What bolts do i tighten on the steering? Went to a tire shop and they said that it is loose.

Sure, I can help you with that. Here are a few things you can check to see why the steering column on your Grasshopper Junior golf buggy is not staying vertical: Make sure that the locating bolt at the base of the column is tightened all the way. Check for any loose or damaged components in the steering column assembly. Make sure that the steering wheel is properly aligned. If you have checked all of these things and the steering column is still not staying vertical, you may need to take the buggy to a qualified mechanic for further diagnosis and repair. Here are the steps on how to tighten the locating bolt at the base of the steering column on a Grasshopper Junior golf buggy: Locate the locating bolt at the base of the steering column. Use a wrench to tighten the locating bolt clockwise until it is snug. Do not overtighten the locating bolt, as you may strip the threads. Test the steering column to make sure that it is staying vertical. If you have tightened the locating bolt all the way and the steering column is still not staying vertical, you may need to check for any loose or damaged components in the steering column assembly. Here are some of the components you can check: Steering column shaft Steering column bearing Steering column joint Steering wheel If you find any loose or damaged components, you will need to replace them before the steering column will stay vertical. If you have checked all of the components in the steering column assembly and they are not loose or damaged, you may need to make sure that the steering wheel is properly aligned. Here are the steps on how to align the steering wheel on a Grasshopper Junior golf buggy: Locate the steering wheel adjustment screws. Turn the steering wheel adjustment screws clockwise or counterclockwise until the steering wheel is centered. Tighten the steering wheel adjustment screws to secure the steering wheel in place. If you have aligned the steering wheel and the steering column is still not staying vertical, you may need to take the buggy to a qualified mechanic for further diagnosis and repair.

if shaft housing loose remove drivers side panel under coulem tighten 2 .14mm nuts on metal bracket held on coulem housing by 4 13mm bolts if tilt is loose take to shop must have spec tools to remove steering wheel an lock

The most likely cause is that the front tires are out of balance. This can happen gradually over time or from potholes etc.


Take the car to a tire shop which also does suspension work and wheel alignments, and ask them, while the car is hoisted up, to check for excess steering looseness and front suspension wear. If they report any, ask to see it.


The usual way, if you wish to check this yourself, is to jack up a front wheel, and while someone else holds the steering wheel steady, grab the tire at 3 and 9 o'clock and shake it firmly in and out. A little looseness is OK, but a lot will indicate worn tie rod ends, or steering rack joints or mountings.


Then grab the tire at 6 and 12 o'clock and repeat. Excess looseness here will usually indicate a worn lower ball joint, upper strut mount, or loose bolts in the front suspension.


Any of the above is possible in a 96 model.

The Tire may become wobbaly if it has not been tighten down properly or if some of the bolts that hold it on have become lose or broken.

I would suggest you jack the car up just enough to take most of the weight off the tire but not all the way up. You want to be able to tighten the bolts down without the tire spinning on you but still be able to get the bolt to tighten the Rim (Tire) down all the way.

Check all the bolts to be sure they are not broken. If they are broken you will need to replace them. If the bolts are ok then tighten them down but be sure to start at the top one. Then tighten the opposite bolt, never the one beside the one you just finished but always the opposite bolt. Tightening the opposite bolts until all the bolts are tight will allow your Tire (Rim) to be tightened evenly and should stop the wobble.

Another thing to look for is a loose hub cap giving just the apperance of a wobbely tire but it is just a lose hub cap.

If you have driven through a pot hole or over a curb recently then you may have damaged the Rim the tire sit on or the tire itself and that would mean the tire or rim would have to be replaced.

Lastly you may have a worn out ball joint. In this case it would need to be replaced by a shop as it is very difficult to do if you do not have the correct tools.

Hello ggagne.
Here is the procedure.

1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle.
2. Remove the left tire and wheel assembly.
3. Remove the pinch bolt from the lower intermediate steering shaft
4. Loosen all insulator clamp attaching bolts.
5. Place a jack stand under the center of the rear frame cross member.
6. Remove the rear frame-to-body bolts.
7. Lower the rear of the frame just enough to gain access to the stabilizer shaft.
8. Remove the insulator clamp bolts and the clamps from the frame.
9. Remove the insulators from the stabilizer bar.
10. Remove the stabilizer bar links from the control arms.
11. Pull the stabilizer shaft rearward.

Installation

1. Insert the stabilizer shaft to the left side of the vehicle. Important: DO NOT tighten the stabilizer link nut at this time. The weight of the vehicle must be supported by the control arms such that you can obtain the vehicle design trim heights before tightening the link nut.
2. Loosely install the stabilizer shaft link at the control arm.
3. Install the insulators on to the stabilizer bar.
4. Connect the insulator clamps to the frame.
• Tighten the stabilizer shaft bracket bolts to 48 Nm (35 ft. lbs.) .
5. Raise the frame into position while you guide the steering shaft onto the gear.
6. Install the new frame-to-body attaching bolts.
7. Remove the jack stand.
8. Install the pinch bolt and tighten.
9. Install the left tire and wheel assembly.
10. Lower the vehicle.
11. Support the weight of the vehicle by the control arms.
12. Tighten the stabilizer link nut.
• Tighten the stabilizer shaft link nut to 23 Nm (17 ft. lbs.)
  

There you are, I hope your job goes well.
Thank you for using FixYa.

KL

Power Steering Gear
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle, allowing the front suspension to hang
   freely.
   
