8x32 swat scope

Spotting Scope is a type of telescope typically used for observing wild animals and birds. A spotting scope features more magnification than a conventional binocular but less than an astronomical telescope.
The utility of a spotting scope becomes most obvious when the identification of an animal going in a large herd is required. Figuring out a specific animal from other look-alike animals becomes easy with such a device. For digiscoping purposes, few things can beat the power of spotting scopes. It is possible by using binoculars or telescopes to take a closer look at birds or other animals, but if you want a precise view of your target animal, a spotting scope is preferable.
Spotting Scope Features Explained

• Objective lens
  Objective lens, also known as the Front lens, determines the image quality at higher magnifications. The diameter of this lens ranges from 50-100mm in size. It is also called "Aperture" of the lens. It is wise to buy the highest size of the objective lens considering its weight. Larger lenses allow to pass more light and create more bright images. This means you will get higher image quality with the larger lenses.
• Lens Coating
  Manufactures often apply the chemical coating, which is known as Lens Coating, on the lens to reduce noise and increase light transmission. They also offer "fully coated," "multi-coated" and "fully multi-coated" lens to improve image quality. The premium quality spotting scopes' lenses are multi-coated with multiple layers on the surface.
• Focusing
  There are two types of focusing mechanism in the spotting scopes such as Helical and Knob focusers. The focusing characteristics determine how quickly you can focus on the object with maximum precision. Between these two options, the helical focuser is the finest option for birding as it can change magnification rapidly along with the movement of the bird. For hunting or spotting slower animals, Knob focuser is best as it gives you more precise information than the former one.
• Eye relief
  The eyepiece remains at a little distance from the users' eyes. This distance is called the eye relief where the light rays transmitted from the object pass to enter into your pupil. The comfortable eye relief distance is about 15mm to see the full field view. This feature is very important for those who wear eyeglasses. Nowadays, manufacturers are offering long eye relief for those who need to wear eyeglasses for convenient viewing.
• Image Quality
  You might have seen some designation on the glass label of the spotting scope such ED glass, APO glass, HD glass, Fluorite glass. These special qualities of glass will cost you more but create a huge difference in image quality comparing low-quality lenses. Remember, you must pay for the good quality images when it comes to buying any types of optical instruments.
• Magnification
  The magnification of spotting scope is higher than standard binoculars and varies between 15x to 75x. The power of the eyepiece determines the magnification of the scope. The important fact you should know that image quality drops off as the magnification goes up. Even premium quality scopes also lose a little quality at the highest magnification.

The condition of the atmosphere has effects on birding, hunting and digiscoping too. Humidity, ever-moving air, dry climates, dust and so on hinders the magnification and image quality at large.

Scopes with fully multi-coated internal glass-to-air surfaces (lenses) are recommended as they allow the highest level of light transmission through the binoculars (90 - 95% of the light that enters the binoculars will reach the eye) with limited internal light scattering and reflectivity. This results in fully multi-coated binoculars, spotting scopes and rifle scopes producing brighter, sharper and higher contrast images than coated or multi-coated binoculars. Unfortunately, fully multi-coated optics are more expensive to manufacture and are often only incorporated into higher-end binoculars, so your choice may depend on budget.

Bushnell Trophy Xtreme Spotting Scope

Overview
Bushnell Spotting Scope has extra power for extra range; its BaK-4 Porro-prism design delivers magnificent clarity in a traditional design. The multicoated optics ensure maximum light transmission for the brightest and take the images more colorful and clear. If you are searching Bushnell Scope that can be used for different activities, you should consider Bushnell Trophy Xtreme Spotting Scope Review.
The highly refractive BAK4 Porro prisms diminish spherical deviations for increased edge-to-edge sharpness and help progress depth of view. This combination of optics and coatings creates a spotting scope that produces clear, bright, highly contrasted images with the exact color transmission.
The rubber-armor structure stands up to demanding use. This scope is 100% waterproof and fog proof for wet hunting conditions. It also Comprises compact tripod with window mount, compact soft case, and waterproof hard case.
Specifications

