Mistakenly activated oven cleaning cycle. Opened door prior to 15-sec lock release. Lock released while door was open. Now, can't close oven door or operate oven bcuz range is waiting to begin cycle. Showing dr error (door open). Need to find way to unlock oven so I can close door and cancel clean cycle.
Was going to clean the oven, changed my mind, pressed cancel, and now the oven door is "locked" open. Was going to clean the oven, changed my mind, pressed cancel, and now the oven door is "locked" open.
I started the cleaning cycle and a door warning light came on along with a beeping chime I opened the door and the cleaning cycle stopped but the ''locked light stays on and the door will not shut now.Can anyone help?I started the cleaning cycle and a door warning light came on along with a beeping chime I opened the door and the cleaning cycle stopped but the ''locked light stays on and the door will not shut now.Can anyone help?
AnonymousNov 22, 2008
I have the same problem. I have not found a solution yet. Did you?I have the same problem. I have not found a solution yet. Did you?
Dr code showing..door won't close light wont go out and its beeping.
Anybody know what to do?
Dr code showing..door won't close light wont go out and its beeping.
Anybody know what to do?
AnonymousDec 06, 2008
I have this same problem please helpI have this same problem please help
AnonymousJan 25, 2009
OK I have the answer it is so simple my husband did it-which kills me even worse BUT it worked and I can cook again- that even works in his favor.
On the left hand side of the stove ........(not door) there is a metal post with a plastic top (it looks like what a pointed metal Q-tip would like like). Here the FIX IT PART- Press AND Hold- you will hear a mechanical noise- which is the metal lock moving out of the way. The Lock button will flashing and the DR will go away.
YEAH BRUCIE!!!!!!OK I have the answer it is so simple my husband did it-which kills me even worse BUT it worked and I can cook again- that even works in his favor.
On the left hand side of the stove ........(not door) there is a metal post with a plastic top (it looks like what a pointed metal Q-tip would like like). Here the FIX IT PART- Press AND Hold- you will hear a mechanical noise- which is the metal lock moving out of the way. The Lock button will flashing and the DR will go away.
Thanks a million, solved the problem like a charm. For those that can't find it, it is on the left side orf the OVEN, not the stove. Once you open the door, you'll find it on the frame's upper left side corner, can't miss it. Good luck
I was able to close my oven door by unscrewing the locking mechanism just inside the oven door. But now I don't think I should run the clean cycle and am not sure about operating oven at all.
I followed your advise and it worked!!! unscrewing the locking was the only way, thanks for your help!I followed your advise and it worked!!! unscrewing the locking was the only way, thanks for your help!
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Awesome, it worked. On my Frigidaire, the easiest way to describe the button/ metal post is that is the sensor button that tells your oven the door is shut. It is located on the face plate of the oven itself, not the door, right under the over-hang of the stove top.
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I understand you have a Vking oven that is not unlocking after stopping (interupting) a self clean cycle, correct ? (I think the letters in the model should be "DSOE" as opposed to deso, aren't they ?)
Though this can cause issue's with the lock mechanism, it is unlikely anything was damaged...in my opinion of course, thus I don't think you need to start swapping parts.
If this hasn't already been done, I would suggest prepairing your oven as if everything was status quo for a self clean cycle.
Close the door, select self clean and let it go through it's start-up and lock sequence. Your going to stop it again, just as Viking instructs pressing "off" which should allow the lock mechanism to properly lock and then unlock.
During the clean cycle the unit usually has to cool before allowing for the door to open which can take up to 30 minutes, (this is why it counts down from 4 hrs even though the cycle is 3.5 hours) but since it should already be cool I'm hoping the lock will go a full revolution to it's normal position.
Normally these ovens will go through a self check sequence upon a power up (if power was lost and then restored...aka "onboard watchdog") which should include the lock assembly rotating to it's unlock position, but they can get out of sequence at times in my experience.
The other method I've tried and had success with is having a secone person hold the door switch closed while power is turned off and then restored a few minutes later.
Let me know if you have tried that and if not try it and get back to me. Hopefully that will restore it's proper function. Good luck.
First make sure that you wait long enough before you try. If it has not cooled completely it will not release the lock from the lock position. Sometimes if you cycle the power to your oven off and then on again you can reset the oven and the switch may relax, but in your case you may have to lightly pry the latch assembly to the open position. Turn off the breaker to your oven for a good minute or two before reapplying the power again.
If this fails to work then check your manual for instructions or to get a factory service number. They should be able to give you the information you need to open your oven.
