Screw top stuck

After you shut the water off, unscrew the canister, remove old filter and check it against new filter. (They should be the same) check fo arrows (if there are any point in upward position) insert and screw canister back on, fasten securely, turn water back on.

Umm, there are 4 screws, sometimes a #3 Philips, or a t25 Torx, you will need along handle as there are 4 screws and two are down in there deep. carefully lift the top portion to replace the filter, and then screw it back down.

take the top off the header tank ( part you fill the water in) top to the top run engine until it boils or fan kicks in to cool down the engine. while it is heating up squeeze the pipes around the engine to help release the air better DONT put your hands near any moving parts. keep the water full to the top while doing this. when at temp turn off engine and leave to cool down dont add any water or do anything till it has cooled down. when cooled down top up to the mark and should be good then if not then the thermostat may be faulty. or you have a blockage some were in the system that is causing the over boiling problem also check that the fan is working and the temp switch for the fan is working all these can make the engine over heat, also when bleeding the system have the heater on number one and heat on full.

The sensor sounds like the MAF (mass air flow) and if it is ... you need it! The car will run without it ... but then it should trigger an OBDll code after awhile .... so depending on where you live ... you will not pass a smog test ... if you are in certain USA states

This is definitely one of those "easy when you know how" things. No screws or plates or anything to remove. It is a case of getting the old one out and slipping in the new part:

The part clips in so you need to unclip the old (broken) one to get it out.

You need a small flat head screw driver to unclip the old one. You come into the opening via the UNDERSIDE of the vac as in pic one. You will release it and pull the old part out via the top side.


Below is a pic of the removed (broken) part. The arrows show the two round nipple like ends and these are what you need to release using the screw driving (and then pulling the part out the top).



Once you have the old part out the new one is slid in via the TOP of vacuum and clicks into place

This next pic gives you an idea of what you are trying to achieve.
The RED arrows are the new part in place. The YELLOW arrow shows what the "two round nipples" click into.



Sorry the pics are not better.

Tony Bowling

There is a screw on the bottom. That has to be loosened completely and then the front panel pulls off to the left. When you put it back it has to engage exactly or the screw won't screw back in.

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I tried that solution and it did not work due to the worn bushing. I went on line to CSH incorporated and ordered #534 Open Ventilation Fan & Blower Duty motor. The motor is a ball bearing motor rather than bushing, and is an exact replacement for the Fasco motor on the original. The repair is easy and a cheap repair at cost of about $67 dollars for the motor plus shipping. The unit now works great again.
Robert

My Orek was making such a bad noise that my wife was going to sell it at a garage sale, I'm glad she didn't. It takes about 20 minutes to fix. All you need is a phillips screw driver, can of compressed air (or air compressor) and a can of silicone spray.
Pull out the filters and turn the unit upside down. Using a phillips screw driver unscrew the 9 screws holding the bottom to the top. remove the bottom. Use care as to not damage the fan. The fan will stay attached to the motor , pull on it and use a good cleaner like 409, Simple Green or a similar product. Wash clean and dry. Next get out your air compressor and clean everywhere, see the silver bearing holders on the side of the motor? Get out your can of silicone spray and give a good squirt on both bearing (close to the shaft. also spin the motor with your hands. See the large thing attached to the shaft? Those are the windings. See the metal housing the winding spin close to? Spray the silicon in there, a good amount. Make sure you didn't get any silicone on the end of the motor shaft where the fan sits on. If you did get some nail polish remover or acetone and wipe clean a few times. Then reassemble.
My Orek was horribly noisy, now it's quiet. My wife says is beeter than new.....

When mine gets stuck I stick the handle of a fork or spoon into the hole where the water comes out and use that to unscrew it. Works like a charm every time.