• Brand:Bushnell
• Viewing Configuration:Straight
• Magnification:16-48X
• Power Variability:Variable
• Objective Diameter:50 mm
• Close Focus Distance:25 feet
• Length:13 inches
• Weight:31.4 ounces
• Field of View:125-60 feet/1000 yards
• Eye Relief/Exit Pupil:16 mm/ 3.1-1 mm
• Optics Coatings:Fully Multi-Coated
• Glass:BaK-4
• Focus System:Focus Knob/Single Focus

Feature Analysis

• Porro Prism Lens
  Though many optics producers keep on trying to transform roof prism lens, Porro prism lenses are more affordable and light-efficient. These Porro prism lenses can display images with better contrast than roof prism variations. This is how Bushnell Spotting Scope is more reliable and affordable for its high-quality performance.
• 20-60×65 Zoom Magnification
  The wide range of magnification allows user flexibility for long-range view finding. You can observe details with 65x zoom for long range objects. But, you can still enjoy an increased field of view with 20x zoom. This is used when separating the areas for closer zoom viewing later on.
• 65x Lens Light-Gathering Capability
  This advanced magnification lenses can light gather at long distances. The Bushnell Trophy 20-60x 65mm Waterproof Spotting Scope resolves this issue by designing 65x zoom lens in a way that brings 17% more light than most high-zoom lenses.
  If you fully read Bushnell Trophy Xtreme Spotting Scope Review, it will support you how to setting zoom for longer distances images.
• Waterproof Construction
  When you go out in nature, this waterproof construction anticipates you about rain or even snow. It is pretty obvious that any liquid that leaks into your scope will detract from the overall image. But many people do not consider the effects of concentration on the inside of the lens.
  This spotting scope is actually water and fog proof not only for outside moisture but also prevents lens fogging from risky temperatures.
• Fully Multi-Coated Optics
  The multi-coated lenses prevent any reflections in the glass that can delay your view. The sunlight at certain angles can cause reflections from water or wet surfaces that prevent the clear view of the images. That is why; Bushnell uses multi-coated lenses to remove any kind of reflection.
• Well-designed Equipment
  The tripod often needs to hide from animals, and the scope cases also need to protect their insides from both jostling and the outside elements. The Bushnell Trophy XLT comes with both a hard-side case and a soft side case. The hard side case protects you from outside damage and a soft-side case protect you from a bumpy road when you are riding.

Can't find a manual. This is a 76mm reflector on a Alt/AZ mount.
1. During the day, put in the 20mm eyepiece and point to a object around 100 yards away.
2. Focus on the object
3. Align the finder to the object in the eyepiece
4, Set up at night, give the scope time to reach outside temperature
5. Point scope with finder at the moon. (More than half full will be too bright)
6 Use the lowest power eyepiece (highest number) and focus on the moon.
7. You may now use higher power eyepieces to observe.
8. Pointing the scope usually involves loosing 2 knobs to move the scope in up/down and side to side motion. There may be slow motion controls to adjust the scope as objects in the sky move.

New telescope users are taken by surprise at the difficulty of just pointing the telescope in the right direction to see anything. The field of view is quite limited, especially if you are using a high power eyepiece. The higher the power of eyepiece on a telescope, the dimmer the image, the more difficult to aim it at any chosen object, and the more difficult to focus. When the scope is not focussed, even if there are stars in the field of view, they will only be faint blurs.

It is best when you are starting out with a telescope to try it with the least powerful eyepiece (the one with the highest number) to begin with, until you become more familiar with how it works. Do NOT use the Barlow lens if one came with the scope.

The finder scope is meant to help you get the main scope lined up on the object you want to view, but it won't be any use in pointing the telescope until you adjust it to precisely line up with the main scope. Telescope manuals recommend that you do this in daylight, by pointing the scope at an object on the horizon and adjusting the finder to match (never point a telescope toward the Sun!). Once you have a tree or mountain peak in the center of the main scope's image, you can then adjust the screws around the finder scope to get the crosshairs (or red dot) centered on the same object. It is very difficult to do this job in the dark, especially as objects in the sky are constantly on the move.

You will find that there is a very wide range of movement in the focus mechanism, because different eyepieces focus at different points, but the actual focus range for any eyepiece will be a small part of the overall range afforded by the focusing mount. It is much easier to familiarise yourself with this in daylight.

