You can either GOOGLE THE MODEL NUMBER WITH SERVICE MANUAL or contact Samsung to see if available.
SOURCE: we have samsung 50 inch plasma tv, we have only half a screen
I have a Phillips 50 inch Plasma. About two months out of warranty the top half of the screen would go black. Sometimes when we tapped on the back behind the upper right hand corner the picture would return. I did some research online and found that there is a Main Y sustain board (much like a mother board in a computer) and connected to that board is a upper Y Buffer board and a Lower Y buffer board. According to my research these boards seem to be the source of the problem. I am assuming that the upper buffer controls the top half of my screen and the lower controls the bottom. I removed the back of my TV (about 50 small screws) and searched for these parts by part number. Surprisingly all of the parts in my Phillips are made by Samsung. I found the parts on ebay at shopjimmy.com. I decided to try replacing the upper Y buffer first. I ordered it from shopjimmy for about 100.00. When I received the part I started to remove my upper Y buffer and realized that the new part was slightly different. The part number was the same but the REV. number was slightly different. The new part was missing a small white connector that connects the upper buffer to the lower buffer. I sent it back for an exchange for the right part with no problem. Ok so here is the interesting piece of this little adventure. When I started to remove my upper Y buffer I removed the screws and started to pull on it to loosen it. When I noticed that I had the wrong part I pushed it back into place and put the screws back . My TV has worked perfectly since I did that, with my original part. It has only been about two months, but if you are in the same situation it might be worth a try.
SOURCE: 50" Samsung Plasma with black screen
I had the same problem and had the TV serviced and found that the y board was blown $350 total. The repair guy explained that the board has a hot transister underneath that slowly leaked onto the board, but says that they can not get Samsung to admit to the problem. Works fine now but only have a 90 day warrenty on the parts.
SOURCE: 2 horizontal blue lines on samsung 50 plasma tv
Possibly could be the Y buffers --if the are next to each other could be a bad connection on a ribbon cable ---you need to call for service
SOURCE: I have a Samsung 50" Plasma,clicks on and off.
http://www.coit.uncc.edu/coit_new/techsupport/Plasma_Documentation_files/PPM50H3QX_EDC%20D62B.pdf
Above is your service and repair manual for your set.
www.scribd.com/.../SONY-KDL42XBR950-TV-Plasma-Training-Manual
above is a Plasma TV trianing manual, Shows you how they work, nost info is translatable between sets.
www.scribd.com/.../LG-TV-Plasma-Training-Manual - 3 hours ago
Same above another training manual.
Hi, well I applaud you for wanting to have a go, but you must make sure that you are starting in the right place, That is The Power Supply, as, if, that isn't right nothing else can be. But you simply cannot do anything without a Service Manual. In this it has everything one needs to repair the set. OK if it is shutting down, after that amount of time, of working and then faulting, then it is most definitely a "Thermal" problem, the way we "Find" problems such as this is "Freeze Spray" you use this on each component that is suspected of being the "Culprit" and you will soon,find that errant component. Now also not every fault is a Capacitor, I see many, many people that think, that Capacitors are always the "Culprit" now while that may be true in a few cases, a faulty Electrolytic Cap, or ordinary, Cap goes faulty, this is only a SYMPTOM, something has damaged those caps causing them to "Fail". One MUST always find the root "Cause", otherwise if you just treat, the SYMPTOM, the "Cause" will just make the "Symptom" come back, in short order, as the prime cause still, hasn't been fixed., Now Capacitors hate AC ripple, or Over Voltage. That’s it. Oh.. and Heat, if these Capacitors, are too close to a Heat Source, then that’s a prime cause of failure. Resistors, hardly ever go faulty, and if they do, it is generally obvious. However it doesn't hurt to check values with our Multimeter. Remember though resistors are made, with up to 20% tolerance from stated value, as such, are not too critical, unless in Timing circuits etc. Always check, the Values, of resistors, as with any other component, with the power OFF. Now Diodes especially "Zener Diode", are another thing to check, those and ordinary "Signal Diode" should always be suspect. next