With the door open, the light stays on, but the oven stays off. If you close the door the light goes out but the oven starts cooking. You can then program it to cook anything, press start and everything works fine. When the cooking stops the light goes out but it keeps cooking!!!
SOURCE: Over the range microwave
I have the R-1460 in the same series with the identical symptoms. After reading MicrowaveSvc's solution I started taking apart to view the door switches and found the upper door switch to be the problem, but not a switch failure a support failure. A small bottom plastic support post that holds the switch in place was broken (probably from repeated use/abuse) allowing the switch to move when the door hooks were engaged, thus not actuating the button switch. Since the problem was mechanical rather than an electrical bad switch, I made a small support arm for the switch from an old plastic mechanical pencil and glued it in place to hold the switch in its correct position. Problem solved, microwave works! Thanks to MicrowaveSvc's description of door switches.
SOURCE: GE Profile Spacemaker 2.0 Microwave
If
it goes dead or blows the breaker or GFI when you plug it in or open or close
the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch
mount.
Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside. Its continuity must be checked.
Door
switch or mount trouble can be caused by slamming the door or by
opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.
There
are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches
and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.
The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.
Sometimes
it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate
just out of position. Other times, it's a broken tab on the switch
holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab
can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.
If
you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical
information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and
our link is at our listing here on FixYa:.
You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.
There may also
be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or
hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when
troubleshooting & testing.
We're happy to help you and we'd appreciate your
thoughtful rating of our answer.
SOURCE: GE microwave Turnable turns on opening the door
Thanks for the photo of the label!
It shows the FCC ID number, which I used to find schematics at the FCC Web site.
The problem is a shorted primary interlock switch.
This is the door switch which has two black wires connected to one terminal and a black and a blue wire connected to the other
terminal.
See these files for help:
http://www.microwavedisplay.com/safety.txt
http://www.microwavedisplay.com/disassembly.txt
http://www.microwavedisplay.com/doorsw.txt
You can usually find
helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full
model number here.
If a switch is all you
need, we offer a universal type for only $5 postpaid which you can
order here.
We're
happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your
thoughtful rating of our answer.
SOURCE: Microwave Oven Does Not Start Cooking
This
is usually caused by either a bad door switch or a loose door switch
mount, which are pretty simple problems to fix.
Even though a door
switch clicks, it may still be bad inside.
Door switch
or mount trouble is usually caused by slamming the door or by opening
the
door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.
There are
plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and
onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.
The screws on these
mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be
activated properly.
Sometimes it's
a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just
out of position. This tab
can be hard to see, since it is under the
bottom edge of the switch.
One test that sometimes
helps is to
gently lift up (and/or push down) on the door or handle as you try to
start it. If it works or tries to work, then it's a door switch mount
or
door alignment issue.
If you or someone you
know decide to look
into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door
switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on
FixYa:.
You can find helpful
exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model
number here.
There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control
panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very
helpful when troubleshooting & testing.
If you don't find yours, or if you want to look at it without disassembling the oven, you can download it here.
If yours is not shown at the parts site or manual site linked above, Please reply back with your brand and model number so we can help you.
If you only need a
switch, you can order a universal type here for $5 postpaid.
If you think the problem
is on the control panel, we repair these nationwide by mail
for $39.95 postpaid in most cases in about a week or so.
We're
happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful
rating of our answer.
SOURCE: GE spacemaker Profile XL1800 vent fan will not shut off
It may be a bad door switch, a loose door switch mount, or a problem on the control panel, such as a sticky relay.
I would suspect a sticky relay first, but the door switches should be checked.
If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, linked here on Fixya: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
If you need your control panel assembly (smart board) repaired, we do that for $39.95 nationwide.
You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383
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