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I WAS ABLE TO REMOVE THERMOSTAT QUITE EASILY AND CHECKED IT WITH A CONTINUITY TESTER AND IT SHOWED BAD. I RECEIVED ONE INA DAY AND IT IS NOE WORKING. tHANKS.I WAS ABLE TO REMOVE THERMOSTAT QUITE EASILY AND CHECKED IT WITH A CONTINUITY TESTER AND IT SHOWED BAD. I RECEIVED ONE INA DAY AND IT IS NOE WORKING. tHANKS.
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When a microwave is dead, the most common causes are a blown fuse, or a blown thermostat / thermal cutout / TCO on the magnetron or on top of the oven cavity.
You can find helpful
exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model
number here.
Accessing the oven cavity thermostat for testing and possible
replacement will require you to remove the oven from the wall and take
off the outer cover.
If
so, the installation instructions are very handy, and it's best to have
two people since the microwave can be heavy and awkward.
You can
download Jenn-Air (Whirlpool) owner's manuals and installation
instructions here.
We're
happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of
our answer.
It may be a blown fuse, magnetron thermostat, or oven cavity thermostat.
There
should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit
behind the
control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is
very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.
Also at
our Web site, we have a video
available showing how to remove a typical
over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.
Once the grille and controller are removed, you can access and test the fuse and magnetron thermostat.
Accessing the oven cavity thermostat for testing and possible
replacement will require you to remove the oven from the wall and take
off the outer cover.
If
so, the installation instructions are very handy, and it's best to have
two people since the microwave can be heavy and awkward.
You can
download GE
owner's manuals and installation instructions
here.
You can find
helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full
model number from the tag on the oven here.
We're
happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful
rating of our answer.
The following is pulled directly from this forum, where someone ran into a similar problem. I hope this is helpful:
Electrical circuit interruption between L1 and Neutral in the microwave inverter circuit.
Possible reasons: 1. Check door, hinge and cavity front alignment and adjust as needed. 2. Check the operation of all interlock switches. 3. Check over temperature protector for the magnatron. 4. Check all Cavity Thermostats for closed circuit. 5. Unplug the oven for at least 40 seconds. If this solves the problem A. Check the Cooling Fan for proper operation or blockage B. Check the resistance of the magnetron thermostat. It should be 0 Ohms, replace if necessary. 6. Check that the control cable to the 1100 watt inverter is properly connected to plug P2 on the display PCB & Adjust or Reconnect 7. If interlock switches operate correctly, replace 1100W inverter. 8. If problem persists, replace control assembly.
It
may be the fuse, which is usually located behind the
grille, on
the
floor of the oven behind the control panel, between the door switches,
or on the filter board near where the cord comes into the unit.
If
the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO)
/ thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body
of the oven.
If the cavity thermostat
needs to be checked or replaced you'll need to pull the oven from the
wall.
If
so, the installation instructions are very handy, and it's best to have
two people since the microwave can be heavy and awkward. You can download Maytag
owner's manuals and installation instructions here. There
should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit
behind the
control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is
very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating
components.
At
our Web site, we have a video
available showing how to remove a typical
over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.
You can find
helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full
model number here.
We're
happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your
thoughtful rating of our answer.
You need to change the cavity thermostat. The unit got too hot and blew the cavity thermostat. If this is a vent-a-hood model, it will be up under the vent housing at the top (must drop microwave to change) and if built-in, it will be on the left side under the outer cover. Just remove the screws from the back and sides and right along the edge along the bottom sides. Will have 2 wires going to it from each side. Just replace thermostat and reattach molex plugs. Then retest. Should be fine after that.
there are several possible causes, check voltage at outlet
check the 20 amp bus fuse on the main board ohm out the cavity thermostat, replace the bad part
There is a fuse and cavity thermal fuses as well as one on the magnatron that is supposed to reset itself.. The fuse is behind the control panel and the cavity fuses will require removal of the cabinet. Did you check for power at the plug? Eric
It's not good to run ANY microwave with the oven cavity empty. The items you place inside to cook or heat up act as a "load" and help to absorb/dissipate some of the RF energy. Your microwave has several thermstats installed that will blow in an overtemp condition. If you're lucky the Magnetron is still intact and only a thermostat has failed. The thermostats are small cylindrical devices mounted near the magentron and the oven cavity. They act as fuses and must be reset if blown. Go to geappliances.com and select "Parts & Accessories". Go the bottom of the next page and type in your model number. On the Search menu page select the second menu and type in "thermostat". There will be a series of thermostats listed with helpful drawings on where to locate them. I would advise you to check these drawings first and see if you can locate the thermstats to determine if they are bad. The thermostat should read a short (or very low resistance) if it is good. The part numbers are as follows:
Some additional advice: Make sure you unplug the microwave before servicing. If you are not savvy when it comes to electronics, or have never worked on a microwave before, it may not be adviseable to work on this yourself. Voltage potentials inside the High Voltage section of a microwave oven (where the Magentron is located) can be dangerous. There is a large capacitor that can store a charge and can be a shock hazard.
I hope this isn't discouraging to you, I just wanted to make you aware of some of the possible hazards associated with this appliance. I hope you find information helpful, and let me know if you need further assistance.
PS The alternative if all the thermostats are good, would be to check and/or replace the magnetron. (Item 73, Part #WB27X10305 at $115.00)
If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.
If it has a hood thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.
If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
William E. Miller, AS-EET [email protected] http://www.microwavedisplay.com
It's probably an open thermostat or thermal cutout on or near the magnetron, or possibly the one on top of the cavity / body of the oven.
Once the thermal cutout is replaced and it's alive again, you may then find the magnetron is bad, too, and it runs but won't heat.
If you or a friend decide to work on it, we have *critical* safety, disassembly, and troubleshooting info at our site, which is linked at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383
I WAS ABLE TO REMOVE THERMOSTAT QUITE EASILY AND CHECKED IT WITH A CONTINUITY TESTER AND IT SHOWED BAD. I RECEIVED ONE INA DAY AND IT IS NOE WORKING. tHANKS.
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