we have Transistors and IC's. The Transistors MUST ALL be checked to see if they have a good, "Junction" this is done, with our meter set to "Diode Test" and usually are about 0.6 to 0.7. With IC's you must check, voltage levels, or Logic Levels, going in and out, have a look at the circuit diagram, and it will tell you what they should be. It is a good idea to always measure the Power Supply voltages, see if a "Rail" is Low, that will be because some component has gone somewhat or all short circuit, to Earth, now, if the "Rail" is Higher, suspect an "Open Circuit" component, like a Diode, or Transistor. The voltages expressed in the manual are spot on, ANY variation MUST be investigated. I have been doing all this for over 30 years now, and I do indeed wish, we could have a set of "Symptoms" and be able to say.. "Oh that’s the so-in-so and replace this" however unfortunately this although does happen, most "Symptoms" can have literally tens, of "Causes" all often "Interlinked" One simply has to do a methodical troubleshooting procedure, and always think, "are my Voltages Correct" as this is how, you Fix the problem, by making them so. Keep up the good work. If that link above doesn't furnish, a Service manual, it is imperative you get one, even if you must pay for it. It will pay for itself in about 2 mins.
The Tools you will need are A SERVICE MANUAL a Good Multimeter, a Signal generator, a Signal Tracer, pref an Oscilloscope, Soldering Iron, De-soldering iron, Probably, too, A SMT Hot Air desolderer (for the Surface Mount IC's), Compressed Air, An Anti-Static Wrist Strap, (MOST IMPORTANT, to prevent ESD), Cutters, Screwdrivers, sometimes, Torx, drivers too. Tweezers, are real handy, a magnifying glass, or eyepiece, a good strong white Light. OH, and you MUST have the original remote control too, (Sometimes one must obtain, purchase, a special “Servicing remote”) as one needs this to "Program" the Computer in the TV, after, and during servicing, and to be able to put the TV, into "Service Mode" too.
When servicing try not to let the entire thing overwhelm you as one, treat the set as a conjunction of “Units”. Meaning that we can break the unit up into sections, for instance we have a Power Supply, and Audio section, a Remote Control section, we have a Input Control section, we have a Video Control section, and so on. Now all these connect to specific parts of the circuit. Some have no relationship with each other and some are dependent upon each other. What we need to do is try to understand our “Fault” and isolate it to at least an “Area”. Now when we have isolated the apparent problem, we then need to check our “Input” to that section and also the “Output” of that section, also we must first check that sections supply voltage and current, are correct. Depending on the unit being serviced, the Repair options, may be limited to changing a “Board” to clear the fault. Often these boards are exchangeable, and you get a rebate back, if when you purchase the new board, you send them you old broken board, and they then repair that, and around it goes. Other times, one must go down to “Board level” to effect a repair, always double check, before determining some component is faulty, it is best to isolate/remove, the component to test, often an “in situ” test can give erroneous reading due to “Other” components connected, altering the readings. Always replace with as good if not better components that you are replacing, skimping of component costs is counterproductive, in the long run.
It can often be a great troubleshooting method, to completely isolate the “Faulty” part of the circuit, if you can, isolate the in & out, and also remove, the “Native” power from, it too. You power from and external source, then also you can provide an External “Drive” to this circuit which you will NOW, be able to test under a, “know good” situation, which is so important to gain a benchmark for operation.
NEVER EVER simply replace a Board or Component without ascertaining WHY, it has failed, as seldom does anything spontaneously fail, unless placed under stress at all operating times, such as a power Supply or the like.
SOURCE: need to find the ceramic fuse for my samsung 50"
Hello Dyan, Hi you can find one at any electrical or electronics shop that sells spare parts, But mind you the reason why the fuse blows in the first place, have the power supply board checked for shorts such as a shorted switching regulator. If in the event the replacement fuse blows again, there is definitely a shorted part. Have this checked by a technician.
98 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×