I have a Kenmore elite microwave 721.80833 that shuts shuts off while cooking. Getting worse. Sometimes cooks for a minute sometime for just a few seconds. Seems like the door latch may not be engaging the mechanism that says the door is closed? The power stays on; just stops cooking as though the door were opened and closed. Anyone having this problem?
Check the door switches if one is bad it may think the door is being opened and stop the unit from running. If it is from a bad connection it will get worse as it gets hotter while running.
SOURCE: Model 721.80803400 microwave blank control panel
there is a transformer on front pc board.might need tech to have a looksee
SOURCE: Model 721.80803400 microwave blank control panel
How old? Probably better to buy a new one instead.
SOURCE: Steams
It could be a problem with your cooling fan or hood fan not venting the cavity enough.
To help you most effectively, it's better to post your full actual model number. But I'll give you the general info for now.
If this is a countertop model, you should feel strong air flow coming out from the back.
If it's an over the range model, you should hear the internal fan blowing when you hit Start and see the steam moving around while it's heating.
If the fan is not blowing and air is not blowing or if the next system is not working or blocked, you will get more steam than usual and the magnetron will likely end up being damaged.
Some steam buildup inside is normal, but not too much. It's kind of subjective, but it's dependent to a lagre degree on that air flow.
Most newer models don't have any gaskets to worry about, but older models may have deteriorated gaskets which limit the air flow.
Please write back with more details if you need further help.
We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer once we pose a final solution.
SOURCE: Vibrating noise when cooking
In order to try to set your mind at ease I will have to explain the Basics on how a Microwave Oven Functions.
When a Microwave Oven is set to COOK ...START. It cooks at 100%. There is no lowering of the heat as with a Range ( Cook Top) Control. So in order to do the other things such as DEFROST, WARM, or anything other than 100% COOK. A COOK ON- COOK OFF system was utilized. To DEFROST, the Microve COOKS at 100% for 30% of the TIME, then IDLES for 70% of the TIME. COOK ON 30% of the TIME, COOK OFF 70% of the TIME = DEFROST This is why you can hear the CYCLE. More power is required during the ON CYCLE, thus the lower vibration. The Vibration occurs when the High Voltage Transformer is turned ON ( COOK ON).
The VIBRATION seems to have got louder with age. This is somewhat normal as there is a vibration from the High Voltage Transformer present every time the Microwave is used. screws and other metal parts seem to get loose with this vibration. There is no solution, unless you can tighten EVERY screw, nut, and bolt in the unit.
Sorry!
SOURCE: Microwave won't function.
This
is usually caused by either a bad door switch, a loose door switch
mount (which are pretty simple problems to fix) or
occasionally a
problem on the control panel.
Even though a door
switch clicks, it may still be bad inside.
Door switch
or mount trouble is usually caused by slamming the door or by opening
the
door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.
There are
plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and
onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.
The screws on these
mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be
activated properly.
Sometimes it's
a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just
out of position. This tab
can be hard to see, since it is under the
bottom edge of the switch.
If you or someone you
know decide to look
into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door
switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on
FixYa:.
Also see http://www.microwavedisplay.com/doorsw.txt
You can usually find
exploded views and order parts by entering your model number at the Sears
parts site.
A full Sears/Kenmore
model number has 3 digits, a dot, then 8 more digits, such as
###.########
There
may also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control
panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very
helpful when troubleshooting & testing.
If you only need a
switch, you can order a universal type here for $5 postpaid.
If you think the problem
is on the control panel, we repair these nationwide by mail
for $39.95 postpaid in most cases.
We're
happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful
rating of our answer.
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