I have a professional installer put in the unit Sept 25 but I have not used it as up to date, reasons described below... Right after it was installed, one burner would not come on. After warranty service #1, none of the burners came on. Warranty service #2 ordered power supply board to replace. Throughout the whole repair history, our smoke alarm would come on after the unit staying on for a while for testing purpose. The time the alarm triggered varied but the pattern was consistent. I was told that this model is 2006's model. I am deeply concerned that this could be a safety related design flaw. Please advise.
I have planned to buy a Frigidaire cooktop but after learning all the complications about 220V and 120V I decided to buy an American-made cooktop instead.
Smalltree, You may want to make sure that they have 220 wired to the cooktop. I've seen a lot of new construction where they are hooking the cooktops up to 120V and wondering why they're not working. Check this first and post back..Catriver.
Smalltree, your unit should be set up for 220V. You can eliminate your ciruitry for any problems by checking the power at the terminal block of the cooktop. Where the power hooks up you have 3 terminals on the terminal block. From the center terminal to each end terminal you should have 120V. Across each end terminal you should have 240V. You should be on a 40 amp breaker as these units can consume 9700 watts. If your power is correct, warranty service #2 may be correct in his diagnosis. Catriver...post back
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Thank you for your post, wilma jones!
I understand that the door on your Frigidaire range is not unlocking. I see that you have attempted several troubleshooting steps and the door is still locked. From what you have described it sounds like a possible faulty door switch or wiring harness. I would recommend having a professional technician out to properly diagnosis your range this will help to avoid any unnecessary part purchases. Best of luck! -Matt
Thank you for your post, friend!
I located that on Electrolux Cooktop error codes "35" and "75" stand for input voltage too low. It could be an issue with your filter board or an issue within the voltages. I would recommend having a professional come out to your cooktop to properly diagnose to avoid any unnecessary part purchases. -Matt
Hello arab125 - I understand that the timer and clock works fine, however from what you have described it sounds like the range could possibly have a wiring failure, faulty sensor, or an issue with the EOC. I would suggest contacting a professional to move forward accurately.
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Catriver:
I used to have the Frigidaire model RBF139CE, on its user's manual page#15, under 'Voltage is incorrect' problem solving paragragh, it stated "Be sure appliance is property connected to 240 volt elctric supply". Since I never had any wiring related problem with the old cooktop, I could safely assume that the house wiring had adequately accomodated the cooktop's voltage requirement which should be >= 220V. You may ask then why I wanted to replace the older model. Because I was told that the replacement parts for some broken control knobs were obselete, I had no choice but to move onto a newer model.
I noticed that the wall and sorrounding cabinets were warm to touch after the bew cooktop being turned on for a few minutes. That could be the trigger of the smoke alarm perhaps?
I am no electrician, so this question could be very naive. I know Frigidaire is an European brand, wouldn't the manufacturer convert the voltage to fit US requirement if the US uses 110V for most? Also hypothetically if the mismatched voltage was the culprit, how would this situation be handled between the innocent consumer and the manufacturer?
Frigidaire customer support was not much help other than delaying the issue resolution. I am at the end of the rope so to speak, so any advice and suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
Smalltree
Catriver:
IT is getting a bit technical here. Are you suggesting that I need to lift up the cooktop to get to the power terminal? I have no tools to check the voltage and don't know how to check the breaker amps level.
If the warranty service contractor did the repair, wouldn't you assume that they would have checked all that out especially they are the contracted warranty service.
Anyways, the warranty service contractor replaced the power supply board and all heat do come on, my main concern is the safety since it consistently triggers the smoke detector alarm.
Can you come out under the cooktop's warranty and provides 2nd opinion?? THanks, Smalltree
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