At this point you will learn that astronomical telescopes usually show an upside down image. There is a good reason for this- erecting the image needs more bits of glass in the light path, which reduces the amount of light and increases aberrations. Even if this is only slight, astronomers prefer to avoid it, and they don't really care which way up the Moon or Jupiter appear. It is possible to fit an erecting prism or eyepiece to most astronomical telescopes, and some of them come with one, but one wouldn't bother to do this with the small finder scope.

Once you have done the above, you can try the scope at night, on an easy to find bright object like the Moon. Looking at random stars will probably be disappointing, as they don't look different under magnification. You will have to find planets, star clusters or nebula to see anything interesting. You will also find the the object you are looking at swims out of the viewing field, and you must continually move the scope to follow it. This will be more pronounced at higher magnifications. Again, use the least powerful eyepiece. Small scopes are often advertised as having unrealistic powers (300, 500) which can never be practically achieved. You just get dim blurs.

There is an excellent website for beginner telescope users at THIS LINK

I suggest that you try the telescope first in daylight (NOT pointed at or near the Sun), using the least powerful eyepiece (the one with the largest number). Try it on objects on the horizon, remembering that they will appear upside down. This is a good time to get the accessory viewfinder scope lined up with the main scope, too. It is unlikely that the finder scope will be much use in pointing the telescope until you adjust it to precisely line up with the main scope.

When you have become familiar with the low power eyepiece, try a higher power, which will focus at a different point (and be harder to find objects with). Then try it out at night, on a bright, easily found object like the moon.

The higher the power of eyepiece on a telescope, the dimmer the image, the more difficult to aim it at any chosen object, and the more difficult to focus. Do not use the Barlow lens if one came with the scope. There is a very wide range of movement in the focus mechanism, because different eyepieces focus at different points, but the actual focus range for any eyepiece will be a small part of the overall range afforded by the focusing mount. You will also find the the object you are looking at swims out of the viewing field, and you must continually move the scope to follow it. This will be more pronounced at higher magnifications.

Hi Joe, I'm Mark.
The small scope on top of your big scope is called the "finder" scope. Probably 2X or 4X. It should have cross hairs in the view. Find the moon with it. It will also require focusing but since the moon is bright, you can get an idea where it is in the lens by that.
Next. Find the LOWEST power eyepiece to insert into the lens holder. And rotate the focus knob.
Hopefully, you will see some bright blurry thing and then you can focus on it.
After you get it in focus, put on a more powerful lens and look at the craters on the moon.
Note: You will need to adjust your telescope to the earth's rotation. Your scope should have
instructions for accomplishing this.
Hope this helps,
Best, Mark

Sounds like it is severely unfocussed. Finding the focus point on an astronomical telescope is often difficult until you have had experience with it, as the range of adjustment is very long to accommodate eyepieces of different focal lengths.

I suggest that you try the telescope first in daylight (NOT pointed at or near the Sun), using the least powerful eyepiece (the one with the largest number). Try it on objects on the horizon, remembering that they will appear upside down. This is a good time to get the accessory viewfinder scope lined up with the main scope, too. When you have become familiar with the low power eyepiece, try a higher power, which will focus at a different point (and be harder to find objects with). Then try it out at night, on a bright easily found object like the moon.

They are for sighting in the rifle only.I know on TV the shooter reaches up and turns a knob.BOGUS! after sighting in the rifle, always replace the little caps because the scope is not sealed unless the caps are on.without the caps, moisture can penetrate the scope and fog the lenses.Good Luck

Well, it Barska says it's .50 cal proofed, whatever that means. One would presume it could take 30 magnum recoil then.

On the other hand, Barska is a low end quality manufacturer. You cannot expect durability in a low end scope. Of course, you could get lucky.

Unless you're target shooting at an immovable object, 10x - 40x is much more power than you'll ever be able to use. You're much, much better off considering a 4x - 16, for instance, in a higher end scope line than this scope.

Consider that at 40x the exit pupil would only be 1.25 which would make even the highest quality scopes quite dim. Barska won't have be best glass in the world and so would probably be unusable beyond some level like 18x unless in very favorable conditions anyway.

The problem with heavy recoilers and scopes is that the heavier the scope the more likely it is to take damage due to recoil. It's because it hangs out there on those high scope rings, and is heavy.