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if it has hit a object, the flywleel key is partially sheared, and needs to be replaced. they are very inexpensive,CHEAP. this will through the engine out of time just enough it wont start.
My Whirlpool washer model WFC7500VW1 will not start--the green Start button keeps blinking and the red Door Locked button keeps blinking. I do not get any error codes.
You don't continue to drive any vehicle that overheats or you will ruin the engine
The Air Conditioner won't come on if the engine overheats, the computer will keep it off, to keep down the load on the engine & thus more heat load
Are the cooling fans coming on? Coolant at the correct level in overflow bottle? When cold you also have to remove the radiator or system fill cap to check the coolant there also.
If you have white smoke coming out the exhaust you may have a bad head gasket
You could have a worn timing belt & it jumped a couple teeth,that is part of your preventative maintenance, you should know when things were done & have a log book
try cleaning under the needle plate & in bobbin area for loose threads or lint try using a new needle--make sure the needle is inserted correctly in the needle holder try rethreading the machine top & bobbin if you try all these suggestions & the machine still won't pick up the bobbin thread then it's possible that the machine is out of time & would have to be retimed at a sewing machine shop
have you tried changing the needle? if it's a new needle is it inserted correctly---flat side to the back of the machine---needle push up in inside the needle holder
have you tried cleaning under the needle plate & in the bobbin area for lint or loose threads?
have you checked the bobbin to make sure it's not warped
have you checked the bobbin is inserted correctly?
if you've already tried these things then the last thing that possible is the machine is out of time & needs to be serviced by a repair shop that have the correct tool to time it
Basically you cannot break you woofer with too powerful amp, but you can break it using too weak amp. This is because if you don't have enough watts going to you woofer the cones movement isn't controlled properly. I'm usually using +20% to the woofers RMS and peak power. This will also make the amp last longer because you won't use it at it's peak performance all the time. If possible use manufacturer whose prising policy matches your woofers manufacturers, that way you won't end up with "2000w peak power" cheap amp with real output of 30w. and in the other end cheap woofer won't handle expensive amp with real 600w rms so well, you need to find a midlle way here. Hard to say without knowing the make and model of the woofer.
This is a taste question for some people, and I haven't build a system to match so powerful woofer ever in my life. But I'm pretty sure you won't go wrong with this one.
Try a couple of things: 1. Turn on the projector & cycle it in "Reverse" 3 or 4 times (without the tray). Do the levers that move the tray move correctly? If so, do you have another tray you can try? If another tray works correctly, follow Step #2. 2. The 140-Tray has to be in the "zero" position for the tray to seat on the projector. Check to make sure the Locking Ring (the ring is in the center of the tray & keeps the slides from coming out) is TIGHT on the top of the tray. Once checked, turn the tray upside-down. Refer to Page 8 in your owners' manual (if you don't have one, I've made an image of the page, below). You have to make sure the plate on the bottom of the tray is lined up at the notch at shown.
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