Hello I need the schematics diagram due to a failure in the power supply section samtron 74v monitor

SOURCE: Hp L1955 LCD monitor

Check the capacitors on the power supply if any on the secondary side are bulged replace them all with low ESR substitutes. Panasonic FC work well.

Also check the transistors around the inverter output transformers there are two on each side. Check them with the diode function of your DMM if any measure shorted replace both in the pair. You can find these on e-bay.

That is a power board / inverter assembly getting it would be extremely hard not to mention expensive.

SOURCE: schematic diagram of crt and lcd monitor.

I want ur mail ID
I will Give U

SOURCE: Schematic diagram

plz send me philips lcd monitor diagram power supply model 150B

thanks

regards
asif mansouri

SOURCE: SCHEMATIC LCD MONITOR AL1916W FROM ACER

Schematics are in the Service manual here → https://www.mk-electronic.de/hersteller/PDFDokumente/Acer/Display%20Product(DP)/19/AL1916Wc.pdf

SOURCE: The monitor will not power on.

Lucky you - You bought an L1906 Monitor from HP and one day all of a sudden, the Green Power LED just didn't turn on anymore. The Monitor appears to be dead!

Why?

Well I suspect it is because HP decided to save a few pennies by buying "second tier" electrolytic capacitors. You can read all about them on wikipedia, just look for "capacitor plague". In your monitor, several of them have burst, or are about to, and they have vomited the contents of their stomachs onto the PCB of your power converter. Mmmmm - yummy.


Not to worry. (A) For a "nominal" fee, the good folks at HP will gladly swap your monitor out for a replacement unit( with a few minor scratches).

Or (B) you can follow these handy steps to fix it yourself, while flipping HP a collective "bird", now and forevermore.

Personally, I went with option B.

Option B:

1) Face HP world headquarters and extend the middle finger of your right hand in salute, while uttering the words "BITE ME!" with menacing conviction.
2) Remove the power from your monitor and allow it to sit overnight so that all capacitors can discharge, thus making it safe to work on.

WEAR SAFETY GLASSES FOR THESE NEXT STEPS

3) Insert a very small flat bladed screwdriver in the gap between the silver front bezel and the black plastic back (do this at the bottom of the monitor so if you scratch the bezel it will be less noticeable.)
4) Gently push the black plastic inwards which will deflect the black plastic retaining tabs inwards, and will release the silver bezel.
5) Once you have the bottom off, work up the sides and release the top. The remove the bezel completely. Then unscrew the ON/OFF + Menu Button panel and move it aside being careful not damage the wires that attach it to the unit
6) Place the monitor face down on a towel (or other soft surface, for example a scantily clad super-model will also work)
7) Gently compress the top cap of the tilt stand to disengage the locking tabs that hold it on, and remove it revealing the "third screw" of the tilt mount. (I had to use a lot of 4-letter words to find this, your mileage should be considerably superior)
8) Unscrew the three screws holding the tilt stand to the monitor back and remove the tilt stand. These screws have loctite, so use a good screwdriver and press hard. If using a super-model, she should be squealing with each torque thrust.
9) Remove all 8 screws on the rear panel - 4 One in each corner, and four more on each corner of the raised section in the center of the monitor.
10) Remove the back cover
11) Remove the two screws on either side of the AC power receptacle and the 4 wires that plug into the monitor chassis, noting the order in which they are connected.
12) Remove the 4 screws that hold the LCD panel to the chassis
13) Gently remove the panel enough to get access to the power board, being careful not to damage any wires or their connection points.
14) Remove the 4 power board mounting screws, note that one is different, and remove the power board.
15) Remove all defective electrolytics (especially 5V 1000uF near the +5V outputs). The defective ones are bulged or have burst.
16) Mutter expletives under you breath. If young children are present, alternate "Darn!" and "Fudge!"
17) Clean off the HCl residue left by the burst electrolytic using board wash or 99% ISOPROPYL.
18) Replace the defective electrolytic capacitors. In fact, just replace all of them, that way this will be your final repair on this POS.
19) Suppress your anger.
20) Re-assemble and test.

Please post your repair experience on this thread. If you have any sentiments that you would like to express to HP, please use this forum as a place to indulge in an immersive catharsis. Feel free to vent from the orifice of your preference.

The capacitors did.