be somewhere between 6-12 watts rms/channel. I will be using the "High Level" inputs for this. DO NOT connect a radio with a higher output power. If your radio says "High Power", 25W/channel, etc, do not connect to this amp. (exception: you can use the "line out" connectors, if so equipped, See Below). I don't have the connector for the high level input so i don't know what I'll do to hook up to it. I'll probably just run wires out of the amp, in lieu of the connector.

The "Low Level" inputs are for an unamplified, line level signal ("line out" connection of a radio, portable CD player, etc). Do Not connect a greatly amplified signal to these connections.

I don't know much about the "Input Sensitivity" control (pot). I'll be leaving it on "Low" for my initial test.

The grey wires are the right speaker wires and the white wires are the left speaker wires. The grey wire with a black tracer mark is the right speaker positive (+) wire. The white wire with a black tracer is the left speaker positive (+) wire.

The blue/white wire is for attachment to your radio's "Auto Ant" (power antenna) connection (usually a orange wire, I said USUALLY). If you have a power antenna on your car, simply splice into the wire running from your radio to the antenna. This blue/white wire activates a relay in the amp which, in turn, completes the circuit through the yellow (+) power wire (See Below). - Alternative 1: You could run this wire directly to your battery with a switch to turn the amp on. You would need to place an in-line fuse of 2amp. - Alternative 2: You could connect this wire to the accessory fuse in your fuse box. If this is done, again, attach a 2amp in-line fuse for extra protection. (Note: if attached to your fuse box accessory fuse, the amp will be on even if you're not using the radio. You could have a switch here also). These are just suggestions. The most common way to connect the blue/white wire is the "Auto Antenna" wire of your radio.

The large black wire is main Ground (-) for the amp. The large yellow wire is Positive (+) power to the amp. Ideally, these should be connected straight to your battery's (+) and (-) terminals. The yellow wire on your amp should have an integral in-line fuse holder with a 7amp fuse. If not, add one. Of course, the black ground wire could simply be attached under a screw, into the body of the vehicle.

Hope this helps !

I'm thinking you have an open shield ground on the RCA input side. Connecting speaker inputs possibly restores the ground. Try connecting the high level inputs then disconnect the remote end of the cables (floating the grounds).

Then get out an ohmmeter and find that open circuitor or bad solder joint between RCA ground and real ground in the speaker's amplifier. Or.... if speaker ground kills the hum and you want to use RCA Line Level input to the sub, just connect one minus speaker output on your source amp to one minus on the sub's amp.

It is possible that your amp is going over the threshold limit of draining current to give out the protect signal. What could be done is to first checkout if your speakers are loading the amplifier, check the rating of the speakers and the impedance, must not be too low.below 2 ohms. Now check the source signal if this is bringing in any transcient signals to power out the outputs particularily high/low freq. So decrease off your bass and treble to mid position and test again. see if there is any improvement, if so there could be a filter problem with your set. Connect an external source and see if the amp powers better , in such case check for fault in cables, input lines and ground with in the set. Repeat this and check. Hope this helps you out. Good day

Hello beaugarcia26,

Unless the amp itself is defective, there's a short or ground somewhere.

First disconnect the speaker wires and RCA (or high level) inputs, leaving just ground, remote turn-on and power leads connected. Then see if the amp powers up normally. If it doesn't check the ground with a multimeter and make sure it is good. If the amp powers up normally, check the speaker, speaker wires and inputs for shorts or grounds.

Hope this helps.

Hello maydude01,

The Boss OL5KD does not have a volume control. It has an "Input Level" adjustment which is used to match the output from your head unit preamp output to the amp. It is the first rotary control just to the right of the input jacks.

If you have no sound at all, I'd suspect that something is incorrectly connected or there is no input to the amp. First make sure that the amp power light (green LED) is coming on when you turn on the receiver and that the protection light (red LED) stays off. Then check all of your wiring, especially the RCA output cables.

Initially set the controls like this: MASTER/SLAVE switch in MASTER position (left). INPUT SENSITIVITY 2v-8v (right). INPUT LEVEL, SUBSONIC FILTER, BASS BOOST, and LOW PASS FILTER; midrange. PHASE SHIFT "0" (left). Leave the remote level control disconnected.

After you've checked all wiring and initially set the switches and controls, turn the receiver on to about 3/4 volume. Now adjust the INPUT LEVEL to the left just until you begin to hear distortion, then turn it back right just a little. Adjust the other controls for best sound. Plug in the remote level control and make sure that it adjusts the bass up and down. You're finished!

If there's still no output from the unit after checking all of the wiring, either the unit is defective, it's not getting an input from the receiver, or the sub(s) are defective.

Hope this helps.

If you have a good ground and 12+v on both the B+ and remote terminals, it's likely a DOA amp. Return it to the place of purchase for repair or replacement.

1800W peak output at 2 ohms
975W peak output at 4 ohms
600W RMS (continuous) at 2 ohms
325W RMS (continuous) at 4 ohms
Variable LP crossover adjustable 35-250Hz
4 AWG power/ground inputs and RCA pass through
Low-pass filter
Bass boost 0-18dB adjustable remote punch bass EQ
Signal-to-noise ratio: >80dB
Line-level input


It is going into protect mode for a reason.
Disconnect the subs and turn everything on again. If the light comes on, the problem is internal and will need servicing by a technician.

It shouldn't be going into protection mode. Have you tried doing this on the other channel?

The high level input is for speaker level signal (as those you'd have if you were driving the amp from an OEM head unit).

In most of Rockford's amps, the low voltage detection is connected to the remote input. If the remote voltage is too low and they use the same circuit on this amp, it could trigger the protection circuit.

 

Disconnect the head unit's remote from the amp. Use a fuse holder with a 3 amp fuse to jump between the B+ connection and the remote terminal of the amp. If the amp powers up, the head unit's remote output may be defective. If it blows the fuse, the remote input or part of the power supply is damaged. Do not try it with an unfused jumper.