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Rudd UGDG-10EAMER Furnace keeps shutting off before reaching temp

Furnace was not cleaned for some time. repairman came out and changed pressure switch. worked till he left and then shut off. He said the furnace needed cleaning.(vacumed out) We did this but could"nt do the blower as I didn't know how to remove it. cleaned as best I could and tried to start the furnace? No Luck??called repairmn out for third time to see what was the problem? He said probably was the circuit board??but lites on board were working . cleaned the sensor and the blower and ran for a while but does not heat house because it keeps shutting off?? Repairman feels the board is causing the problem because of it was coming and going (Intermittent)?? He also said it wasn"t getting enough air and was overheating?? Thought maybe the Air Cond Coil in Plenum was blocked(Dirty)?? My Daughter has spent Three Hund. Dollars and it still isn"t working.. Any Sugg?? Price of Thank You, Don

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  • duke6658 Nov 16, 2008

    What is the Procedure to Check "A" Frame for Blockage and how would you clean it?? Does anyone know the price for a new control Board?? ,Thanks Don

  • mjthera Dec 25, 2008

    have a ruud hot air gas furnace ,last 3 years it would turn on run a minute or so then shut off, then five minutes or so turn on gas burner ignites blow s gas for a minute or 45 seconds then gas shuts off etc cycles over and over like this for the last 3 winters well this winter it got worse to a point the gas would ignite for 10, 20 , 30 or maybe 45 seconds if i was lucky then the nice bright blue gas would flame out again i cleaned the spark ignitor with steel wool it wasnt dirty looking anyway, well that didnt work ,i bought a nice new thermostat that didnt work, so i read over and over the trouble shooting guide on the back panel turns out the flame kept shutting off cause theres a vacum plastic tube runs from a electrical switch to the exhaust fan above the burners for the exhaust piping out the house well the tube on one side was kinked a little , just a little cause whoever put it on seemed to cut the tube just a littttle to short so when you put it on the nipple it was kinked a little so i took it offsucked on the tube and the electrical switch would go clik ,clik so i put the tube back on the nipple without letting it kink so much it looked like the letter L before, and vooooola ! burner , furnace works like a charm ! 1st time its ever got the house to 70 or 65 or 75 or 80 if i want and the burner now stays lit until the jobs done! im so proud of myself well good luck folks! mj

  • Anonymous Jan 16, 2009

    Does anyone have the codes for the board 62-24084-02. It is for a RUUD UGDG-10EBRJR. There are two green lights. One of the green lights blinks 4 times. The amber light stays on>


    ps. Help?



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Well guys it sounds to like you could have a duct work issue alot of times in the older houses the duct work is not sized correctly causing restriction of air flow wich in return is causing the limit to open in al if you have a 1200 cfm blower you have to bring in close to 1200 r/a and put out close to 1200cfms

Posted on Apr 05, 2009

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If you have a air restriction, like the tech has said, then the system will be shutting down do to the high limit switch. This switch prevents the unit from over heating, to the point of causing sever damage. Before you call that company back out I would let them know that you are not going to pay for another trip because they haven't fixed the problem. Ruud does not have many problems with the control board. They are a die hard breed.

Posted on Nov 16, 2008

  • Anonymous Nov 18, 2008

    To clean your "A" coil you will have to take your plenum apart to get to it. This can take some time if you have never done it before, but you will be saving a bunch of money. It would take either a 5/16 or 1/4 inch nut driver to remove the screws. Once you are able to open the plenum you will have to remove the A coil a little just to look up into it. This is a very time consuming job and can be very messy. To remove the blower is easy. On the Ruud system you have either 2 or 4 bolts that holds it in place. The bolts are located on what looks like a slide rail. Once you remove the bolts the blower will slide out toward you and you should be able to see if your blower wheel is dirty or not.


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Make sure gas valve is on outside coming into the house,it sounds like a control board problem though

Posted on Nov 16, 2008

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Gas Furnace Repair - How to Change the Pressure Switch

Your gas furnace is not working and you think that the pressure switch is bad. Here are some things to check and the steps to replace it. Replacing is not very difficult at all, in fact it is one of the easiest thing that you can replace yourself.

Your gas furnace purge blower runs and never shuts off but your furnace is not producing any heat. Or your igniter will glow, light the burners and then the furnace will shut right back down and try to recycle all over again. Either one of these conditions are common if the pressure switch is going bad or has failed.

You can check the switch by placing a jumper wire across the wires going to the pressure switch once the purge blower has started. If the burner lights and stays lit the pressure switch is probably your problem. Could be a weak blower, but I would try the Pressure switch first; it is much less expensive to replace.

Once you isolate that the pressure switch is faulty, then you can change it. This is very simple. For most furnaces the wiring is low voltage, so the risk of shock is minimal. You should still turn off the power to be safe. Remove the screws that secure the switch and then just switch the two wires over to the new switch and secure the screws again.
That’s all there is too it a very simple operation.

Turn the power back on to the furnace. Re-fire the furnace and check the operation of the unit. It takes a while for the unit to cycle through the lighting process but you should have a furnace that now heats your house just fine.

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