Icemaker wont harvest

Try vacuuming the condenser coils of lint. The icemaker resets and harvests by a thermostat. If the freezer isn't cold enough it may not reset for a harvest. The icemaker could also be just bad.

• Is the freezer working okay?
• If so, ice maker fill valve may have failed
• Ice maker harvest thermostat may have failed.
• If there is a block of ice in the icemaker, the harvest heater may have failed.

It could be the harvest thermostat or the mold heater is bad on the icemaker. It is usually better to just replace the icemaker. Installing a harvest thermostat is a but tricky and the mold tray is 3/4 of the icemaker anyway..

try filling the icemaker tray mold manually with about 4 ounces of tap water from the front of the icemaker,sometimes if you start a manual ice production harvest they will take over on their own after that

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly

Here is what the manual says:

3. Icer-ette freezes but water does not come into mold; no ice production.
_____________________________________________________________

3A. Nonfunctioning water valve assembly. 3A. Clean or replace solenoid valve assembly.

3B. Mold heater assembly. 3B. Contact Raritan Technical Support.

3C. Water supply turned off. 3C. Provide pressurized water.

3D. Icemaker module. 3D. Replace icemaker module.

3E. Cold control. 3E. Replace cold control.
3F. Bad wiring harness plug contacts. 3F. Contact Raritan Technical Support.*

Although this is for troubleshooting non optical sensor refrigerators:

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=12&newsdesk_id=34
The troubleshooting procedures for cycling the unit are exactly the same,
The ice maker module part number for the 120V unit is PN 628366 (do a net search for this part number and save yourslef a bumch of money if you fetermine your moduleis bad) You start the harvest cycle by removing the front cover and then jumpering test points T to H. The white dial will begin to move if there is power to the module. Remove the jumper when the sweep arm reaches 5" o'clock and let the ice maker automatically cycle. It should harvest, and fill in on complete turn of the white dial. If it does not fill you probably have a water supply or water valve problem. There is an inline input power fuse for the ice maker. Power should come in via the red wire.

Mind you the ice maker has an internal thermostat behind the module assy that has to reach 15 deg F to start the harvest cycle. When you jumper T to H you are bypassing the thermostat. If the thermostat fails or the unit does not reach 15 deg F then the harvest cycle will never begin.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

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Good day.
Tough one if it works from time to time. Shut the water to the machine completely off and clean out the ice maker well.
Pour water into the well until near full. Wait 3 hours to see if it harvests normally. If it's a normal harvest, repeat the test 2 to 3 more times. If it acts normally on harvest, replace the water valve on the bottom back of he machine.
If it acts abnormally, then you will need to replace the ice maker, and the water valve should be replaced at the same time.

Note: The freezer temperature must be normal for this testing to work properly, and the water supply from the house must be strong. Extremely weak water to the machine from the house will unbalance the fill cycle because it is a straight time fill. 7 seconds, unlike a washing machine that fills to a specific level.

Hi, The optics almost never go in those unit's, the problem is in the icemaker module itself. If you can jump it thru a fill and then no advancing thru to harvest afterward ( provided your freezer is below freezing ) it's the module. You can either replace just the head/module or the entire icemaker. For the difference of only about $50 I always replace the complete assembly. The most common one being about $150 complete, # 2198597 and this should be the one for your fridge since you mentioned the optic component's. Hope that help's. Thanks for choosing "fixya" for your fridge inquiry. Please take a moment and rate this solution if indeed it solves your problem. Thanks again and good luck. Macmarkus :)

If the water pressure for water through the door is low I would check your saddle valve that taps into the line. I would next check your icemaker fill tube to make sure it is not frozen. If it is then you will need to replace the saddle valve because it is due to low water pressure.
You can try to manually harvest the icemaker by turning the power switch off-on-off-on and then pushing the lever in three times in a row. This will harvest the icemaker. If the icemaker harvests and the rake moves then its most likely still good. (if theres a batch of cubes frozen in the ice maker then its def bad.) If you get it to harvest and no water comes in then you will know its a water supply issue.
Replacing the inlet valve and saddle valve will most likely correct the issue. You may only need a new saddle valve and they only cost about 10 bucks.
Let me know if this helps _MJ_

hello
If you suspect a valve , you could manually fill the icemaker mold with water to see if it harvests ice, if there is no water coming into the icemaker the plunger in the water inlet valve may be stuck and electrically the valve is OK. You might be able to rebuild the valve. If after the water freezes in the icemaker and it doesn't harvest make sure the shutoff arm is operating the switch inside the icemaker by lifting the arm up and down and listening for a click.

regards

Make sure the lever is down first . if so ,pour about 1/2 cup of water into icemaker and see if it harvests (dumps) . If it harvests , then the water valve is bad . If not , and the ice stays in the icemaker , then the icemaker is bad .