2. Remove both front tire and wheel assemblies.
   CAUTION
   Failure to disconnect the intermediate shaft
   from the rack and pinion stub shaft can result in damage to the steering gear
   and/or intermediate shaft. This damage may cause a loss of steering control and
   possibly, personal injury.
   NOTE: The wheels of the vehicle must be straight ahead and the
   steering column in the LOCK position before disconnecting the steering column or
   intermediate shaft from the steering gear. Failure to do so will cause the SIR
   coil assembly to become uncentered, which will damage the coil.
   
   
   
   
3. If equipped, move the intermediate shaft cover upward, then unfasten the
   intermediate shaft-to-stub shaft pinch bolt.
   
4. Using a suitable puller, separate both tie rod ends from the steering
   knuckles.
   
5. Position a suitable drain pan under the power steering fluid lines. Remove
   the power steering fluid line retainer, then disconnect the outlet and inlet
   hoses from the steering gear. Allow the fluid to drain, then plug the lines to
   avoid contaminating the system.
   
   
   
   
   
   Fig. 1: Power steering fluid line routing - non-supercharged
   engine shown
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   Fig. 2: Power steering gear inlet hose orientation -
   non-supercharged engines
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   Fig. 3: Power steering hose routing and orientation -
   supercharged engine shown
   
   
   
   
   
6. Remove the steering gear assembly-to-chassis mounting bolts.
   
7. Support the body with suitable jackstands to allow for the lowering of the
   frame.
   
8. Loosen the front frame mounting bolts.
   
9. Remove the rear frame bolts, then lower the rear of the frame about 3 inches
   (76mm).
   WARNING
   Do not lower the frame too far, or you could
   damage the engine components nearest the cowl.
   
   
   
10. Remove the steering gear assembly by maneuvering it through the left wheel
    well opening.
    
    
    
    
    
    Fig. 4: Power steering gear mounting, with retainer tightening
    sequence and specifications
    
    
    To install:
    
    
11. Install the rack and pinion assembly into the vehicle, maneuvering it
    through the left wheel well opening.
    
12. Raise the rear of the frame, then install the frame bolts and tighten to 76
    ft. lbs. (103 Nm).
    
13. Install the rack and pinion assembly-to-chassis bolts. Tighten the rack
    mounting bolts to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm).
    
14. Remove the jackstands.
    
15. Apply Loctite® thread locking kit 1052624, or equivalent thread locking
    compound to the steering gear mounting bolts.
    
16. Install the steering gear mounting bolts, and washers, then tighten the
    retainers to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm) in the sequence shown in the accompanying
    figure.
    
17. Unplug and attach the power steering gear outlet and inlet hoses, then
    tighten the fittings to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
    
18. Install the power steering fluid line retainer.
    
19. Connect the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Tighten the nuts to 35
    ft. lbs. (47 Nm). Install a new cotter pin. Tighten the nut up to an additional
    1?6 turn,
    or to 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm) to align the cotter pin slot. Do not loosen the nut to
    install the cotter pin.
    
20. Install the intermediate shaft-to-stub shaft pinch bolt and tighten to 35
    ft. lbs. (47 Nm). If equipped, move the intermediate shaft cover upward into
    position.
    
21. Install both front tire and wheel assemblies, then carefully lower the
    vehicle.
    
22. Refill the power steering pump reservoir, then bleed the power steering
    system and check for leaks.
    
23. Take the vehicle to a reputable repair shop and have the front end alignment
    checked and adjusted as necessary.

1) Take car to non dealer shops willing to give FREE opinion

2) Not likely you have a shock in Driver Front wheel, more likely a strut. Not likely strut needs to be replaced, but strut has a STRUT MOUNT (3 bolts of which can be seen when opening your hood) below this it is connected to STRUT BEARING which below it connects to UPPER SEAT OF STRUT or SPRING INSULATOR, that if loose will rattle. Usually, shops will not tighten, because to tighten is same labor as replace the parts. (Since you already dropped $1000 on ToyotaDealer, ask them to tighten FOR FREE since rattle is still there.)

3) There is a part called a "link," connects strut to stablizer bar, that if bushings are bad will rattle.
4) If stabilizer bar bushing(s) bad, will rattle early on but eventually clunking
5) Bad ball joint or tie rod can rattle as well

Never permit any shop to do expensive work on your car w/o first getting a second opinion somewhere else first. Do not tell second shop that you are there for a second opinion.

Shaking steering wheel at highway speed, no braking
1) Bad tire in front, bad tires in front, verify inflation of tires
2) Wheel alignment may be out
3) Front suspension parts (mentioned several above)

Highway speed to suddenly braking shakes steering wheel
1) Front brake rotors need to be inspected for warping
2) Test calipers on empty road at 40 mph, going straight on very LEVEL ROAD, hit brake pedal SOMEWHAT hard while barely touching steering wheel. If car jerks to one side, instead of braking straight on, you may have a caliper, ABS, or brake fluid pressure regulator off.
3) If brake rotors are warped, may as well replace front brake pads at same moment. Use ceramic.
4) When you drive on VERY LEVEL road on highway, steering wheel must be centered, let go lightly of steering wheel. Did car stay in middle of lane? No? Get a 4-wheel alignment.

You must remove the steering cowl below the steering wheel and see what is loose, broken or worn. It more likely to be a loose bolt, in which case just tighten it and refit the cowl.
Hope that helps

Unless your entire rack is loose, there's nothing you can tighten, but it sounds like you have a wheel problem, more than a steering problem. It's either out of balance or the rim is bent. Try putting your spare tire on that one, and see if the problem persists. Even if your steering is out of whack completely, it won't cause a vibration... just bad steering.

you have a bad belt in the front tires have them checked and balanced and make sure you don't have a bent rim...please rate the solution