The oven door lock needs approximately 1 hour to cool down before the oven door can be opened after a self cleaning cycle has finished. If the lock does not open after the oven has cooled down, you can try....1) Unplugging the range or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. Plug the range back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and try moving the door lock lever or opening the door. 2) Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever or opening the door. Most ranges today use 3 different types of door locks...one is a solenoid controlled lock ( you hear a loud buzz noise when setting or unlocking the lock and has a arm that you must move to set the lock )...another is a heat sensitive lock ( has a arm that you must move to lock and un-lock, makes no noises and has a spring that slowly moves to lock the door will the oven is heating up )...Some locks are motorized ( no handle to move, the motor locks the door by it's self when you set the range for self clean )... If the motorized and heat sensitive locks fails to open after the self clean cycle, you must access the lock and move it yourself to open the door. On the free standing ranges, most times you must lift the cook top to access the lock mechanism. On built in ovens, the oven must be pulled out to remove the top access panel to get at the lock mechanism. Some build in ovens can have the control console removed to access the lock system. On the heat sensitive style of lock, there are no electrical parts to operate the lock, usually you will need to replace the lock. On the motorized style of lock, you will have to use a ohm/volt meter to test why the motor will not work. On the solenoid style of lock, the solenoid is often mounted on the back of the range and can be accessed by removing the rear panel, some may be mounted at the front, such as in a built in oven. The failure of the solenoid style of lock is normally caused by a bad lock solenoid. In order to get your door open, you must operate the door latch mechanism manually. Unplug or remove power from the range. Take the rear cover off the range. Locate the door latch assembly and operate it manually and open your door. Then check continuity of the solenoid. Some of the latch assemblies have micro switches to supply power also. You may need to check them. You should be able to get the door open and use your range until you can get a tech to repair if you can not repair yourself.
If you've interrupted the clean cycle or have accidentally set the clean cycle with the oven door open, the latch may have engaged and now the door can't be closed because it will hit the latch. There may be a door activated* switch on the front face of the oven. In this case you may need to manually press that door switch with your finger while at the same time canceling the clean cycle to get the latch to retract so the door can close fully again.
The oven door lock needs approximately 1 hour to cool down before the oven door can be opened after a self cleaning cycle has finished. If the lock does not open after the oven has cooled down, you can try....1) Unplugging the range or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. Plug the range back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and try moving the door lock lever or opening the door. 2) Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever or opening the door. Most ranges today use 3 different types of door locks...one is a solenoid controlled lock ( you hear a loud buzz noise when setting or unlocking the lock and has a arm that you must move to set the lock )...another is a heat sensitive lock ( has a arm that you must move to lock and un-lock, makes no noises and has a spring that slowly moves to lock the door will the oven is heating up )...Some locks are motorized ( no handle to move, the motor locks the door by it's self when you set the range for self clean )... If the motorized and heat sensitive locks fails to open after the self clean cycle, you must access the lock and move it yourself to open the door. On the free standing ranges, most times you must lift the cook top to access the lock mechanism. On built in ovens, the oven must be pulled out to remove the top access panel to get at the lock mechanism. Some build in ovens can have the control console removed to access the lock system. On the heat sensitive style of lock, there are no electrical parts to operate the lock, usually you will need to replace the lock. On the motorized style of lock, you will have to use a ohm/volt meter to test why the motor will not work. On the solenoid style of lock, the solenoid is often mounted on the back of the range and can be accessed by removing the rear panel, some may be mounted at the front, such as in a built in oven. The failure of the solenoid style of lock is normally caused by a bad lock solenoid. In order to get your door open, you must operate the door latch mechanism manually. Unplug or remove power from the range. Take the rear cover off the range. Locate the door latch assembly and operate it manually and open your door. Then check continuity of the solenoid. Some of the latch assemblies have micro switches to supply power also. You may need to check them. You should be able to get the door open and use your range until you can get a tech to repair if you can not repair yourself.
If you've interrupted the clean cycle or have accidentally set the clean cycle with the oven door open, the latch may have engaged and now the door can't be closed because it will hit the latch. There may be a door activated* switch on the front face of the oven. In this case you may need to manually press that door switch with your finger while at the same time canceling the clean cycle to get the latch to retract so the door can close fully again.
