Question about Kenmore 66222 Microwave Oven
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The most likely causes are a bad door switch, a loose connector on the magnetron, or a bad magnetron. If you or a friend decide to work on it, we have *critical* safety and disassembly info at our site, which is linked at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk Here's a reprint of one of our FAQS on the subject: Q. My microwave seems to be running okay, but it won't heat. A. If you are a do-it-yourselfer with the right equipment and care, you can do quite a bit of troubleshooting, but once you get near the high voltage section, it is time to be VERY sure of your actions. DANGER: Microwaves produce lethal voltages. They can kill. Before you go any further, you should read the safety warnings here: http://188.8.131.52/mwd/safety.txt If you find line voltage (100-125 VAC) on the primary of the high-voltage transformer while the oven is running, the problem is indeed in the high voltage section. If that line voltage is not present, then the problem is not in the high voltage section. Door switches would be one suspect, as well as a control panel problem. To check door swithces, see this file: http://www.microwavedisplay.com/doorsw.txt If you have or suspect control panel problems, see details of the repair service here: http://184.108.40.206/mwd/index.htm There are a few prime suspects to be aware of in the high-voltage section, mainly the high-voltage rectifier diode, the magnetron, and the high-voltage transformer. DIODE: Did the oven pop during the cooking cycle? If so, that's pretty good evidence that the diode has gone bad, not that's not the only way it can fail. High-voltage rectifier ID & diagnosis can be found here: http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/diode.html MAGNETRON: Sometimes everything looks and seems okay, but the magnetron is simply not producing heat. At other times, it may be arcing inside, and producing a noise that sounds something like someone growling into a coffee mug. It's also possible that the mag may have a cracked magnet. Check for that, too. More likely, it may be that the magnetron filament connectors have loosened (they should be snug) and, due to resistive heat, the terminal connections have deteriorated and burned loose to some degree. A photo showing that area can be found here: http://220.127.116.11/mwd/magterm.jpg . Here are some tips if you have loose connections: If the connectors feel loose, and any burning or melting seems minor, you should be able to carefully tighten the connectors with a pair of pliers, then sand or file the rusty-looking terminals of the magnetron until they are clean and shiny. If the burning is more serious, the connectors may need to be replaced. They can be obtained from home improvement centers and auto parts stores. They are 1/4" connectors and can be squeezed in place onto stripped wire with proper crimpers or a pair of pliers. Another option is to cut the connectors off the wires and solder the wires directly to the magnetron terminals. If this is done, do not apply heat to the terminals any longer than necessary. If the burning is really bad, the plastic surrounding the magnetron terminals is charred or melted, the magnetron may need to be replaced. HIGH-VOLTAGE TRANSFORMER: When the voltage transformer fails, it will often emit heat and smoke, but with the fan running, you might not smell it. With the cover off, it may be easier to smell. Also, you can look at the windings and see if they look discolored due to heat. If a high-voltage transformer is shorting, it can blow the fuse a few seconds after pressing the start button to start a cooking cycle. High-voltage transformer ID & diagnosis can be found here: http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/xformer.html HIGH-VOLTAGE CAPACITOR: The high-voltage capacitor will usually fail by shorting. When it does, the fuse will be blown right after you press the start button to begin a cooking cycle. If the capacitor is old and dries out, then it can fail by just not allowing the high-voltage to be doubled. I don't remember having ever seen this condition. High-voltage capacitor ID & diagnosis can be found here: http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/cap_test.html More information on the high-voltage circuit can be found here: http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/doubler.html Again, be safe!
Posted on Feb 25, 2007
This is usually caused by either a bad door switch, a loose door switch mount, or a problem on the control panel.
Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside.
Door switches are most often damaged by opening the door while it's cooking (instead of pressing Stop / Clear first) or food
/ grease debris in the switch.
If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, linked here on Fixya: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
It's also possible there may be a problem on the circuit board, which we repair nationwide.
Posted on Nov 05, 2007
It appears your magnetron or MCU has failed in this instance.
For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...
FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.
PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.
If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.
Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.
If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question
Posted on Sep 30, 2010
If the fuse were blown, You wouldn't even get a display. If you're handy with a multi-meter, and feel somewhat comfortable making electrical tests, the first thing to check is whether the problem is coming from the low voltage (control) side of the oven, or the high voltage side (transformer, magnetron, capacitor and diode).
Unplug the oven and remove the cabinet cover. Before reaching into the chassis, discharge the capacitor by shorting between the two sides with a screwdriver or similar tool. It can store up to about 2000 volts, and can hurt you badly. A brief touch with your shorting tool is all that's necessary.
Disconnect the wire lead that goes from the power transformer (the largest component on your oven's right side (as you face the door), to the capacitor. Insulate it against any metal contact by wrapping electrical tape around the connector.
Set your meter to test for house voltage (the 200VAC range). Plug the machine in and select a cooking cycle. While it's trying to cook, place your meter's leads on the wires coming from the control board to the primary terminals on the transformer. You're looking for a reading that's reasonably close to 120VAC. If you don't get enough voltage, the problem is with the control board. If you do get the required voltage, the problem is in one of the high voltage components.
Write back with your results for further diagnosis.
Posted on Dec 24, 2010
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