The oven door lock needs approximately 1 hour to cool down before the oven door can be opened after a self cleaning cycle has finished. If the lock does not open after the oven has cooled down, you can try....1) Unplugging the range or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. Plug the range back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and try moving the door lock lever or opening the door. 2) Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever or opening the door. Most ranges today use 3 different types of door locks...one is a solenoid controlled lock ( you hear a loud buzz noise when setting or unlocking the lock and has a arm that you must move to set the lock )...another is a heat sensitive lock ( has a arm that you must move to lock and un-lock, makes no noises and has a spring that slowly moves to lock the door will the oven is heating up )...Some locks are motorized ( no handle to move, the motor locks the door by it's self when you set the range for self clean )... If the motorized and heat sensitive locks fails to open after the self clean cycle, you must access the lock and move it yourself to open the door. On the free standing ranges, most times you must lift the cook top to access the lock mechanism. On built in ovens, the oven must be pulled out to remove the top access panel to get at the lock mechanism. Some build in ovens can have the control console removed to access the lock system. On the heat sensitive style of lock, there are no electrical parts to operate the lock, usually you will need to replace the lock. On the motorized style of lock, you will have to use a ohm/volt meter to test why the motor will not work. On the solenoid style of lock, the solenoid is often mounted on the back of the range and can be accessed by removing the rear panel, some may be mounted at the front, such as in a built in oven. The failure of the solenoid style of lock is normally caused by a bad lock solenoid. In order to get your door open, you must operate the door latch mechanism manually. Unplug or remove power from the range. Take the rear cover off the range. Locate the door latch assembly and operate it manually and open your door. Then check continuity of the solenoid. Some of the latch assemblies have micro switches to supply power also. You may need to check them. You should be able to get the door open and use your range until you can get a tech to repair if you can not repair yourself.
If you've interrupted the clean cycle or have accidentally set the clean cycle with the oven door open, the latch may have engaged and now the door can't be closed because it will hit the latch. There may be a door activated* switch on the front face of the oven. In this case you may need to manually press that door switch with your finger while at the same time canceling the clean cycle to get the latch to retract so the door can close fully again.
The oven door lock needs approximately 1 hour to cool down before the oven door can be opened after a self cleaning cycle has finished. If the lock does not open after the oven has cooled down, you can try....1) Unplugging the range or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. Plug the range back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and try moving the door lock lever or opening the door. 2) Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever or opening the door. Most ranges today use 3 different types of door locks...one is a solenoid controlled lock ( you hear a loud buzz noise when setting or unlocking the lock and has a arm that you must move to set the lock )...another is a heat sensitive lock ( has a arm that you must move to lock and un-lock, makes no noises and has a spring that slowly moves to lock the door will the oven is heating up )...Some locks are motorized ( no handle to move, the motor locks the door by it's self when you set the range for self clean )... If the motorized and heat sensitive locks fails to open after the self clean cycle, you must access the lock and move it yourself to open the door. On the free standing ranges, most times you must lift the cook top to access the lock mechanism. On built in ovens, the oven must be pulled out to remove the top access panel to get at the lock mechanism. Some build in ovens can have the control console removed to access the lock system. On the heat sensitive style of lock, there are no electrical parts to operate the lock, usually you will need to replace the lock. On the motorized style of lock, you will have to use a ohm/volt meter to test why the motor will not work. On the solenoid style of lock, the solenoid is often mounted on the back of the range and can be accessed by removing the rear panel, some may be mounted at the front, such as in a built in oven. The failure of the solenoid style of lock is normally caused by a bad lock solenoid. In order to get your door open, you must operate the door latch mechanism manually. Unplug or remove power from the range. Take the rear cover off the range. Locate the door latch assembly and operate it manually and open your door. Then check continuity of the solenoid. Some of the latch assemblies have micro switches to supply power also. You may need to check them. You should be able to get the door open and use your range until you can get a tech to repair if you can not repair yourself.
If you've interrupted the clean cycle or have accidentally set the clean cycle with the oven door open, the latch may have engaged and now the door can't be closed because it will hit the latch. There may be a door activated* switch on the front face of the oven. In this case you may need to manually press that door switch with your finger while at the same time canceling the clean cycle to get the latch to retract so the door can close fully again.
Was going to clean the oven, changed my mind, pressed cancel, and now the oven door is "locked" open.
I started the cleaning cycle and a door warning light came on along with a beeping chime I opened the door and the cleaning cycle stopped but the ''locked light stays on and the door will not shut now.Can anyone help?
I have the same problem. I have not found a solution yet. Did you?
Dr code showing..door won't close light wont go out and its beeping.
Anybody know what to do?
I have this same problem please help
OK I have the answer it is so simple my husband did it-which kills me even worse BUT it worked and I can cook again- that even works in his favor.
On the left hand side of the stove ........(not door) there is a metal post with a plastic top (it looks like what a pointed metal Q-tip would like like). Here the FIX IT PART- Press AND Hold- you will hear a mechanical noise- which is the metal lock moving out of the way. The Lock button will flashing and the DR will go away.
YEAH BRUCIE!!!!!!
whats the solution--nothing stated in anything above??!
it says lock and i can't open the oven
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